132 replies to this topic

[--Aaron--]

UPDATE: 11/28/10

I'm sorry, I have no idea what happened to the pictures. My Photobucket account has always been in good standings and I am clueless. I'll email them to see if they can shine a light.

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I just wanted to give a heads up to everyone and share personal experience on the matter to hopefully help someone that is about to shell out 450 bucks trouble shooting faulty alternator/battery symptoms.

Here's a quick run down...

For a few months up until last month I was experiencing a low charge.....12.9 w/ no load @ idle and ~12.2 w/ lights and A/C which would fall down to 11.5 to 12.

So about a month ago or so I replaced my alternator w/ a new unit from the dealer. I got a pretty good deal on it locally which still ran ~330 w/ tax and no core charge as I had the old one back to them the same day. Either way though it's still a pretty penny.

After the new alternator all was well for about 2 days until I was doing a long trip in extreme heat w/ the A/C blasting. Symptoms then returned and left me frustrated.

So I had the battery tested and found that because of running on the low charge for months before I started tackling the issue it was now at fault.

Ok, so I got a new Volvo battery and all was well again for about 2 weeks or so.

Currently in cool temperatures and with no load on the charging system it will read a constant 14.2 or so. If I run the A/C and allow heat to build up or do alot of short trips it will dip a little below 13.3. At night with my lights and A/C it will go to roughly 13 even.

Now, under high heat i.e. daytime w/ the A/C running it will fall below 13 w/o my headlights on.

I spoke with the dealer many times about this issue and was advised to examine my positive cables, battery to alternator for abnormal heat/corrosion and battery to fuse box for the same.

The battery to alternator cable appears fine and in normal operating condition as did the battery to fuse box cable.

Well, tonight I was cruising around some threads and researching a bit and I ran across one with pictures and detailed descriptions of previous problems people have had w/ the battery to fuse box cable so I went out with my LED flashlight to take a look.

Sure enough, knowing what I was looking for I found decent corrosion on the fuse box cable shortly before the crimp connector.

Next step will be replacing that cable and I will update accordingly.

Now, I do not think I wasted the 450 on an alternator and battery as both tested bad and weren't doing their jobs BUT I do believe I jumped the gun for sure and should've checked the little things first instead of replacing the most commonly failing parts.

Anyhow, I was just looking to give some insight to everyone and am hoping it helps in some way.

Thanks for reading.

Edited by --Aaron--, 29 November 2010 - 02:24 AM.

[confused_al]

Assuming your drive belt is in good shape, have you checked the serp belt tensioner? It feels like your alternator doesn't get enough drive under the load.

[--Aaron--]

Drive belt is Conti OEM and is ~20K old. When I had it off doing my alternator it was still in pretty good shape. Serpentine belt tensioner also had to be removed for the alternator job at which point I inspected it for weird noises and made sure the pulley was free and operating correctly. There is plenty of tension being applied to the belt.

[Chilled Man]

http://forums.swedes...hread?id=122570

[--Aaron--]

Yeah yeah yeah.

[the gunslinger]

Voltage drop will tell you the condition of the cable and terminals.Corrosion can and will hide.Any reading greater than .1 volt is a sign of wear.If the cable is bad,expect a voltage drop of .8 to 1.2 volts.A voltage drop test is easy to perform.

[MyCarIsRed]

Corrosion buildup on any electrical terminal is a warning sign.

The ground cable from your battery is about the hardest working piece of wire in the car. Everyone adds extra amps and lights and wires off of the positive terminal of the battery, but nobody ever seems to beef up the negative like they should. While you're replacing all the red cables, pony up the few dollars and replace the black ones as well.

[--Aaron--]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Just to note, the only things I've added that draw more power are a V70R amp, 6 disc Volvo changer and 3 gauges.

Would you mind providing a little more information about the voltage drop test? I'm handy and literate with a multi meter so that won't be a problem. I'm just still getting into testing things other than your obvious battery/alternator readings.

Thanks again.

[Modus]

I agree, most people do not upgrade their grounds to support their rather large power accessory cable.
I had some electrical gremlins myself with plated battery terminals. Trying to go nice, nice.
Turns out Lead terminals is the way to go. Cheap easy and the never corrode. Not nice and pretty but they work well.

Upgrade your cables, make sure if you have a large power cable coming off the positive, beef up your chassis negative too.

The stock chassis ground isn't very big. I think it's 6 AWG. For all stock returns.

You can check your Voltage drop by following the cable from where it starts to where it ends.

Here's my current set up. I have sure starts and never have to worry about lost electrons in heat.
BTW my lights don't dim when the bass hits.

[--Aaron--]

Eh, I may upgrade the grounds at some point but once I get this little problem taken care of I'll be happy. I'm not running any abnormal accesories nor do I plan on adding amplifiers, etc.

I ordered a new B+ cable from DW today, 56 bucks plus shipping if anyone was wondering....they do stock them as they are the most common cable to cause these problems.

I'll update later on in the week after I get it installed and tested out.

[--Aaron--]

This is the worst job evar damn it. By far the most annoying thing to have to replace so far. It wouldn't be so bad if the damn B+ cable ran by itself but noooooooooooo it has to run with the other million wires.

I'll have pictures up eventually, old cable is out and is effing fubar'd.

Back out to put the new in.....

[--Aaron--]

Fawk you stupid wires!



Well hello there, your voltage, I has been eating it.





The carnage, I hate life right now.





That is all for now. I has job to finish.

[Dave 54]

Iknew it was going to be a pita,lol.

When you coming over, I needz code reader .

[--Aaron--]

Little more progress.........damn smoke breaks are killing me, literally.

This gromet kicked my ass.



zOMG Batman, we are back into place......shineyyyyyyyyyyy yay!



Cleaning as I go!

[Dave 54]

Man, loading pics and shit ain't getting you here any sooner. Gots to pick the little man up at 1130, walking now to go get the 740 at her work.

[--Aaron--]

Well, here are a few final pictures............proud to say the job is done, minus me cleaning up and feeding my face.

All ran and wire loomed.......minus that one upside down T junction you see the wires at......I'll come up w/ something for there.



Again....about to start reassembling.



OMFG finally coming back together!



And this wraps up this segment of Car vs. Aaron and car wins.





I would like to put a little personal experience into this thread......I made it hoping someone would try this first instead of blowing 450 bucks plus labor if you don't do it yourself. Basically I am just hoping this helps someone.

Just a few short comments.......this is not a hard job, very straight forward, remove cable, reinstall cable. The things that make it tricky are getting the old cable out of the main harness. And I think that having to remove all that crap makes it a little bit of a pain in the butt as well.

But I am done, been up since 2 pm yesterday, worked last night, worked after work, I am now off and going to sleep soon.

If anyone has any questions related to any of my voltage battle please feel free to PM me and I will help where I can. I feel your pain and I know how aggravating of a problem it is.

I will update this thread here and there with progress, not sure about the test drive today....I'm pretty beat.

[Mesoam]

was your battery dying if you let it sit for a weeks period?

[--Aaron--]

Hard to say, I drive it daily........but I can tell you that on cold starts I was reading 14.4 or so and it stayed up there close to that while driving with no load on the electrical system. Shortly after turning my headlights on or A/C it would dip down to 13.2 or so.

I'll know what improvement the cable made on the way to work tonight.

[--Aaron--]

Well, I just wanted to note some first impressions of the car post new B+ Cable, new Volvo alternator and new Volvo battery.

I'm trying not to get too excited until I see it's consistent but so far w/ no load on the battery I am seeing a constant ~14.3.

With my lighting and A/C running I'm seeing a constant ~13.8.

These are considered in spec readings and are what they once were 145K miles ago, I just hope it keeps up.

I did notice some very slight corrosion on one of my battery ground terminals, it was on the one right behind the DS headlight. I will be upgrading my negative battery terminal and grounds very soon to be safe. I will probably go with a quality 4 gauge wire, well.......2 because I will route them just how they are stock. A local store just happens to have Rockford Fosgate 4 AWG wire in blue.

My fog lights are currently not working but I've been told I had one out on the way to IKEA and am thinking I touched the bulbs or they just took a shit.......they are about 2 weeks old and are a cheapo ebay set. I think they ran like 7 bucks shipped.

I'll be double checking this morning and if they're blown going with a quality bulb.......I was thinking PIAA. I'm just not into HIDs.......tried them out and was not fond of the aftermarket appearance. Not to mention they were bright enough to get me into unwanted trouble.

I'll update here and there with consistency reports.

[--Aaron--]

Cheapie fog bulbs are burnt, whew! I thought I was going to have to rip apart that harness again.