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lookforjoe

Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens

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Whats the deal with the ard ecu for use with the vems? is that so you can piggy back with the vems and not have a cel or have the stock ecu freak out?

robbie

Yeah, the ARD is just a No-CEL ECU that will run the cluster, AC, cooling fan & supply OBDII connection for inspection purposes.

VEMS cannot readily govern the temp gauge, etc., so since I need to have an OBDII hookup, I might as well run all those from it & not have to deal with figuring out workarounds with VEMS.

Wired the WBO2 connector where the rear O2 used to go, added extra wire for AFR (nerst signal)

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installed the IAT in the intake pipe

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RSI rods are here

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look exactly the same (except for length) as the rods I bought from LG speed back when I did the motor the first time.

started cleaning up the worst of the oxidation off the block

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Utilizing all 3 ecu slots. H... you are amazing! Keep up the great work and good luck with the bui... rebuild. :)

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would be a hell of a lot easier to have the block media blasted...done the wire wheel thing, not too fun.

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would be a hell of a lot easier to have the block media blasted...done the wire wheel thing, not too fun.

Yeah - I thought of that, but media blasting can leave pellets that end up screwing the motor. The machine shop has redone numerous motors damaged from the remnants of the process, that put me off.

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Yeah - I thought of that, but media blasting can leave pellets that end up screwing the motor. The machine shop has redone numerous motors damaged from the remnants of the process, that put me off.

I have also heard those horror stories, but with proper masking it shouldnt be an issue, non the less i cant say id feel comfortable having someone else do it to my motor, but i wouldnt think twice about doing it my self at work, the finish is great!

But your painting this block like the last one correct?

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I have also heard those horror stories, but with proper masking it shouldnt be an issue, non the less i cant say id feel comfortable having someone else do it to my motor, but i wouldnt think twice about doing it my self at work, the finish is great!

But your painting this block like the last one correct?

I agree. I wish I had access to the equipment. I hate wire brushing, it takes forever and the dust is disgusting, even with a mask. I will be painting it, yes. The last one held up well, even with cleanup from the the multiple oil baths it received while I figured out my breather system :rolleyes:

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RSI rods are here

IMG_0262.jpg

IMG_0265.jpg

look exactly the same (except for length) as the rods I bought from LG speed back when I did the motor the first time.

Except the RSI rods have the tear drop near at the top.

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Except the RSI rods have the tear drop near at the top.

Aha! I didn't notice that....

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Yeah - I thought of that, but media blasting can leave pellets that end up screwing the motor. The machine shop has redone numerous motors damaged from the remnants of the process, that put me off.

Soda blasting might help.

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Now the wiring harness is out of the way, I can start playing with the turbo/header/water pipe/Tial fitment.

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very close to #5 runner.

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Drain tube I had previously made will work, just need to replace Mitsu flange with the larger Garrett style.

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Jesus that looks big. And I thought my Turbo looked big bolted on like that. Maybe its just the angle.

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Edited by dublin14

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Problems with clocking - with the hex fitting that comes with the turbo - then the 1/8th NPT - 4AN fitting, then the 45º elbow of the line.. the CHRA has to be over 10º off vertical to clear the header flange

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This routing won't work anyway, 'cos nothing can stick out past the header flange, that already sits right up against the firewall.

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Drain would be something like this..

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Went through my plumbing fittings & found a 1/8NPT elbow - this looks much better, just not sure I want to rely on the brass fitting with the turbo temperatures. I'll have to look for a stainless steel version

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Then I tried positioning the Tial in it's necessary location, with the water pipes attached. it will have to sit very close to the header.

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Downpipe will be positioned about like this, have to cut off the end couple of inches & weld a new section for the V-band, then deal with the WG dump & flex coupling

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I weighed the H-Beams against the stock 147mm's - they weigh 619g, vs 659g for the Volvo rods. Larger wrist pins will prbably balance out the reduction.

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Scream pipe it !!!!! :lol:

Looking great!

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Worked on the drain tube & DP this evening.

I used the flange from a water pipe - it's the same footprint as a Garrett drain, just needs one hole enlarged for the M8 bolts.

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cut off another section of the DP - used my new Milwaukee Hackzall

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This should work OK - can't weld the upper section until I can test fit the pipe in the car & make sure it clears the Angle Drive & propshaft. I'll also have to have the WG pipe welded to the header before doing the WG dump, to reduce the number of variables. I'll get the VBand flange welded to the elbow section of the DP tomorrow.

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oil feed line will be nicely secured using the line clamps from the 99- fuel line

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also picked up a steel 1/8" NPT male/female elbow

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Jesus that looks big. And I thought my Turbo looked big bolted on like that. Maybe its just the angle.

Nope, it isn't the angle, that 6262 is a beast. I blew into the turbine inlet and it spooled right up too :lol: .

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