Sign in to follow this  
lookforjoe

Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens

Recommended Posts

Taking a break from other stuff (installing modified LH2.2 in my X1/9 before the built motor goes back in)

null_zpsbac59475.jpg

Serpentine belt mod using some Volvo parts is complete, also. Beats the three standard v/belt setup

IMG_3531_zps92b0e61a.jpg

Fabricated the new 3/8" hard lines and quick connects for the sending unit going in. All fittings silver soldered. Was a pita to bend the 3/8 line without kinking, and to ensure the offset angle on the new one is near as dammit the same as the original, so it sits properly on the base of the gas tank floor

null_zpsb11af043.jpg

Stock lines I cut off & drilled out the pass through. The electrical junctions are a press fit, with a rubber seal and a stat washer to retain from the inside. Not hard to remove and reuse if suitable care is taken.

null_zps07c17003.jpg

Next I have to replace the pass through 5/16" fittings for the ejector sender installed in the left saddle

null_zps97459eb2.jpg

  • Upvote 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was wondering if you could help me out quick with your oil cooler mod you originally started this thread with lol. I'm looking into doing it on my 96 850 and had a few questions. I'm assuming this wasn't an RN engine you did it to as otherwise it should have had it already, so what did you do about the stock lines that leave the engine to go to the rad/cooler, do they get re-routed to the cooler on the pan or do they get blocked off? I'm a little confused about the assembly, I was under the impression that housing was part of the pump assembly. As far as parts, I would assume pan and pickup tube, cooler, lines, rear water pipe turbo lines, and all the seals, but what about the oil pump or water pump? Is most of this stuff bolt on? Just want to make sure I won't be getting in over my head if I want to try and do this. Thanks

Billy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the RN pan deletes the connections to the radiator, everything is self contained. The N pan has a thermostat in it that directs the oil to the cooler when it gets to a certain temperature. This is missing, and you simply need to forget about the oil line connections to the radiator. You also need the correct water pipes. there are 2 that you need. The one from the water pump to the radiator that goes around the back of the engine, and the one that has the drain cock on it. both have a tube for the water lines to connect to the oil cooler. Hussein has pictures of the various versions of those water lines in one of his posts.

Edited by wizzard_al
  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my engine out when I did mine. But what I have read from others it is a PITA to do in the car. Its doable, but is a chore. You have to remove everything on the exhaust side of the engine and be able to wiggle the main coolant pipe out of the block.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The difficulty with the water pipe depends on the version - the later pipes with the longer water feed pipe to the oil cooler being the most difficult as there isn't much room to pivot the water pipe when working it into the water pump housing. Plenty of vaseline on the housing o-ring helps.

Working on Aerocatch latches - after looking at Trent's thread again :D

Latch will go about here - with outer edge closely aligned with fender line, which also closely aligns the inner edge with the hood ridge. Having the catch set so the centerline of the catch aligns with the hood/fender seam just looks wrong.

null_zps96d963ed.jpg

catch will be set so that opening for pin aligns with stock catch center - 6.5" front front edge, 3.25" in from fender edge

null_zps5e002f47.jpg

null_zps953e3974.jpg

Since my battery is side mounted, I don't have the room to make hood pin brackets like Trents - so mine will be like this:

null_zps108d5400.jpg

  • Upvote 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hood latches are looking good! Thanks for the info on the water pipes, doing it in the car won't be as issue for me as the head is completely off the car at the moment so I should have plenty of room to get the pipe out. I'll watch for an earlier model year one then anyway, I'm assuming I will need one from a turbo car for the turbo connections, there's an S60 NA in the wreckers by my place that I was hoping to get it from but maybe I'll just get the pan and cooler etc and get the main pipe later. Thanks guys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to look for '99 or '00 S70 turbo cars, I think Hussein said those were the closes to what you want, so that you don't have to fabricate all new water lines to the turbo that that are different in length from the originals.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brackets are ready, now I 'just' have to cut up the hood...

null_zpsbc44fed0.jpg

null_zps38462f84.jpg

null_zpsb0ae8ff9.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cut the hood for the catches the past two afternoons. Finished up the install & drilled the mounting plate holes this evening. Holes are painted & trimmed, Catch has a thin bead of Volvo sealant under the lip.

IMG_3977_zps22b2cf2d.jpg

remove underside catch

IMG_3980_zps03fcbad5.jpg

install pin w/bracket & check contact area in hood

IMG_3983_zpsb41184d9.jpg

align catch with fender/ hood seam

IMG_3981_zps58884dac.jpg

rough cut

IMG_3982_zps4cd723fa.jpg

check fit & catch operation

IMG_3986_zps21117db1.jpg

drill mount plate holes & paint. Use butyl to retain nuts in mount plate

IMG_3992_zpsa5206c4d.jpg

installed

IMG_3993_zpsbf7704da.jpg

and done

IMG_3994_zpsc466a11a.jpg

IMG_3995_zpsd95149eb.jpg

  • Upvote 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you have to put in a larger coolant overflow reservoir when you upgraded the rad? I'm starting to get overflow during hot soak with the larger capacity, and I assume the overflow is the same size for Manual/Auto.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you have to put in a larger coolant overflow reservoir when you upgraded the rad? I'm starting to get overflow during hot soak with the larger capacity, and I assume the overflow is the same size for Manual/Auto.

What type of rad do you have? There is no reason a larger expansion tank would be required - there is no change in expansion rate of the coolant... I am using Evans Waterless since last August, but didn't see any increase in coolant expansion in the reservoir with the 3" core and standard coolant prior to that...

My wagon at Carlisle :)

Carlisle_zpsca8f74e2.jpg

On the way down

Carlisle2_zps9ffde73d.jpg

Carlisle4_zps4edbd6a7.jpg

  • Upvote 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Read about your breather problem. I use S60R breather with 25mm (1") line to under the car. No crankcase pressure problems even on 660hp / 660nm / 2.5bar / 8000rpm rev limit.

Also i have oil restrictor on my holset hx40 which is 2.5mm (0.100"). Also use 1liter less oil in engine so oil level should be on halfway mark on you oil dipstick. :) Also revving only to 8000rpm is helping alot compared to 9000rpm...

S60RhuohotinvsT4_zps0ebfe8e0.jpg

Edited by VulvaS40T4
  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this