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lookforjoe

Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens

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did you check the wheel hop situation with the modified engine mounts?

Not yet - the weather has cleared today, so with dry pavement I should be able to test it on the way home. If the hop is gone, it will likely slip instead, that's the way it's gone every other time .....

That spacer is not just for the XC, all the AWD have that spacer, even my R. I recall Yang removed his after he did a FWD manual swap on his R to level the engine.

On the drivers side the XC have a spacer above the rubber mount and aluminum bracket for the motor. Where my R doesn't have it and the bracket sits right on the mount.

I figured all AWD. My left mount bracket is designed to sit on the mount shaft, up against the larger shouldered adjuster nut

IMG_0789.jpg

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I am pretty sure I replaced my side mount and it didn't have spacer... but I could be wrong. Now I'm going to have to check.

Nice numbers, H! Powerful car is powerful.

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I am pretty sure I replaced my side mount and it didn't have spacer... but I could be wrong. Now I'm going to have to check.

Nice numbers, H! Powerful car is powerful.

Thanks.

If yours is an AWD , the spacer should be there. Set a level on the cam Cover to see if your motor is level if there is no spacer.

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So, the clutch is back out, the blown PTE6262 is on it's way back to Precision, and the leaking radiator is on it's way back to Howe for warranty repair.

pics of the flywheel, disc & PP

PP - fingers look even

IMG_2348_zps20284012.jpg

flywheel that was only machined a month or so ago

IMG_2351_zps04e16131.jpg

lots of clutch powder all over

IMG_2349_zpsd8810969.jpg

PP surface

IMG_2352_zps2059a31c.jpg

IMG_2352a_zpsd59b7bcf.jpg

both sides of the disc

IMG_2353_zps6c59ddc7.jpg

IMG_2354_zpsd67f4f45.jpg

thickness

IMG_2360_zps0707bc1a.jpg

Rad seepage

HoweRadLeakRS_zps484165c1.jpg

HoweRadLeakLS_zpsb2bfc91c.jpg

Blown Turbo

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It's always something isn't it? Looks like another trip to Carlisle in the X19...........

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I always have to fall back to my reliable Italian car also when the Volvo breaks. :)

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Took some measurements today. Stack height from back of block to tip of fingers is 82.55 (3.25") (I held a straight edge across the clutch, set the extension on the block surface, and marked the extension where it intersected the straight edge)

null_zps2667f1f9.jpg

Distance from bell housing to compressed t/o bearing face is 79.375 (3.125")

null_zps7bbe131f.jpg

T/o bearing has approx .75"/19mm travel (extended T/O distance = 2.375").

null_zps5073cd18.jpg


Which means the pp fingers are already pushed in 3.175mm (1/8") before anything happens. As this clutch wears, the fingers will rise further, since its not self adjusting like the factory DM clutch. So, I figuring the problem is once again the flywheel - since the total height is no good - and the clutch is specifically intended for DM applications. Can't see what else could be the problem.

Disc is worn approx .889mm - down to almost 8mm from 9mm original thickness, about 50% worn due to the slippage.

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Took some measurements today. Stack height from back of block to tip of fingers is 82.55 (I held a straight edge across the clutch, set the extension on the block surface, and marked the extension where it intersected the straight edge)

Distance from bell housing to compressed t/o bearing face is 79.375

T/o bearing has approx .75"/19mm travel.

Which means the pp fingers are already pushed in 1/8" before anything happens. As this clutch wears, the fingers will rise further, since its not self adjusting like the factory DM clutch. So, I figuring the problem is once again the flywheel - since the total height is no good - and the clutch is specifically intended for DM applications. Can't see what else could be the problem.

Disc is worn approx .889mm - down to almost 8mm from 9mm original thickness, about 50% worn due to the slippage.

H... sorry to hear about your on going issues.... Clutch, wheel hop, turbo, radiator... I truly admire your persistance and determination...

I'm sure you'll have it all squared away in no time... as for the issues you've been having with your flywheel, would it have been any wiser to see if you could have sourced the special flywheel (DM to SM) in conjunction with a clutch that is suitable for your applicaton, vs trying to source everything separetly??? Maybe see if Kalmar has any options for a clutch in your anticipate power range??? oh and a belated congrats on the amazing numbers... not too shabby...

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yep, sounds like what i was suggesting earlier... if that disc has any significant preload the torque capacity will be significantly reduced.

Is there enough meat on the flywheel to machine the mounting surface and make it thinner?

Edited by blkaplan

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Is there enough meat on the flywheel to machine the mounting surface and make it thinner?

I considered this. I would need to remove at least 1/4", maybe more. Seems like a substantial amount, considering what a bitch it was to remove just .050".

I may just get a complete new setup - looks like I can get an AP racing clutch and flywheel from Don @ KU for about the same as buying a new spec flywheel and new disc - I would still need to deal with the hot spotted PP on top of that. I haven't heard back from Spec yet, so I don't know if they are willing to work with me at all.

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what were you using to machine it? with the right equipment it shouldn't be hard to cut away 1/4" IF theres is enough meat to remove it safely

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what were you using to machine it? with the right equipment it shouldn't be hard to cut away 1/4" IF theres is enough meat to remove it safely

The hot-spotting/hardening of the billet steel made it much harder to machine than a cast flywheel would be. The machine shop used a mill for the rough cuts then the flywheel grindstone for the finish. Once I have the flywheel off, I can take measurements. I'll take the spec PP to him & see if the surface can be trimmed.

There are apparently at least one or two guys in NY who may be able to put together a good clutch for me - so, I need to investigate that.

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If you get the right grade carbide and endmill geometry you can cut even the hardest steels. Or it would be a good job to do on lathe with a ceramic style insert if its really hard.

Edited by blkaplan

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I'd say the shop did it right, when I ran a shop, the only way to really deal with hot spots is to grind them out.

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