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Marius850R

Upgrade N/A Cams , Only Intake Cam Or Upgrade Both Int/Ex On My 850 T5-R

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For people who have spent enough money on bolt-ons to reach the "stage" where we're swapping cams, I'm very surprised there's no before/after dyno on this subject.

I would be willing to do another before/after dyno with the N/A cams. However, I'd only be able to either (1) the intake cam alone, or (2) both intake and exhaust. I couldn't compare both. Was there a specific year on the N/A engines which had a more aggressive cam profile than the others?

I know in the VW 1.8/2.0L 16V engines, before a ton of cams were commonly available, a common upgrade was the Euro intake cam. But this was only a gain of 6-7hp at most.

Some VW guys also used the exhaust cam as an intake cam.

The other thing I noticed was that this was a very mild performance upgrade, and if there was going to be any port work at all to the head, then the Euro intake cam would have to again be replaced with something a little more aggressive:

http://pweb.jps.net/~ericb/newmods.html

So...anyway...does anyone have a dyno that shows JUST the difference in power from just a cam swap??? I wish there was a bigger aftermarket for the whiteblock here; VW VR6 cams can be had for $234.95 now for a pair. That would be so nice to get 10-12hp worth of cams for $230 bucks!!!

IIRC 30$ Junkyard N/A Cams net about 10-15hp. Even cheaper ;D

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IIRC 30$ Junkyard N/A Cams net about 10-15hp. Even cheaper ;D

That's what about 40 people seem to say...even though 0 people have run that setup on a dyno to come up with before/after results... :ph34r:

I'm not gonna spend X number of hours pulling and installing cams if I don't really know for sure what the result is!

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True. Does anyone have some before and after feedback from installing N/A cams?

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That's what about 40 people seem to say...even though 0 people have run that setup on a dyno to come up with before/after results... :ph34r:

I'm not gonna spend X number of hours pulling and installing cams if I don't really know for sure what the result is!

Lol grabbing a set of cams from a wrecked volvo 850 will take you about 15-30 minutes TOPS,

1. Remove all securing bolts, you may have to use something to pry it up, or give it a whack on the side

2. Cut the timing belt

3. Remove cams

4. Enjoy in time and 30$ well spent

It is CONFIRMED on the butt dyno to give you slight increases in power :lol:

Not to mention the profiles of the cams are more agressive so it makes sense there would be power gains :)

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Lol grabbing a set of cams from a wrecked volvo 850 will take you about 15-30 minutes TOPS,

1. Remove all securing bolts, you may have to use something to pry it up, or give it a whack on the side

2. Cut the timing belt

3. Remove cams

4. Enjoy in time and 30$ well spent

It is CONFIRMED on the butt dyno to give you slight increases in power :lol:

Not to mention the profiles of the cams are more agressive so it makes sense there would be power gains :)

Is putting them back in that easy (as long as you have your cams set at TDC before you remove them)?

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Is putting them back in that easy (as long as you have your cams set at TDC before you remove them)?

Well you need to scrape off old gasket and apply a new one but yes, pretty much

Make sure TDC or 4* advance exhaust, and make sure to apply torque specs to the bolts and work in the correct pattern

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Well you need to scrape off old gasket and apply a new one but yes, pretty much

Make sure TDC or 4* advance exhaust, and make sure to apply torque specs to the bolts and work in the correct pattern

I like how that sounds, simple. The only part I still don't get is how do you know how much a degree is?? :unsure:

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I like how that sounds, simple. The only part I still don't get is how do you know how much a degree is?? :unsure:

http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B6ZF_0ZmNV3ZZWQ5MzVkYjYtZGM3OC00ODQzLWJmZTctNGU0Y2U2NzRkZmRh&hl=en

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Well you need to scrape off old gasket and apply a new one but yes, pretty much

Make sure TDC or 4* advance exhaust, and make sure to apply torque specs to the bolts and work in the correct pattern

So you're quoting a combined total of 40-60 minutes to remove cams from one car, and then also install them in another car and complete the job? :blink:

Kevin...that's bitchin, thanks!

Not to mention the profiles of the cams are more agressive so it makes sense there would be power gains :)

...can someone link me to the cam profiles? I found it once before but I'm having trouble finding it this time. Thanks!

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True. Does anyone have some before and after feedback from installing N/A cams?

Sigh. Leave it to me. ;) Once I can find the data on the stock cams vs the N/A cams, and it seems worthwhile on paper...I will swap them out and then dyno like I did with the ECU tunes.

Only thing is...I had other things I wanted to install soon as well, and it's going to take a lot of self control not to install other parts at the same time, as that would skew the results and render them useless. :( We'll see!

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T5 cams versus GLT cams

GLT

Intake:250dr duration 8,45mm lift

Exhaust:252,6dr duration 8,45mm lift

T5

Intake:242dr duration 7,95 lift

Exhaust:243,5dr duration 7,95 lift"

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T5 cams versus GLT cams

GLT

Intake:250dr duration 8,45mm lift

Exhaust:252,6dr duration 8,45mm lift

T5

Intake:242dr duration 7,95 lift

Exhaust:243,5dr duration 7,95 lift"

GLT meaning LPT? Or N/A GLT?

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Well you need to scrape off old gasket and apply a new one but yes, pretty much

Make sure TDC or 4* advance exhaust, and make sure to apply torque specs to the bolts and work in the correct pattern

Plus, you need the proper tool to square the cam cover as you pull it down, and a tool to lock the two cams relative to each other.... it's easy if you have the Volvo tools, not so otherwise. If you've never done it before, you better allow several hours to check over everything you've done.

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