Just bought an 85' 245 GL. It ran okay when I first bought it, but I changed the air filter and am running better
fuel in it and I've noticed a little difference. I just ran some Seafoam in the fuel and maybe need some
recommendations for an oil additive to break up engine sludge before I change the oil.
Maybe everyone here can let me know what you've had the most success with for these things:
Oil
Oil Filter
Fuel/Octane rating/brand, etc.
Rear axle fluid
Transmission fluid (Manual)
Here's what I've been using:
Oil: Valvoline 10w30
Oil Filter: NAPA Gold WIX filter
Fuel: 88 Octane
Rear Axle/Transmission: Synthetic?
0
Found My 245 Wagon, Now What?
Started by skiman26, Nov 09 2009 12:24 AM
2 replies to this topic
#1
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Posted 09 November 2009 - 12:24 AM
Proud owner of a 1985 245 GL 225K miles, runs like a champ
#2
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Posted 10 November 2009 - 12:11 AM
You might try some Auto-RX for the engine sludge.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
You might look around this forum as well:
http://www.bobistheo...&Board=5&page=1
Oil:
Down here in VA I tend to run 10w40 year round in all my cars, but we've had very mild winters here over the last decade, otherwise in a colder climate I would run 10w30 in the winter. In the past I used only Amsoil synthetic, but now I use only Mobile 1. Almost any oil should be ok for 4-5k miles service. Synthetics may leak more as they often have a lower viscosity when cold, but I would stick to 10w and avoid 0w, 5w and 15w variants. I would not run less than 10w40 in the summer on an engine with high miles.
Filter:
MANN or Volvo (same product), otherwise I'll use Mobile 1 filters, or I'll settle for the Bosch Premium, which is half the price of the M1, and is basically a Purolator PureOne without texture (Bosch owns Purolator, so no surprise there).
Fuel:
Use the lowest octane fuel where you do not hear pinging from the engine, anything higher is normally a waste of money. You might also try playing around with the base ignition timing, bump it up a couple of degrees at a time and see if you can find better power while still avoiding ping.
Rear Axle:
Basically any SAE 90 or 75-80w90 API GL-5 gear oil will work. If you want to go nuts, try Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W90.
Manual Transmission:
Type F automatic fluid. I think it's type F because IINM, type F isn't as susceptible to foaming as Dexron. The cheapest brand you can find is likely as good as the most expensive. Otherwise go with Redline Type F, or if you are having any shifting issues, I'd consider switching to Redline MTL.
Owner's manual, if you don't have one:
http://new.volvocars...bo/85240_00.htm
http://www.auto-rx.com/
You might look around this forum as well:
http://www.bobistheo...&Board=5&page=1
Oil:
Down here in VA I tend to run 10w40 year round in all my cars, but we've had very mild winters here over the last decade, otherwise in a colder climate I would run 10w30 in the winter. In the past I used only Amsoil synthetic, but now I use only Mobile 1. Almost any oil should be ok for 4-5k miles service. Synthetics may leak more as they often have a lower viscosity when cold, but I would stick to 10w and avoid 0w, 5w and 15w variants. I would not run less than 10w40 in the summer on an engine with high miles.
Filter:
MANN or Volvo (same product), otherwise I'll use Mobile 1 filters, or I'll settle for the Bosch Premium, which is half the price of the M1, and is basically a Purolator PureOne without texture (Bosch owns Purolator, so no surprise there).
Fuel:
Use the lowest octane fuel where you do not hear pinging from the engine, anything higher is normally a waste of money. You might also try playing around with the base ignition timing, bump it up a couple of degrees at a time and see if you can find better power while still avoiding ping.
Rear Axle:
Basically any SAE 90 or 75-80w90 API GL-5 gear oil will work. If you want to go nuts, try Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W90.
Manual Transmission:
Type F automatic fluid. I think it's type F because IINM, type F isn't as susceptible to foaming as Dexron. The cheapest brand you can find is likely as good as the most expensive. Otherwise go with Redline Type F, or if you are having any shifting issues, I'd consider switching to Redline MTL.
Owner's manual, if you don't have one:
http://new.volvocars...bo/85240_00.htm
#3
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 05:09 AM
Good information, thanks
I figured I better start somewhere and just assume that the fluids have never been changed.
P.S. I've already had to fix the overdrive button on the stick shift thanks to my wife
I figured I better start somewhere and just assume that the fluids have never been changed.
P.S. I've already had to fix the overdrive button on the stick shift thanks to my wife
Proud owner of a 1985 245 GL 225K miles, runs like a champ
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