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#1 Naughty33W

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 10:18 PM

--- the only thing i did was disconnect the battery

-now the car doesnt idle worth a damn (700rpm) , she'll stall about half the time after starting

-it continues to run poorly in the low rpms for a few minutes and then it'll be BETTER but NOT 100%

-it doesnt seem to matter if the engine is hot or cold it is equally as bad

-low rpms is the real issue but there's some power loss throughout the higher rpms (not very much tho)

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i've tried disconnecting the batt again and there was no improvement , all fluid levels are fine , i have yet to go see what the codes are

it seems like a timing issue but i thought my car automatically adjust timing ?

i'm not losing boost

oh , i dont have my rear O2 hooked up (i run straight dp) but i've been runnin it like that for several months and have disconnected the battery during this time with no issues

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so what the hell did i do and what is wrong ?

i'll have time this weekend to actually try any suggestions you guys have as well as do some of my own poking around

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#2 Naughty33W

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 10:27 PM

btw - it has about 81,500 miles on it

2003 Volvo S60 2.4T --- Favorite VS quote - "28 psi boost spike = ... fu** me lol" - by: 83' Turbo
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#3 Chilled Man

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 10:43 PM

why did you disconnect the batterie in the first place and what were you dicking with ?
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#4 CJones16

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 11:58 PM

Sounds like you are in Limp mode or "Reduced engine power"
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#5 Ihatespeedbumps

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 01:14 AM

 Chilled Man, on 10 September 2009 - 10:43 PM, said:

why did you disconnect the batterie in the first place and what were you dicking with ?

+1. I think there is more to this story.
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Posted 11 September 2009 - 04:13 AM

the car isnt in limp mode , i've been there before and this isnt that

i disconnected the batt to change a headlight bulb - so unless that bulb directly effects performance there isnt anything more to the issue

#7 Ihatespeedbumps

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 11:38 AM

You can try hard resetting the car. Remove the negative battery cable and touch it to the positive terminal for about 1 min.

Are there any codes stored other than the rear o2?
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#8 Crito

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 02:00 PM

The fallacy of false causation: Just because the sun comes up every morning after the rooster crows doesn't prove roosters make the sun rise.

Disconnecting your battery is completely unrelated to whatever problem you're now having.

#9 Crito

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 02:19 PM

Well, technically, it may or may not be related, but other than LTFT (long-term fuel trim) there's really nothing it could have changed.

#10 Crito

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 02:24 PM

And clearing the LTFT wouldn't cause the behavior you describe.

#11 Naughty33W

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:36 AM

it has to be related in some way

could i have blown a sensor when i reconnected the batt. ? do the sensors (O2 and maf for example) have fuses ? it seems like the maf is not reading correctly (that what it seems like symptom wise) , i'm super rich , its very very on and off tho , but still its only at idle

so i guess the question is - "what could be causing a rough / spurting idle and occasional stall on starting ?"

tomorrow (sunday) i'm going to start poking at it and see what happens

"Remove the negative battery cable and touch it to the positive terminal for about 1 min." - what exactly will that do ?

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Engine Build: 16T + Garrett WGA + Mishimoto FMIC + 3" Catless (Meow) TurboBack Exhaust + Tweaked ST 17psi Tune


#12 Naughty33W

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 04:47 PM

 Crito, on 11 September 2009 - 02:19 PM, said:

Well, technically, it may or may not be related, but other than LTFT (long-term fuel trim) there's really nothing it could have changed.

just had a thought in regaurds to the above statement - may or may not be helpful buttttt -

before i disconnected the batt. there was a pretty heavy duty octane booster in the car , i would think that even if the cars recorded fuel readings were reset it would readjust BUTTT could it be now confused by the higher octane ? i haven't put gas in the car sense the issue but i'm going to go do that now just incase

2003 Volvo S60 2.4T --- Favorite VS quote - "28 psi boost spike = ... fu** me lol" - by: 83' Turbo
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Engine Build: 16T + Garrett WGA + Mishimoto FMIC + 3" Catless (Meow) TurboBack Exhaust + Tweaked ST 17psi Tune


#13 Young Burnsy

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 04:52 PM

How many miles have you driven it?

Maybe it is just bad gas?
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View Post96850_R, on 16 August 2009 - 11:23 PM, said:

its some sort of home boy ghetto mesh shit

#14 Naughty33W

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 05:10 PM

dont think it was bad gas - i drove it about 100 miles before the batt. disconnect and about 150 miles after - octane booster the entire time

i JUST put some fresh 91 octane in the car - we'll see if it helps - i have some runnin around today and hopefully if that was the issue it will be 100% by the end of the day - i'll keep you guys posted

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18x8" OZ Wheels in Black , Gutted Interior , Smoked Windows , And Yes ... Hood Pins ...
Engine Build: 16T + Garrett WGA + Mishimoto FMIC + 3" Catless (Meow) TurboBack Exhaust + Tweaked ST 17psi Tune


#15 Naughty33W

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 09:40 PM

FIXED

long story short -

i have a nipple on my custom intake pipe for a intake temp probe , i dont have the probe in but the little blanking thing-a-ma-jig for the nipple had come off , therefor under light load the engine was just sucking unmetered air through the little opening

i capped it off (better then before hahaha) and ran her for a bit and now she's as good as new :D

2003 Volvo S60 2.4T --- Favorite VS quote - "28 psi boost spike = ... fu** me lol" - by: 83' Turbo
18x8" OZ Wheels in Black , Gutted Interior , Smoked Windows , And Yes ... Hood Pins ...
Engine Build: 16T + Garrett WGA + Mishimoto FMIC + 3" Catless (Meow) TurboBack Exhaust + Tweaked ST 17psi Tune


#16 Naughty33W

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 10:01 PM

i think it was the combo of the higher octane gas and that plug - tho i guess they were mostly unrelated to the batt. disconnect lol

2003 Volvo S60 2.4T --- Favorite VS quote - "28 psi boost spike = ... fu** me lol" - by: 83' Turbo
18x8" OZ Wheels in Black , Gutted Interior , Smoked Windows , And Yes ... Hood Pins ...
Engine Build: 16T + Garrett WGA + Mishimoto FMIC + 3" Catless (Meow) TurboBack Exhaust + Tweaked ST 17psi Tune


#17 Mesoam

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 04:53 PM

 Chilled Man, on 10 September 2009 - 10:43 PM, said:

why did you disconnect the batterie in the first place and what were you dicking with ?

hmmmm

 Naughty33W, on 13 September 2009 - 08:36 AM, said:

it has to be related in some way ?

hmmmmmmm

 Naughty33W, on 13 September 2009 - 09:40 PM, said:

FIXED

long story short -

i have a nipple on my custom intake pipe for a intake temp probe , i dont have the probe in but the little blanking thing-a-ma-jig for the nipple had come off , therefor under light load the engine was just sucking unmetered air through the little opening

ahhhhhhhh

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#18 MrWinkey

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 11:28 PM

Sigh again.....
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#19 Bah

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 11:32 PM

Gremlins. They come in pairs.
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#20 MrWinkey

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 11:43 PM

 Bah, on 15 September 2009 - 11:32 PM, said:

Gremlins. They come in pairs.
If your referring to my response....those two gentleman actually are the only ones that made any sense!
;)
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