6 replies to this topic

[Searay Jim]

I'm finding 2-3 aftermarket front wheel hub's that are $30 to $50 less than OEM. Anyone have any experience with them, or have any feedback on quality?

[Searay Jim]

I'm finding 2-3 aftermarket front wheel hub's that are $30 to $50 less than OEM.  Anyone have any experience with them, or have any feedback on quality?

From the lack of replies (although it hasn't been that long) I'm assuming not many mess with the AM part. I think I'll order the OEM part tomorrow as well as look for a 10' 3/4 braker bar incase my electric impact can't handle the axle nut!

[98V70BASEBOY]

Hi Jim,

The Volvo hub I took off my 98 V70 was made by FAG. If you can find an OEM also made by the same manufacturer, I would not worry about it. Make sure you spring for the replacement fasteners though.

I would suggest getting a 3/4" breaker bar and the appropriate socket (36mm I believe), as your electric impact wrench will NEVER touch that nut.

The final stage 60 degree angle tightening puts that bugger on real tight.

BB

[Searay Jim]

Hi Jim,

The Volvo hub I took off my 98 V70 was made by FAG.  If you can find an OEM also made by the same manufacturer, I would not worry about it. Make sure you spring for the replacement fasteners though.

I would suggest getting a 3/4" breaker bar and the appropriate socket (36mm I believe), as your electric impact wrench will NEVER touch that nut.

The final stage 60 degree angle tightening puts that bugger on real tight. 

BB

Thanks. I wasn't real confident in the electric impact saving the day. It's only 240 ftlb or something around that. Good news is I have time to do it. We picked up a new car for my wife so the Volvo has now become an extra car.

One nice thing about doing the work myself, I can justify buying new tools I may not have (or don't have anymore). Otherwise, I'm just not god enough as selling the idea! Dealer wanted $510 to do this. $155 for the part delivered and I have a little room for new toys, I mean new tools.

[Searay Jim]

Well I finally got a chance to get this done. Thanks to Bay 13's instructions is was as close to a breeze as it could have been.

I'll say, now I know, don't mess with 1/2" stuff. I twisted a 1/2" slider breaker bar like a pretzle. I let the axle nut sit over night in a bath of PB but that and the 5' cheater bar only bent the breaker bar. But you won't believe how I got it off. Hit it with the propane torch! Then hit it wiht the electric impact to shake it up before trying again, and it brike loose! I was happy.

I was really surprised hoe bad the bearing was - expains why it was singing like it was. Now that the left one is done, I can hear the right a little bit. I hate to sell the car knowing it needs to be replaces, especially after seeing/feeling how bad the left was. I may go ahead and do the other one, or get it listed and make sure the buyer knows about it and offer to fix it or let them do it. I kinda had fun so maybe I'll do it.

Something I would add to the Bay 13 instructions for people like me that "read" them and try to follow methodicly so we don't screw them up like we did when we were younger and didn't think instructions were meant for men. Once I broke the axle splines loose in the hub, I didn't realize right away that you ONLY want to break it loose before dropping the control arm THEN slide the axle shaft out. I tapped it loose, them tapped it a few more times as it slide back then stopped. Luckly I stopped right as the splines in the hub started to bite the threads on the axle. Lucky me it was just a nick.

Also, I wasn't sure what to torque the control arm bolts back down to, so I just torqued them down good. Everything else was very straight forward! I printed the instructions, pictures and all, and I bet I could do the next one in an hour, pending everything coming loose like it did today.

[Pauloil]

the torque for the control arm is 65nM plus 120 degrees

[pfeener]

The control arm also has to be in the loaded position when you torque it up. Put a jack under the outer end of the control arm and raise it up until the frame just come clear of the jack stands and then torque it up.