118 replies to this topic

[c_long20]

Anyone got any ignition upgrade ideas?
The nitrous seems to kill the plugs after only a couple runs. Volvo plugs at .030 gap 2 or 3 runs, E3 @ .032 gap (cant change) 1 run, NGK @ .031 2 runs.

I have IPD perf wires, new Volvo cap and rotor.
MSD box? Coil upgrade? Plug wires?

The plugs dont look bad they just miss.

[B Mac]

Might just need a stronger spark? I'm running an MSD Streetfire coil, volvo cap/rotor/wires, ngk plugs...next up is an MSD 6a-L amplifier. I'd try the amp??

[volvo940tuner]

do all wet systems like this have to be tapped into each individual intake manifold runner?
Is it only dry systems that only have one nozzle that is installed in the intake stream before the throttle body?

[Korruption]

Nice runs!!

Needs moar tripod

[Naughty33W]

volvo940tuner, on 15 November 2009 - 07:08 PM, said:

do all wet systems like this have to be tapped into each individual intake manifold runner?
Is it only dry systems that only have one nozzle that is installed in the intake stream before the throttle body?

you can run a wet kit with only 1 nozzle - it SHOULD be placed into the mani (right after the TB) but can be put into place just before - a**holes who put in a wet kit before the TB that spray when not at WOT make for big booms

a dry kit nozzle can be placed anywhere you like - if you put it in infront of the maf the car will read the cool dense air and add fuel for you - but that only works to a degree - anytime a dry kit is used there's the potential for disaster - especially on turbo cars - ur basically just crossing your fingers and hoping you dont lean out (unless its a 1/4 mile car specifically tuned for it)

a small wet kit , with tweaking to ensure ur getting the right NOS to fuel mix , can be a great power adder

best to spray in 2nd , 3rd , and 4th gear --- starting at 3.5k to 4k up and going till just before shift --- NEVER HOLD THE BUTTON THROUGH THE SHIFT

[Naughty33W]

c_long20, on 15 November 2009 - 06:29 PM, said:

Anyone got any ignition upgrade ideas?
The nitrous seems to kill the plugs after only a couple runs. Volvo plugs at .030 gap 2 or 3 runs, E3 @ .032 gap (cant change) 1 run, NGK @ .031 2 runs.

I have IPD perf wires, new Volvo cap and rotor.
MSD box? Coil upgrade? Plug wires?

The plugs dont look bad they just miss.

tighter gap ? 0.028 ? maybe ur just blowin out ur spark with the nos kit

[magicaljake]

good stuff!!!

impressive work for sure

[c_long20]

Korruption, on 15 November 2009 - 07:19 PM, said:

Nice runs!!

Needs moar tripod

sorry bout that, the stands at the track actually cause most of the shaky shaky. The video is actually done with my digital camera, I dont have a camcorder.

[c_long20]

Naughty33W, on 15 November 2009 - 07:49 PM, said:

tighter gap ? 0.028 ? maybe ur just blowin out ur spark with the nos kit

Ill try that. The plugs last a long time until I spray, then they miss. with no physical damage

[TorqueSteer]

I went down to a .024 gap for my 100 hp wet shot. NGK R5671A-9 copper are two steps colder than stock, try those.

Naughty33W, on 15 November 2009 - 07:36 PM, said:

best to spray in 2nd , 3rd , and 4th gear --- starting at 3.5k to 4k up and going till just before shift --- NEVER HOLD THE BUTTON THROUGH THE SHIFT

Good point, I was running a MSD RPM window switch from 3500 to 5900 rpm to ensure that nitrous would not spray during the shift.

[Naughty33W]

TorqueSteer, on 15 November 2009 - 10:18 PM, said:

Good point, I was running a MSD RPM window switch from 3500 to 5900 rpm to ensure that nitrous would not spray during the shift.

that works , personally i'm more of a push button guy , i'd rather have 100% control myself , that way the only thing that can fail is me hahaha

[volvo940tuner]

I was told by a ZEX representative that a dry kit is ideal for turbo cars. They said that the one nozzle, installed before the TB, only sprays under WOT if the system is active. If you run a safe size jet (20-50 shot), you really aren't risking much. Eh?

[TorqueSteer]

volvo940tuner, on 16 November 2009 - 01:48 AM, said:

I was told by a ZEX representative that a dry kit is ideal for turbo cars. They said that the one nozzle, installed before the TB, only sprays under WOT if the system is active. If you run a safe size jet (20-50 shot), you really aren't risking much. Eh?

Depends on if your injectors can handle the extra fuel demand.

[L8 APEKS]

OP...you'll see more power with the ignition upgrade. Period. Do it.

Until then...reduce the gap on your plugs to .26 or so.

[Naughty33W]

the coolest setup that i've seen , which is growing in popularity , is to mount the nozzle ON the turbo , so that when it sprays it helps spin the turbo , this is a drag car setup tho

[550]

How does a nitrous jet mounted on a turbo help spin it? I mean, maybe it helps cool it down, but I'm missing it.

Also I don't know about dry shotting, I believe if you run a dry shot you should have the fueling to support that, unless you can tune your car I don't know if it is a good idea. This is all with limited knowledge, but from what I understand wet shot is safer as you run a less chance of going lean.

[Naughty33W]

it appears that they are mounting the nozzle aimed at the wheel , dunno if its actually effective or not , its just something i've seen

[550]

I think the reason for that is to cool the turbo down. I can't see the spray really doing much to help the turbo spin. But I don't claim to be an expert either. The cooling properties of nitrous, obviously, are a HUGE help to turbo charged/supercharged vehicles.

I have a friend who claims that his Camry, when supercharged, would see beyond a second decrease in qtr. mile times with a 70 shot. It was non-intercooled and he was running 15psi I believe.

To get back on topic, I think that when the OP gets everything running correctly, will see the same kinds of "boosts" due to cooling. (Adding to the benefit of nitrous in general)

[c_long20]

I dont see the point in trying to cool at the turbo when the nitrous cools down combustion temps in the comb chamber. I also dont think its a good idea to fill all those hoses and intercooler with nitrous. If you get a backfire through the intake it could make a mess. The fogger in the intake is more exact and has less room for error. IMO

The dry system works but relies on the ecm and injectors to fatten up the mix. A wet system will give a more reliable source of fuel income, makes it safer.

Got a MSD 6al box today, and odered a better assortment of nitrous jets. Hopefully we'll get her running better soon

[pinky]

good luck.