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lookforjoe

Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens

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^ Thanks, JC.

These are the VEMS fuel & Ign maps. I presume the fuel map is based on the injectors/flow rate I specified in the base setup. I have not edited the RPM scaling - don't know if I can - I don't like the massive increment jumps up top currently shown.

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Picture2.png

So, from my logs, I could translate my timing(@ given rpm) values, transferring based on IBP (converting from psi to kPa), since the vertical column is Kpa?

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147267261.jpg

There's my last spark table, car has a really great feel, much stronger top end than it ever had with Motronic by a longshot (keep in mind I'm only running up to the 230 kpa bin).

I would be wary of the stated timing values in Motronic maps, I have heard a few times that they are mapped a little higher than expected actual values at high RPM.

You are running 93 octane pump gas right? Not sure if there is anything in your setup that would really require a lot more spark angle at any point.

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I downloaded the VEMS software and I can see how you feel intimidated. Nira software runs you through a couple wizards and then you have a decent base map. I was able to drive on mine after just a small change to the VE table.

Didn't you buy an 850 beater to drive?

I think you just need to go balls deep and make the conversion. It will be a steep learning curve but in reality it shouldn't be too difficult to at least get it running.

Do you plan to tune it yourself or are you taking it to a tuner this time?

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There's my last spark table, car has a really great feel, much stronger top end than it ever had with Motronic by a longshot (keep in mind I'm only running up to the 230 kpa bin).

I would be wary of the stated timing values in Motronic maps, I have heard a few times that they are mapped a little higher than expected actual values at high RPM.

You are running 93 octane pump gas right? Not sure if there is anything in your setup that would really require a lot more spark angle at any point.

Hi Eric

Thanks for the input. Why such low timing values in the lower rpm bins? To build torque? I am running only 93 octane. The timing values I record in the logs pretty much match the TT map, except for the upper load/rpm bins where it draws from the top three rows. I presumed this to be due to the MAF scaling.

I downloaded the VEMS software and I can see how you feel intimidated. Nira software runs you through a couple wizards and then you have a decent base map. I was able to drive on mine after just a small change to the VE table.

Didn't you buy an 850 beater to drive?

I think you just need to go balls deep and make the conversion. It will be a steep learning curve but in reality it shouldn't be too difficult to at least get it running.

Do you plan to tune it yourself or are you taking it to a tuner this time?

I sold the old 850. I could drive the X1/9 while I work on the VEMS, but that's not much fun in the winter.

Yeah, just a little daunting! I will be tuning myself. Don't know of any tuners around here that can work with this.

If Robbie can get his base config file for me, at least I will have fewer issues fault tracing if it doesn't work right off the bat.

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Hi Eric

Thanks for the input. Why such low timing values in the lower rpm bins? To build torque? I am running only 93 octane. The timing values I record in the logs pretty much match the TT map, except for the upper load/rpm bins where it draws from the top three rows. I presumed this to be due to the MAF scaling.

Hey Hussein,

Never really messed with the lower values too much (originally Karl's map), and never got to dyno tune the car. I was more focused on the midrange and higher RPM with the street tuning that was done, and only ever added timing (I can only assume it was a pretty conservative map to begin with as Karl never dyno tuned either).

If you're talking about higher kpa and lower RPM, it's because my hardware setup never visits those bins :) If you are talking about lower RPM in general, it's just because I never really spent much time going over those bins because the car's drivability was extremely good and wanted to focus on acceleration more than that.

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I have heard a few times that they are mapped a little higher than expected actual values at high RPM.

My MTE map was programmed to 27 deg advance at 6200 100% load.............................................................................................................car was faster with 17 and extending the rpm points though.

Edited by JCviggen

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In all honesty..its is very simple, but you need to get the EMS installed in the car and just try to get it running at idle (disconnect and disable IAC, leave the vac tree connection open so the car will idle without IAC and thottle input). Nothing you set on the VEMS can damage your engine (only electrical components if wired incorrectly).

Thats step one.

Step two. The tuning of the timing cells doesn't matter right now, but I would set it to a static 10 degrees in order to get the car running and idling (check timing with a timing light!!), after that you can concentrate on the tuning.

step three, verify all the add-ons such as IAC and configure them.

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^ Makes sense. I guess I'll have to wait until the Spring, so I can leave it sit if need be.

Worked on the 3" IC piping today, and installed the modded TB. With base idle set to 975 in the software, I pinched off the IAC hose & set the butterfly about 1/2 turn off the stop - so that idle drops & then surges when hose is pinched off. Normal butterfly setting for 850 rpm would be only 1/4 turn off the stop.

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2.5" -3" step coupler from hotside over motor to 3" hotside down pipe, 2 bungs in hotside next to IC for IAT probes

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Hotside

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Coldside

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Was dark when I finished up, and I forgot the rag I had stuffed into the inlet pipe by the MAF - drove around the block before I realized it had no get up & go - got the rag out, but not before some fibers made their way through to the IC :arob:

  • Upvote 2

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I would check out LugTronic tuning. Kevin Black is a master VEMS tuner out of New Jersey I believe. He tunes a lot of turbo VR6s.

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3rd/4th pull with lowered WOT sliders & slightly lowered upper fuel cells

Picture2-30.png

Picture3-22.png

definitely better than previous: lower duty cycles & EGT's. Didn't run it high enough to see if the timing improved over 7100rpm

earlier map
3rd4thNov10data.png

So, what's curious to me is that raising fuel & WOT settings didn't really lower AFR's, it just increased inj. duty cycles drastically & reduced timing and presumably raised EGT's. Trying to wrap my head around that. Don't see how I could be running out of fuel, since the inj. flow increased. Just not understanding the contributing factors that would cause it to pull timing, but not run richer with the increase in flow, unless things just get fucked up when the duty cycle gets that high (85-99%!!)

EDIT: Needed higher capacity fuel pump.

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2nd 3rd 4th pull

2nd3rd4thNov16graph.png

2nd3rd4thNov16data.png

4th pukll

4thNov16graph.png

4thNov16data.png

much better with the leaner WOT settings. Time to install the larger injectors. I added another MAP to check the Apexi MAP I've been logging from, that always seemed to under report. The reference MAP (IBPi) seems more accurate reflection of what I see on the gauge.

Added the second cam cover vent

IMG_1605.jpg

Nathan from TB sent me a FoMoCo vacuum pump - I may put it here...

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or stuff it under the breather can...

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.. I have no CC pressure, but I have no vacuum either. Curious to see if having a vacuum actually does anything tangible performance wise.

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If you're honestly considering a crankcase vacuum pump, you might consider converting the engine to a dry sump system. Significant crankcase vac can harm oil uptake in a wetsump engine, although the oil pickup sits pretty low in our pans, so who knows really. Though really at this point a dry sump system seems logical for you. It keeps the oil more consistent across all conditions, and keep sit a bit cooler, not to mention it would let you run a decent amount of crankcase vac which could net you a good 10HP or so.

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Cool idea, but nah, not going to go to all that trouble. The pumps only draw a few inches of vacuum, not the 10 or more that a 'real' pump would pull. The idea is just to get a few inches of vacuum & see. I can pretty easily run this in series with the stock breather vent as inlet, then outlet to the can. I can monitor vacuum draw on the breather, as well as at the can, to make sure the pump output is not creating positive pressure on the head vents. Just a little experiment, not major surgery as a dry sump would become. I looked at what was involved with that on the Kpax S60 @ VCNA, way more work (and space needed) than I would want to do on a street car.

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