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Marius850R

Upgrade N/A Cams , Only Intake Cam Or Upgrade Both Int/Ex On My 850 T5-R

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Guys, the stock turbo cams are very anemic.

The NA cams are slightly less anemic, though they do have a good amount more lift. It's a no brainer. They are better, period.

Whether it is worth it to do them in your car depends on your confidence, skill level, schedule, horoscope for the day, etc. It's no more difficult than doing a timing belt IMO. Actually, it's easier IMO.

Hussein, you are a saint for encouraging people to do it the right way.

However, I have had the cam cover and timing belt off about a jillion times in these cars, and never used any of the special Volvo tools. I pull the valve cover off when the engine is all lined up on TDC, then it just takes a quick visual check that the crankshaft is still lined up, re-installing the cams and the cover, compressing and installing the tensioner, making sure the gears are on the right teeth so when the belt re-tensions they will be pulled to their TDC marks, and that's it.

I have *never* stripped the threads in a cam cover bolt when reinstalling the cover. It is tedious, and you absolutely have to do it carefully, but as long as you tighten a center 6-8 or so bolts just a turn or so at a time by hand until the cover is snug against the head, you'll be fine.

I think I could do the cam swap in about an hour's time. I would get a chance to test this estimate, but I think I'm going to do my timing belt and water pump at the same time.

As far as before-after numbers... I have a pretty good setup to show significant gains, but it's also a setup that everyone will probably dismiss the results in discussions as I'm "heavily modded" (whatever that means :rolleyes: ).

The bottom line is the cams are meaningfully more aggressive, and as long as you can optimize the cam timing for your intended powerband and tune, you will see gains. In my opinion people being wishy-washy about their confidence in doing the swap is why we see sooooo many of these annoying threads and nobody actually doing anything. If anyone wants a hold-the-baby's-hand walkthrough on doing the cam swap with hand tools, I'll write one up. Until then, everyone stop pretending like nobody knows if they're actually better or not. They are.

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I'm going to swap cams. If I can do a PCV system in 45 mins start to finish, I'm not worried about this. Thanks for all the info everyone, it's extremely helpful, and I now feel like I'm somewhat educated on the cams. Besides, I'm never going to know how to do it, unless I dive in and actually do it.

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The bottom line is the cams are meaningfully more aggressive, and as long as you can optimize the cam timing for your intended powerband and tune, you will see gains. In my opinion people being wishy-washy about their confidence in doing the swap is why we see sooooo many of these annoying threads and nobody actually doing anything. If anyone wants a hold-the-baby's-hand walkthrough on doing the cam swap with hand tools, I'll write one up. Until then, everyone stop pretending like nobody knows if they're actually better or not. They are.

+10

Eric How hard is it to replace my waterpump and entire timing belt + accessories (Tensioner pulleys etc.) How hard is it to compress the Tensioner?

Engine will be in the car, any info on a write up?

I have a haynes manual and I need to do my belt soon.

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So can anyone confirm 93 NA cams same as 94+ NA cams?

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+10

Eric How hard is it to replace my waterpump and entire timing belt + accessories (Tensioner pulleys etc.) How hard is it to compress the Tensioner?

Engine will be in the car, any info on a write up?

I have a haynes manual and I need to do my belt soon.

for someone that "knows a lot" about these engines that was a pretty interesting question...

Lol grabbing a set of cams from a wrecked volvo 850 will take you about 15-30 minutes TOPS,

1. Remove all securing bolts, you may have to use something to pry it up, or give it a whack on the side

2. Cut the timing belt

3. Remove cams

4. Enjoy in time and 30$ well spent

It is CONFIRMED on the butt dyno to give you slight increases in power :lol:

Not to mention the profiles of the cams are more agressive so it makes sense there would be power gains :)

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for someone that "knows a lot" about these engines that was a pretty interesting question...

What can I say? Ive done plenty but never a timing belt on a 97 volvo 850 t5.

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timing belt is a 20min job, add another 10 for the water pump, 5-10 for the tensioner/pully. compressing the tensioner takes about 10-15mins. do it slowly with a vise

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+10

Eric How hard is it to replace my waterpump and entire timing belt + accessories (Tensioner pulleys etc.) How hard is it to compress the Tensioner?

Engine will be in the car, any info on a write up?

I have a haynes manual and I need to do my belt soon.

It's all pretty easy, compressing the tensioner might be the most awkward thing to do. It's hydraulic, so you need something that can push on both ends of it with a lot of sustained force. The methods I've used in the past: 1) Valve spring compressor, 2) Big bench vise (probably best), and 3) Floor jack pushing up onto the bottom of the car :lol: (most readily available and basically what I do these days when not at the shop

The water pump shouldn't be difficult, just a handful of 10mm bolts. The tensioner pulley is easy, I think it's two bolts although I don't really remember.

The most PITA thing I think is going to be physically getting the old belt off around the crank pulley. Always seems to be something you wrangle with for whatever reason. When I do the NA cams, I'll try to at least do a writeup on everything I do.

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cams are the same. not sure about the sprocket though?

If the sprockets are different, will the sprockets from my T-5 motor swap onto the NA cams?

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It's all pretty easy, compressing the tensioner might be the most awkward thing to do. It's hydraulic, so you need something that can push on both ends of it with a lot of sustained force. The methods I've used in the past: 1) Valve spring compressor, 2) Big bench vise (probably best), and 3) Floor jack pushing up onto the bottom of the car :lol: (most readily available and basically what I do these days when not at the shop

The water pump shouldn't be difficult, just a handful of 10mm bolts. The tensioner pulley is easy, I think it's two bolts although I don't really remember.

The most PITA thing I think is going to be physically getting the old belt off around the crank pulley. Always seems to be something you wrangle with for whatever reason. When I do the NA cams, I'll try to at least do a writeup on everything I do.

Thanks much! I guess Ill tackle this one myself!

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By tabs do you mean the timing marks?

No I mean the part of the tool that fits into the slots on the back of the cams. On the pic you posted you can see where "tabs" were bolted to the cross bar and bent toward the cams on the bottem edge od the cross bar.

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It's all pretty easy, compressing the tensioner might be the most awkward thing to do. It's hydraulic, so you need something that can push on both ends of it with a lot of sustained force. The methods I've used in the past: 1) Valve spring compressor, 2) Big bench vise (probably best), and 3) Floor jack pushing up onto the bottom of the car :lol: (most readily available and basically what I do these days when not at the shop

The water pump shouldn't be difficult, just a handful of 10mm bolts. The tensioner pulley is easy, I think it's two bolts although I don't really remember.

The most PITA thing I think is going to be physically getting the old belt off around the crank pulley. Always seems to be something you wrangle with for whatever reason. When I do the NA cams, I'll try to at least do a writeup on everything I do.

+1, very easy, correct on the WP and pulley...take your time and follow a good write up (volvospeed maint. section).

I have used a vice and agree its easiest and also a large C-clamp to compress the hydraulic tensioner.

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I really don't feel comfortable doing the cams myself on my DD when I have nothing else to drive...but the first place I called quoted me $400 to install the other set of cams. Ouch.

I will call a few other shops as I still want to do this and dyno/document the results for the board, but $400 is a no go. I have to find cheaper or I can't afford it.

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