I bought a new ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor. It stated fine before, then the ignition coil went out. Was replaced today and now it starts right away for a second ... then dies ... like it's getting gas for a second and thats it. Any suggestions please? I've search everywhere.
79 Volvo 242 Starts ... Then Dies
Started by negrito211, Jan 08 2010 01:50 AM
4 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 08 January 2010 - 01:50 AM
#2
Posted 08 January 2010 - 06:30 AM
►Check the voltage at the coil, ignition switched on, test between #15 (+) and a ground point on the body. Make sure you see close to battery voltage. You might also check this with a test lamp, something like a tail light lamp, as it may show voltage for a test meter to show no issue, yet not have enough current to run a lamp. If it's zero, might be a fault with the ignition switch or you car may be equipped with a ballast resistor that is not working properly: possible failed resistor, bad connection or wiring issue, or fault in the starter solenoid.
►Try starting with fuses #5 & #7 jumpered together. If it starts and runs, odds are the fuel pump relay is faulty.
►Make sure you can hear the frequency valve buzzing during cranking/running, otherwise there may be a failure in the lambda-sond system, some cars (though not all) so equipped will not start/run if this is not operational.
►Check the idle control valve hoses, make sure they are not loose or split. Look for any other obvious air intake leaks, make sure the PVC system is hooked up correctly. Make sure the boot between the throttle body and the air flow sensor is in good order. Any backfire through the intake while cranking/running indicates an significant intake leak.
►If not already done so, test the fuel flow as I described in your other thread: http://volvospeed.co...-242-fuel-rail/
You could also unbolt the injector holders and pull them out, place the injectors in bottle(s) to verify fuel flow.
►Try starting while spraying carb cleaner into a vacuum port, should be able to run on that even with no fuel.
►Verify timing belt marks line up.
►Attach an K-Jet fuel pressure test gauge and verify your line and control pressures are within spec.
Additional resources for diagnostic operations can be found at http://www.k-jet.org/
►Try starting with fuses #5 & #7 jumpered together. If it starts and runs, odds are the fuel pump relay is faulty.
►Make sure you can hear the frequency valve buzzing during cranking/running, otherwise there may be a failure in the lambda-sond system, some cars (though not all) so equipped will not start/run if this is not operational.
►Check the idle control valve hoses, make sure they are not loose or split. Look for any other obvious air intake leaks, make sure the PVC system is hooked up correctly. Make sure the boot between the throttle body and the air flow sensor is in good order. Any backfire through the intake while cranking/running indicates an significant intake leak.
►If not already done so, test the fuel flow as I described in your other thread: http://volvospeed.co...-242-fuel-rail/
You could also unbolt the injector holders and pull them out, place the injectors in bottle(s) to verify fuel flow.
►Try starting while spraying carb cleaner into a vacuum port, should be able to run on that even with no fuel.
►Verify timing belt marks line up.
►Attach an K-Jet fuel pressure test gauge and verify your line and control pressures are within spec.
Additional resources for diagnostic operations can be found at http://www.k-jet.org/
#3
Posted 08 January 2010 - 07:05 AM
Thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention there's a plastic screw in the intake manifold that I broke off. What is that screw for? I'm guessing it's the idle screw? Half of it is still stuck in the manifold. Do you know of a website with a detailed picture breakdown of the engine? I can't find anything.
#4
Posted 08 January 2010 - 07:57 AM
That web site is very useful, thanks. But I couldn't find any information of what the plastic screw is for on the intake manifold. It's black plastic with a pointed end and about 1 ½ inches when taken off. Half of it broke inside my manifold. If anyone can tell me what this is … that’ll be great! Any precaution in getting it out? Or nothing to worry about and just drill it out?
#5
Posted 08 January 2010 - 05:40 PM
There is a black plastic knob on the throttle body that is used to set your base idle speed.
Maybe heat up the end of a screwdriver and force it into the remainder then back it out.
Maybe heat up the end of a screwdriver and force it into the remainder then back it out.














