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What Cylinder Head To Use For Best Performance With 2.3L Block?


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#21 mdlimy

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 11:54 PM

View PostCaptain Bondo, on 11 January 2010 - 11:23 PM, said:



Cam timing needs to be load and RPM dependent. Using only one or the other, I'd use RPM before I used load, but really you need to use both for it to work well.

which is why we say fuck it and ditch the cvvt :lol:

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View PostJVC, on 13 March 2012 - 05:56 AM, said:

You sir... just keep on winning...




#22 Hanks

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 12:01 AM

View Postmdlimy5, on 11 January 2010 - 11:54 PM, said:

which is why we say fuck it and ditch the cvvt :lol:


i needs pictures from post above. this may be easier than we think...

#23 Captain Bondo

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 12:34 AM

I replaced the VVT hub with a solid machined part when I swapped non-vvt cams into my VVT head:

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#24 troyhyde

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:02 AM

Timely subject, I've been kicking around the option to buy an '01 2.3-T5 engine w/ turbo and manifolds. Obviously I'd swap the intake if stuffing it into an 850. What exactly do I do to the exhaust cam/VVT to get it to use a typical cam sensor style pickup? Ditto the intake cam for a rotor/cap. Engine is coil on plug so not sure what the distributor end looks like.
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#25 Captain Bondo

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:22 AM

The rear ends of the cams are the same.

#26 HtownTurboBrick

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:26 AM

View Posttroyhyde, on 12 January 2010 - 03:02 AM, said:

Timely subject, I've been kicking around the option to buy an '01 2.3-T5 engine w/ turbo and manifolds. Obviously I'd swap the intake if stuffing it into an 850. What exactly do I do to the exhaust cam/VVT to get it to use a typical cam sensor style pickup? Ditto the intake cam for a rotor/cap. Engine is coil on plug so not sure what the distributor end looks like.
Mounting points still exist since it's still the original white block casting, the only thing you really need to do is drill the cam shaft for the rotor, it's easy enough to do. I just left the VVT unplugged and alone, it doesn't do anything.
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#27 Hanks

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 05:01 AM

Turbo tuner is coming out with coil on plug support soon too :D

#28 mdlimy

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 05:23 AM

View PostHanks, on 12 January 2010 - 05:01 AM, said:

Turbo tuner is coming out with coil on plug support soon too :D

wondering when that was going to happen, thats going to be a real selling point for ALOT of people.

Kenny, what did you block off the solenoids with?

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View PostJVC, on 13 March 2012 - 05:56 AM, said:

You sir... just keep on winning...


#29 Captain Bondo

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 05:37 AM

I wonder how the coil on plug will work - I guess it will use some spare outputs on the Me4 ECU and you'll have to wire them to ignitors or something. Doesn't seem like it would be straightforward to me...

I just made a plate that bolted on where the solenoid used to be.

#30 mdlimy

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 05:43 AM

View PostCaptain Bondo, on 12 January 2010 - 05:37 AM, said:

I wonder how the coil on plug will work - I guess it will use some spare outputs on the Me4 ECU and you'll have to wire them to ignitors or something. Doesn't seem like it would be straightforward to me...

I just made a plate that bolted on where the solenoid used to be.

o ok, wasnt sure if you had some pretty milled piece :P
Using the regular cvvt hub without the use of cvvt wont cause any problems in the long run in theory would it?

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View PostJVC, on 13 March 2012 - 05:56 AM, said:

You sir... just keep on winning...


#31 Johann

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 07:35 AM

View PostCaptain Bondo, on 12 January 2010 - 12:34 AM, said:

I replaced the VVT hub with a solid machined part when I swapped non-vvt cams into my VVT head:

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When using the non VVT cam you could have used an intake pulley to make it work.

With my S60 I made a similar setup but fitted to the VVT intake cam.

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#32 AthruC

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 02:11 PM

I did just think of/realize something. If you are actually using VVT on the intake cam, wouldn't that start to make the firing of the plugs a bit screwy with a cap/rotor setup? I'm guessing you'd need a coilpack setup to make that work properly?
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#33 Captain Bondo

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 04:14 PM

Johann -
The non-vvt gear actually didn't 't fit becuase the cam seal on that side is different, and the head casting hit the inside of the cam gear.

The S80 motor uses unique cam pullies though - larger than 5 cylinder gears (960's use the same size gears as 850's, too). It's possible that what you suggest will work on a 5 cylinder but I can't say for sure. The T6 has several (annoying) differences form the 5's, it's quite wierd.

Also when I say "bigger" I mean the gears actually have more teeth, they aren't just wider. Caught me by suprize.

#34 Hanks

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 07:20 PM

though I would post some of Johann's info here...

View PostJohann, on 12 January 2010 - 06:53 PM, said:


For leaving the solenoid in place unconnected or only using a blocking plate,

Well.. This is only from first hand experience.

The VVT unit uses a tripple gear system where one gear is integrated in the outside housing connected to the cam gear, one gear integrated in the center part connected to the cam and one double faced gear in between moving up and down. or back and forth, using hydraulics. The hydraulics is the engine's oil system and the solenoid can redirect oil to the front or the rear of this gear. Once the gear reached it's position, and this is where i'm not 100% sure how it works, the solenoid is placed in such a way that the gear won't move again. In a timed event the position is being guarded and corrected when needed. There is also a spring load in the unit to help the gear and to push it to it's starting position.

The solenoid is a step motor operating a slide valve AFAIK. When disconnecting the solenoid can't slide the valve but the variation in oil pressure and the channeling used could cause the VVT unit to change position when not continuously guarded. When removing the solenoid and putting a blocking plate in place the oil can't reach the VVT unit anymore so over time it might change position.

I have driven my S60 for a short while with a disconnected solenoid and I was under the impression that the behavior of the engine wasn't always the same. One day there was low end, the other day there was less. This in combination with a non intake VVT aware ME7.
Shortly after I fabricated a flange replacing the VVT unit to make it a fixed cam and I installed a blocking plate and the engine behavior was consistent after that but needs some adjustment still, haven't worked on the car for a while. I have used the rear slit of the VVT cam as a reference like it was a non VVT cam but it appears this slit has a different reference angle.

Some pics of what we are talking about,

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#35 lookforjoe

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 11:19 PM

View Postajhehr, on 11 January 2010 - 09:27 PM, said:

I know at least the 2000 v70r uses 7mm valve stems instead of the smaller 6mm on the early.
both are sodium filled to my knowledge.

the later solid lifter head flows more stock then my hydraulic lifter head with full gasket match and port and polish. I always hesitate to say flow numbers in CFM because there is so much variance in between flow benches.

on the same flow bench though our solid lifter heads at least in static flow is comparable to your honda k20a2 head, where our head lacks vs the honda is in the cam profiles.


What year went to solid lifters? 2000?
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#36 Captain Bondo

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 11:27 PM

Volvo's changes seem to be running changes and it can be hard to tell exactly when a change was done. My 2000 V70R has solid, but I have heard some 2000's were hydro. I would expect the majority of 2000+ to be solid though, yeah.

#37 lookforjoe

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Posted 14 January 2010 - 05:24 PM

View PostCaptain Bondo, on 12 January 2010 - 11:27 PM, said:

Volvo's changes seem to be running changes and it can be hard to tell exactly when a change was done. My 2000 V70R has solid, but I have heard some 2000's were hydro. I would expect the majority of 2000+ to be solid though, yeah.


Well. at least I don't feel so bad - I just recently junked a '99 XC - and didn't bother saving the head :rolleyes:
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#38 JoshV70

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Posted 14 January 2010 - 05:32 PM

View PostHanks, on 11 January 2010 - 05:10 PM, said:

2001-2004
2001-2004 2.3 T5 Single VVT
2001-2004 2.4 LPT Single VVT
2005-2009 2.4 T5 Dual VVT
2003-2009 2.5 LPT Dual VVT
2004-2009 2.5 S60R Dual VVT


Fixed it.

#39 SlapShot

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Posted 14 January 2010 - 05:38 PM

This thread is definitely something to think about now that my car's running again and my old motor is just sitting in the garage with bent valves.

IDK whether its a good idea to save the block or get something newer assuming i still want to build in a year or so...

But if i have the info right, the 2.3L block can be modified to support a newer head? '03 for example... and with subsequent modifications to camshaft, manifold etc...still run ME 4.4 on distributor/rotor.
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#40 Hanks

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Posted 14 January 2010 - 06:03 PM

View PostJoshV70, on 14 January 2010 - 05:32 PM, said:

Fixed it.
thanks.




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