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Need Help Buying Volvo 240 '91


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#1 Guest_newbie 1_*

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 06:53 AM

I am considering purchase of 240 '91 with about 135000 miles. The record shows that 1) valve cover gasket is seeping and 2) brake fliud failed test,3)a/ccompressor seeping/leaking at shaft seal.

Is this a sign of anything serious? Could you guess how many hours of labor and parts cost? Thanks.



#2 64pvolvo1800

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Posted 21 November 2009 - 11:17 AM

View Postnewbie 1, on 21 November 2009 - 06:53 AM, said:

I am considering purchase of 240 '91 with about 135000 miles. The record shows that 1) valve cover gasket is seeping and 2) brake fliud failed test,3)a/ccompressor seeping/leaking at shaft seal.

Is this a sign of anything serious? Could you guess how many hours of labor and parts cost? Thanks.
1 & 2 do it yourself $100, 3= $650 if you want AC, 0 if not!
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#3 derosa

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 04:48 AM

Valve cover gasket is about 10-20 minutes depending on your skill level and about 10.00.
By brake fluid failed I assume you mean the fluid is contaminated or dirty and needs bleeding. If so and you're not in the rust belt then your about 50-60 for the job and a couple hours work at home. Cost should cover fluid, new bleed nipples and a tool from IPD or FCP that lets you solo bleed the brakes with ease. If you're in the rest belt and its been years since someone touched anything it could be a nightmare. My bleed job on calipers that were about 7 years old in NY resulted in new calipers all around.
Ac is as 64p1800 says, lots of money or nothing. I've never had a 240 with working AC. Upstate NY doesn't require too many days driving with the window down to warrant repair. If you're in AZ, TX or the like, prepare to spend the cash.
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#4 Three Fat Tigers

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 04:31 PM

I wouldn't worry too much about the compressor shaft seal if the AC is still working normally. It's not impossible to have this seal replaced. If needed, you can DIY the replacement of the compressor yourself, as well as converting over to R134 if that hasn't been done, it's all simple bolt on work. Go with a new smart type orifice tube, well worth it. Then hire a shop to evacuate and recharge the system, make certain they leave it on the vacuum pump for about 1 hour min, then leave it for a while with the pump off and all valves closed to see if it has any leaks; I find most shops don't care and will do only the absolute minimum leaving you with more headaches.
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