6 replies to this topic

[Sleazy E]

Hey Guys... I took another crack at my 1980 GT this morning (I was planning on installing new vac lines, injectors, fuel pump, and aux air valve hoses) and I hit a snag after looking at some diagrams and feeling around the bay. (Background info: when I try to start the car, my first cylinder floods and it doesn't crank over).

1) Did 80 GTs come with Vac Amplifiers? I can't find one in mine. It wouldn't surprise me if I needed one as the ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD who owned this car didn't tell me that a lot of parts were taken off.

2) Did 80 GTs come with the charcoal tank? Same issue here -- I can't find the sucker. I think I'll have to replace it because the way the guy rigged the fuel system. It seems he eliminated the charcoal tank, removed the hoses at the back of the throttle body (two ports are open to atmosphere), he plugged the lower (smaller) line at the idle screw (closed off w/ a screw), eliminated the by-pass valve and connected the lower aux air hose directly into the bigger connection on the idle control screw controller (instead of using a t setup and bypass valve). If these parts are necessary, I'll replace them, but I'm not sure what can be rigged and what cannot (this car has never started in the 4 months of my ownership).

-- I'm going off of the following photo and I don't have the the circled valve.





3) For some reason, I have a secondary hole in my air box. I'm confused where this would port to... there's a cut hose. Picture below. (This may be related to question 5)



4) I have a hose coming from the bottom of the throttle body that sticks out and goes to nothing. Is this supposed to connect to the charcoal tank? I'm holding the hose in the picture below.



5) I've noticed on pictures of other B21F engines... or other GT models, the valve cover has another connection in front of the valve cover cap... what is that for? A guy from the net sent me a photo of his setup for reference and I apparently don't have this at all. I think this line connects to the secondary hole in the air box -- is that right?

6) I'm using the following diagram to repair the lines of my solenoid valve -- in my car, the middle port (instead of the first port in diagram) has a vac line going to the top of the sol valve and the first port (instead of the middle port in diagram) has a line going to a t that leads to the port of the distributor. Is the Volvo diagram what I'm supposed to follow? My dad says that both ports draw a vacuum, so it probably doesn't matter. As for the back third line, my car has it connected to a line into the firewall... which from the books I have is correct.



Any help would be great -- thanks!

-Eric :-D

[Three Fat Tigers]

1) no. If it did, it would have been a big honking pump mounted on top of the valve cover.
2) not sure, but if it had a canister, it would have been under the left front fender. Also not sure about the idle bypass valve, my '79 didn't have one, just the aux air valve. Item marked as EGR valve is your frequency valve, part of the lambda-sond system; on some cars, if this isn't making noise (buzzing while cranking), it may not start, not all are like this, no telling which cars would start and which ones would not if that valve is not working.
3) pretty sure this air box port is related to question 5. Unplugged wax hose looks like an AC or PS line.
4) not sure what that is, have you traced the hose to it's other end? Might be the other PS line?
5) that is the crank case vent, a trap would be placed right at the valve cover, with a smaller hose that runs over to the air box, also there would be no PVC oil separator box below intake manifold.
6) solenoid valve, as in for idle bypass? or the charcoal canister? I don't think is should matter as stated, both show vacuum. The line into the firewall is for the HVAC vacuum reservoir which should have a check valve somewhere in the engine compartment.

If you have any backfiring via the intake manifold during cranking, this is a strong indication of an notable intake leak that will require correcting. Otherwise, only one cylinder flooding should not stop the engine from starting on three cylinders.

I would disable the fuel pumps and see if the engine will try to start on starting fluid, it should be very eager to start if all is well. If not check the ignition timing, at least pop off the cap and make sure the rotor points at #1 when the crank pulley is at TDC (may require and extra rev to line up), verify plug wire firing order. Might also check the timing belt marks.

Next I would check the control and line fuel pressure.

[Sleazy E]

Three,

1. You're great help! I found out that the charcoal canister is there, but completely unplugged from the throttle body. My mechanic neighbor said it's not worth plugging back into the system as it's not needed. I didn't crank on the engine as I don't have the plastic injector holders yet (ipd taking their sweet time).

2. Wax hose is indeed an AC line.

3. I've traced the line back to the source under the airflow sensor. Other than that, I'm at a total loss because I don't know what it's for.

4. The sol valve on the firewall that's connected to a wire and two hoses that lead to the intake.

Once I get all the parts in, I'll get you updated. Thanks again for your help!

[Three Fat Tigers]

3) after looking through the green books on this, I still don't know what that line is. If I knew what/where exactly it was connected to, then maybe...

In case you didn't know about k-jet.org, they have a wealth of info on these cars, especially the factory green books:
http://www.k-jet.org...oks/200-series/

[Sleazy E]

3) after looking through the green books on this, I still don't know what that line is. If I knew what/where exactly it was connected to, then maybe...

In case you didn't know about k-jet.org, they have a wealth of info on these cars, especially the factory green books:
http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/

The line runs under the air flow sensor bottom plate, just right of the control pressure regulator. I'll have to climb under the car to check more about it.

Update!!!
1) Changed injectors to new bosch ones. They seem to work, but my car still doesn't run.
2) Changed all fuses to new ipd fuses == 1980 fuse diagram that I got from kjet doesn't match my car. I don't know wtf is wrong there.
3) I think we need to make a consolidated diagram for hoses going to their correct items because I'm finding contraditions in green books and it's really starting to piss me off.
4) My dad thinks the car could have problems from being out of timing... that'll be the next issue to look at.

[Sleazy E]

Well, I got the car running for about 12 minutes... having to rev the engine.

Here's the update of what I've found wrong. The guy must have screwed with the timing and the electrical system because my fuse panel doesn't match what is in the books.

Anyone have any ideas of how hard it is to rewire from the fuse panel to the normal wires? I've never done this and my dad just scoffs at the idea.

Every time I get the car running, it goes great, but the 8 amp fuse for the fuel pump burns up. I used the 16 and 25 types, but those burn up EXTREMELY fast. The 8 amp worked very well the first time I got it running, now when the car runs, a couple pumps of the gas and the fuse blows and the car dies.

I finally found a green book that can help me trace the lines correctly, so I'll be doing that this weekend.

[Three Fat Tigers]

On the main pump specs, 9.5 amps is the maximum draw, the in-tank is 1-2 amps. I tested the pumps on my '84 242Ti and was under 6.5 amps for both measured from the fuse panel. It's quite possible you have a fuel pump problem.

The entire fuse panel is not difficult to change out as needed, last one I bought new from Volvo was not expensive. I would expect it to be relatively simple to put it all back to stock, especially if you have a green book wiring diagram.

I would also consider rewiring the fuel pumps, installing a fused power line all the way from the battery to a relay under the back seat where the factory fuel pump wiring at that location supplies power for the relay and the relay supplies battery power to the pumps.