Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens


lookforjoe
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"The Force Awakens" seems oddly appropriate :D

For clutches, you can run any clutch that will fit an 87 RX7 Turbo. Just like the 850 R clutch, it is a 240mm OD but has a 23x1 spline to fit the M66 input shaft. I'd recommend a stock single mass flywheel so you don't have to dick around with a "DMF-equivalent" SMF like with the spec setup in the past.  Choose your clutch and pair it with a Sachs 707 PP. 

Fortunately, the 240mm OD and 23x1 spline opens up a huge variety of aftermarket options. For example, Exedy and ACT, two of the biggest and most popular names in aftermarket clutches, have a bunch of options for clutch setups. You can choose from a simple full-face sprung hub clutch all the way up to a race ready 4 puck unsprung hub clutch. 

The biggest questions I'd have at this point; and haven't been able to find on Kalmar Union's or AP Racing's websites is which clutch disc came in the kit you have; and which friction material it uses. That would give you a solid base point to reference in your quest to upgrade.  Without that info, you're kind of shooting in the dark if the replacement clutch will be an upgrade or not. 

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Damn, and here I was hoping (in some alternate reality) that maybe a full-faced AP setup might have held out to 600whp :P. I wonder how a puck style disc possibly with a more aggressive friction material would hold up? Based on most people's very positive feedback with the AP setup, I'm fairly confident that AP might have another option for us that might work for higher outputs. 

 

For clutches, you can run any clutch that will fit an 87 RX7 Turbo. Just like the 850 R clutch, it is a 240mm OD but has a 23x1 spline to fit the M66 input shaft. I'd recommend a stock single mass flywheel so you don't have to dick around with a "DMF-equivalent" SMF like with the spec setup in the past.  Choose your clutch and pair it with a Sachs 707 PP. 

​A while back I was researching the Ford Probe clutch option paired to a machined 850 SMF and 850R pressure plate. During said research I found that several RX7 Turbo clutches had interchange part numbers with the Ford Probe disc. I was planning on doing some further research into the dimensions and suitability of the RX7 discs for our application but it seems you did that for me already!! :D

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Driveability will suffer a bit with a 6-puck clutch; the engagement will be quicker and stronger so it will be harder to slip the clutch or slowly engage it.  If that AP clutch is an organic based compound, switching to a ceramic or more exotic clutch compound may enable the use of a full face disc.

As for the RX7 info, all I did was re-post what was already available online and on this site.  Kyle (Ol' Dirty Noodle) was the one who figured out the Sachs SD693 clutch fits our cars when he was manual swapping his S40.  The 87 RX7 Turbo is one of the interchange models for that clutch disc, the 89-92 Probe is another.  That clutch also fits a few other Mazda models from the late 80s and early 90s. Sachs clutch info here: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=36&partnum=SD693&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BSACHS%2BSD693&blanktemplate=true

Another option that hasn't been explored is a multi-disc setup.  This reduces the torque each disc needs to hold by at least 50%; so a full-face clutch is used and a high degree of driveability is retained.  The major issue is that multi-disc setups typically require a custom flywheel to deal with the smaller disc diameter and change in stack thicknesses; so it would require working closely with the manufacturer to ensure tolerances are met and there is adequate clearance in our transmission casing.  Plus, a twin-disc setup is typically pretty expensive.  However, it becomes very easy for a full-face organic clutch to hold 800+ whp while having close to a stock pedal feel and effort.

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APclutch_zps94e7b2a3-1.jpg

disc is definitely organic material.

I'd really prefer to keep the larger OD setup used on the S60R style, but I guess that doesn't really matter since the smaller setup has no problem holding much power with the 707 PP as VulvaS40 has clearly demonstrated.

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Modified the Heater hose firewall elbows - 

Stock (Matt's Pic)

2hd89jr.jpg

reduced by at least 1/2-3/4", should be sufficient for fitting straight 4" inlet pipe. Used 1 1/2" 90º street elbow (cut down), & 1 standard 90º elbow  silver-soldered to the original brass fittings.

5B18EE0A-08D1-4AF1-81C9-10596A021C9A_zps

Current fit of standard hoses up against 3.5" coupling

42B2DAE0-25AE-4E97-81ED-F7F588F0A6F0_zps

Edited by lookforjoe
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SPEC flywheel is here.

2D385307-D640-449E-84FC-13966EDCA1AF_zps

added capacitors (100pF) to the signal (+) to Signal (-)

B7D2415B-FFB2-49BA-B912-8CD695FEC000_zps

So I can retry the GM coil packs.

re-wired the 4bar MAP I had added for VEMS, to use for logging in TunerPro. Just have to figure out the appropriate factor

FBDCF131-13B8-4F6C-A6CF-F684E7933A4E_zps

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What clutch disc is in the picture with the spec flywheel?

That is the Spec Stage III + sprung disc.

IMG_0785.jpg

I also have an unpsrung version

IMG_0725.jpg

 

Rated at 670ft/lbs

Screen%20Shot%202015-06-22%20at%2011.04.

In other news, I have toasted my current (used) Angle Drive. Started making some vibrations/noises on the drive to Ithaca yesterday, and got progressively worse on the way home. Pulled the DS today (which also needs replacing, worn carrier bearing & both CV's have some play), and the pinion flange has way to much play, feels quite crunchy in there :( I may have hastened its demise by reducing the backlash awhile ago, while trying to isolate a previous vibration.

So, I'm going to get a Colorado DS, MY2000 variant, as that is what I use, with the larger carrier  (Volvo version for reference)

Considering buying a new AG (8602679) instead of using yet another used AG.

I thinking this is the cause of the nasty vibration that comes & goes under heavy braking, that started a couple weeks back.

 

Capacitors didn't help with the breakup I experience over 20psi using the GM coils. I switched back to the Bosch coils for the drive home from Ithaca. Able to run 26psi with them.

log from quick 1st - 2nd pull when leaving Cass Park. Load doesn't go much over 12ms in these gears . You can see the revised rpm logging now reports actual rpm over 7600. Back to using the Toshiba laptop, which has odd time lapses in the logging. logs shows actual & requested timing & AFR's. No knock. More timing available over previous 12.24ms load limit :)

Screen%20Shot%202015-06-21%20at%2011.05.

Edited by lookforjoe
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Are you sending your drive shaft to them for rebuild?  Or do they have them on the shelf?  

I need a later drive shaft as well.

I bought it off their eBay site. I am presuming they have stock - I'm planning on sending my core back in their packaging.

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Considering this PdV collar , but there is no quantifiable info as to why it's worth 3X cost of OEM unit. I need to know what they altered in terms of fit that makes it superior.

 

 

 

Well, it says:  "Designed and manufactured in Pennsylvania, USA"..... so that must be it  :)

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Considering this PdV collar , but there is no quantifiable info as to why it's worth 3X cost of OEM unit. I need to know what they altered in terms of fit that makes it superior.

 

If I were you, I'd contact the company and see if you can get one at cost in return for your testimony. Based upon how they are marketing that hardware, it would seem like they would jump at the chance to state that it can support xxx hundred hp.

Plus, with the amount of views that your thread receives, they are guaranteed an audience for their product/message.

I'm just sayin. ;)

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If I were you, I'd contact the company and see if you can get one at cost in return for your testimony. Based upon how they are marketing that hardware, it would seem like they would jump at the chance to state that it can support xxx hundred hp.

Plus, with the amount of views that your thread receives, they are guaranteed an audience for their product/message.

I'm just sayin. ;)

Should have thought of that ;) EDIT: Just emailed him & asked if I can get a discount, can't hurt.

I just ordered one, since I'm going to install a brand new bevel gear, I'd like to make sure it lasts as long as possible. I removed the worn BG today, & the splines are fucked, in the BG & in the (new when I did the Quaife) collar.

So, new BG (8602679), Colorado DS, HD Spline Coupler & a bunch of hardware. 

I drove it today in FWD mode, and it's horrible; wheelspin at part throttle, torque steer, etc. I really can't imagine driving a FWD with this much power, it sucks. With the AWD, there's no drama, just that awesome get up & fucking go feeling :)

Edited by lookforjoe
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