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Evap Code P0440 On 1995 Volvo T-5R


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#1 TheSwedeSpotRVA

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Posted 01 February 2010 - 09:30 PM

I have a 95 t-5r that persistently throws the 0440 egr code. This car is running an ecu from a 1996 R car (also upsolute tuned) with otherwise great results. First of all is it the difference in year between them that is causing this code? Can I remove/modify the EGR system, or perhaps tune the ecu to delete the EGR so that I don't get the code? Second, if the above is NOT the case, what should be my next step in getting this light to stop coming on. I have replaced most of the egr line, straight and elbow connectors, and the pressure sensor/vacuum controller solenoid that rests under the radiator shroud. Next I suppose I'll replace the EGR temperature sensor, EGR Valve (If I can FIND them) and the charcoal canister. I did see that there are two parts the 96 850 uses in its EGR system that are not found on the 95 model: an EGR air pump valve and an evap purge valve. Can I add these two components and cure the code? What would be my best option at this point? Just keep clearing the code over and over with my handy pocket 0BDII reader? Grrrr

1995 Yellow T-5R: Fresh paint, OEM 2009 18x8 Mirzam rims, IPD stage III tune, 18 psi, OBX 3 in. dp/2.5 in. mandrel catless exhaust, 18T w/ported angled hotside, Garrett wg actuator, white-top injectors, Greddy type R BOV, Sconeman post-mafs pipe, K & N X-Stream filter, FCP Groton silicone intercooler hoses, MSD Blaster coil, NXS MBC, Glowshift WB A/F gauge, H & R Lowering springs, Bilsteins, OBX strut tower brace.




#2 TheSwedeSpotRVA

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Posted 01 February 2010 - 09:45 PM

I have a 95 t-5r that persistently throws the 0440 egr code. This car is running an ecu from a 1996 R car (also upsolute tuned) with otherwise great results. First of all is it the difference in year between them that is causing this code? Can I remove/modify the EGR system, or perhaps tune the ecu to delete the EGR so that I don't get the code? Second, if the above is NOT the case, what should be my next step in getting this light to stop coming on. I have replaced most of the egr line, straight and elbow connectors, and the pressure sensor/vacuum controller solenoid that rests under the radiator shroud. Next I suppose I'll replace the EGR temperature sensor, EGR Valve (If I can FIND them) and the charcoal canister. I did see that there are two parts the 96 850 uses in its EGR system that are not found on the 95 model: an EGR air pump valve and an evap purge valve. Can I add these two components and cure the code? What would be my best option at this point? Just keep clearing the code over and over with my handy pocket 0BDII reader? Grrrr



Oh yeah, and on the flip side of adding components from the 96 year model EGR system if necessary, are there also ones which should be removed from the 95 system? thanks!!! B)

1995 Yellow T-5R: Fresh paint, OEM 2009 18x8 Mirzam rims, IPD stage III tune, 18 psi, OBX 3 in. dp/2.5 in. mandrel catless exhaust, 18T w/ported angled hotside, Garrett wg actuator, white-top injectors, Greddy type R BOV, Sconeman post-mafs pipe, K & N X-Stream filter, FCP Groton silicone intercooler hoses, MSD Blaster coil, NXS MBC, Glowshift WB A/F gauge, H & R Lowering springs, Bilsteins, OBX strut tower brace.


#3 TheSwedeSpotRVA

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Posted 02 February 2010 - 02:36 AM

Bump?

1995 Yellow T-5R: Fresh paint, OEM 2009 18x8 Mirzam rims, IPD stage III tune, 18 psi, OBX 3 in. dp/2.5 in. mandrel catless exhaust, 18T w/ported angled hotside, Garrett wg actuator, white-top injectors, Greddy type R BOV, Sconeman post-mafs pipe, K & N X-Stream filter, FCP Groton silicone intercooler hoses, MSD Blaster coil, NXS MBC, Glowshift WB A/F gauge, H & R Lowering springs, Bilsteins, OBX strut tower brace.


#4 JordanW

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Posted 02 February 2010 - 02:48 AM

P0440 is an EVAP code. NOT EGR. They are 2 completely different systems. Frequently evap codes can come from broken, rotted, and torn rubber connectors on the plastic lines that run from the EVAP purge valve, to the charcoal canister, the connector by the front sub-frame to chassis on the right side, to the roll over valve, and sometimes on the vent on the tank itself. Also common are pluged and sticking EVAP purge valves, located on the fan shroud.

You have 3 different systems you are talking about; the EVAP - Evaporative emissions - unburnt "gas" fumes from the tank; EGR - Exhaust gas recirculation, takes spent exhaust gases from the manifold and meters it and induces it into the intake manifold; SAS - Secondary air system - Uses a air pump to inject ambient air into the exhaust usually during cold starts to improve cat. efficency.

If you are getting P0440, I would start with the EVAP purge valve, clean it out, make sure it's connected, then check your vacuum lines to and from it.
*-J-*
1998 S70 N/A196K - stock; 1996 850R - ARD M4.4Green tune, R exhuast manifold, NA TB w/960 plate, Bilstein HD's, C70'vert subframe, RIP kit, custom HD TCV, SNABB Intake pipe, Kilen springs, lots more...

#5 TheSwedeSpotRVA

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Posted 02 February 2010 - 07:25 AM

P0440 is an EVAP code. NOT EGR. They are 2 completely different systems. Frequently evap codes can come from broken, rotted, and torn rubber connectors on the plastic lines that run from the EVAP purge valve, to the charcoal canister, the connector by the front sub-frame to chassis on the right side, to the roll over valve, and sometimes on the vent on the tank itself. Also common are pluged and sticking EVAP purge valves, located on the fan shroud.

You have 3 different systems you are talking about; the EVAP - Evaporative emissions - unburnt "gas" fumes from the tank; EGR - Exhaust gas recirculation, takes spent exhaust gases from the manifold and meters it and induces it into the intake manifold; SAS - Secondary air system - Uses a air pump to inject ambient air into the exhaust usually during cold starts to improve cat. efficency.

If you are getting P0440, I would start with the EVAP purge valve, clean it out, make sure it's connected, then check your vacuum lines to and from it.


Well I worked on both systems I guess, mistakenly thinking they were related. The evap purge valve is what I have replaced then...tried two different units. I also switched out the rubber connectors and yellow and white plastic lines running together from the evap purge valve up to the two nipples on that area near the intake where the constant idle thing is located (under the black plastic cover). I also replaced the lines and elbow connectors to the charcoal canister. So I guess my last resort is the charcoal canister? Any thoughts on whether the code could be from the 96 computer in a 95 car? If so is there any way to modify it so the code will go away? Thanks

1995 Yellow T-5R: Fresh paint, OEM 2009 18x8 Mirzam rims, IPD stage III tune, 18 psi, OBX 3 in. dp/2.5 in. mandrel catless exhaust, 18T w/ported angled hotside, Garrett wg actuator, white-top injectors, Greddy type R BOV, Sconeman post-mafs pipe, K & N X-Stream filter, FCP Groton silicone intercooler hoses, MSD Blaster coil, NXS MBC, Glowshift WB A/F gauge, H & R Lowering springs, Bilsteins, OBX strut tower brace.


#6 Ihatespeedbumps

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 02:07 AM

If you have swapped Evap valves, it might be time to look for a leak. Charcoal canisters typically only fail when you top of the fuel tank continually and saturate the canister, which can cause the engine to suck raw fuel. If your not a topper upper... look past the canister.

I suspect one of the hoses on top of the fuel tank has split, and is causing an evap leak. The best way to check for a leak would be smoke testing or using some sort of metered air and watching for a pressure drop. If you don't have access to that equipment you can get under the car and inspect the fuel tank for stains, which would indicate a fuel leak. Alternately, you can remove the fuel pump cover and use a flashlight and mirror to look for split hoses.

I don't think there are any differences between 95 and 96 evap systems, but I'm not 100% certain either. Did the DTC occur right after installing the 96 ECU?

I will edit the title of your thread so you might get more responses.

04 V70R Flash Green/Atacama 6MT


#7 POSTITSORGTFO

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 02:10 AM

smoke test

2013 Buick Regal 2001 V70XC-M66 1998 C70 GT


#8 troyhyde

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 02:47 AM

Replace the gas cap before proceeding. Most common fix.
'95 Turbo Wagon, Dreaming of Stage 0

#9 cheapwagon

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 02:54 AM

Replace the gas cap before proceeding. Most common fix.

took care of my P0440

As for the cute little interest thing, i dont replace anything. Its called cleaning the system..


#10 Ihatespeedbumps

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 02:56 AM

Replace the gas cap before proceeding. Most common fix.



Forgot to mention that :unsure:

04 V70R Flash Green/Atacama 6MT


#11 TheSwedeSpotRVA

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 03:16 AM

I've replaced the gas cap with two different onee, made sure I clicked it 6-7 times, checked the filler neck, etc. So next I will try to look at the gas tank myself as was suggested above and look for wet spots....grrrrrr CEL's

1995 Yellow T-5R: Fresh paint, OEM 2009 18x8 Mirzam rims, IPD stage III tune, 18 psi, OBX 3 in. dp/2.5 in. mandrel catless exhaust, 18T w/ported angled hotside, Garrett wg actuator, white-top injectors, Greddy type R BOV, Sconeman post-mafs pipe, K & N X-Stream filter, FCP Groton silicone intercooler hoses, MSD Blaster coil, NXS MBC, Glowshift WB A/F gauge, H & R Lowering springs, Bilsteins, OBX strut tower brace.


#12 JordanW

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 04:08 AM

Here is some insight for you on your P0440 Hope it helps. The below was found at: http://www.volvoclub...0techdocs.shtml



Code 3-1-5 (EVAP System)

1) Check for other codes. If Code 5-4-1 is also present,

check that code first. If Code 5-4-1 is not present, go to next step.

2) Start and run engine at idle. Remove vacuum hose between

EVAP valve and intake manifold. If vacuum is present in hose, go to

next step. If vacuum is not present in hose, check for obstruction.

Also check hose connection to intake manifold.

3) Start and run engine at idle. Connect hose between EVAP

valve and intake manifold to EVAP valve. Remove hose between EVAP

valve and canister from EVAP valve. If there is no vacuum in EVAP

valve when valve is not activated, go to next step. If there is

vacuum, retest using new EVAP valve.

4) Start and run engine at idle. Disconnect hose between EVAP

valve and canister at EVAP valve. Check if there is vacuum in EVAP

valve when valve is activated. If there is vacuum, go to next step. If

there is no vacuum, retest using new EVAP valve.

5) Start and run engine at idle. Connect vacuum hose between

EVAP valve and canister to EVAP valve. Remove vacuum hose between EVAP

valve and canister from canister. Check if there is vacuum in hose

when EVAP valve is activated. If there is vacuum, check if all

canister inlets and outlets are okay. Repair as necessary. If inlets

and outlets are okay, fault is intermittent. Go to next step. If no

vacuum is present, check for obstruction in hose between EVAP valve

and canister.

6) Check hose between EVAP valve and intake manifold, and

between EVAP valve and canister for an obstruction. Check canister

connections to ensure they are not clogged. Check EVAP valve for dirt

or deposits. Repair as necessary. If no faults can be found, test

system using new EVAP valve.






Code 5-4-1 (EVAP Signal)

1) Check status message on Volvo Scan Tool (998-8686). If

fault is permanent and signal is too high, go to step 2). If fault is

PERMANENT, SIGNAL TOO LOW, go to step 3). If fault is INTERMITTENT,

SIGNAL TOO HIGH, go to step 7). If fault is INTERMITTENT, SIGNAL TOO

LOW, go to step 8).

2) Turn ignition off. Disconnect EVAP valve. Connect ohmmeter

between EVAP valve connector terminals No. 1 and 2. If ohmmeter reads

about 26 ohms, check wiring between EVAP valve connector terminal No.

2 and ECM terminal A39 for a short circuit to voltage. If ohmmeter

does not read 26 ohms, retest using new EVAP valve.

3) Turn ignition off. Disconnect EVAP valve. Turn ignition

on. Connect voltmeter between EVAP valve connector, terminal No. 1,

and ground. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step. If

voltmeter does not read battery voltage, check wiring between EVAP

valve connector terminal No. 1 and main relay connector terminal No. 3

for an open circuit.

4) Turn ignition off. Wait about 2 seconds. Disconnect EVAP

valve. Connect ohmmeter between EVAP valve connector terminal No. 2

and ground. If ohmmeter reads 25-40 k/ohms, go to next step. If

ohmmeter reads infinite resistance, go to step 6). If ohmmeter reads

about zero ohms, check wiring between EVAP valve connector terminal

No. 2 and ECM terminal A39 for a short circuit to ground.

5) Turn ignition off. Disconnect EVAP valve connector.

Connect ohmmeter between EVAP valve connector terminals No. 1 and 2.

If ohmmeter reads about 26 ohms, code is caused by poor contact in

EVAP and/or ECM connector. Repair as necessary. If ohmmeter does not

read about 26 ohms, retest using new EVAP valve.

6) Turn ignition off. Disconnect EVAP valve connector.

Disconnect ECM. Ensure ECM connector terminals are clean and make good

terminal contact. Repair as necessary. Connect ohmmeter between EVAP

valve connector terminal No. 2 and ground. If ohmmeter reads 25-40

k/ohms, code is caused by poor contact at ECM connector. If ohmmeter

does not read 25-40 k/ohms, check wiring between EVAP valve connector

terminal No. 2 and ECM terminal A39 for an open circuit.

7) If fault is intermittent and signal is too high, check

wiring between EVAP valve connector terminal No. 2 and ECM terminal

A39 for an intermittent short circuit to voltage. Repair as necessary.

8) If fault is intermittent and signal is too low, check EVAP

valve and ECM connector for loose connection or contact resistance.

Check wiring between EVAP valve connector terminal No. 1 and main

relay connector terminal No. 3 for an intermittent open circuit. Also

check wiring between EVAP valve connector terminal No. 2 and ECM

terminal A39 for an intermittent open circuit or short circuit to

ground.


*-J-*
1998 S70 N/A196K - stock; 1996 850R - ARD M4.4Green tune, R exhuast manifold, NA TB w/960 plate, Bilstein HD's, C70'vert subframe, RIP kit, custom HD TCV, SNABB Intake pipe, Kilen springs, lots more...

#13 TheSwedeSpotRVA

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 12:02 PM

WOW, thanks! I don't have any other codes. I'll get to work on this testing proc. and post results.

1995 Yellow T-5R: Fresh paint, OEM 2009 18x8 Mirzam rims, IPD stage III tune, 18 psi, OBX 3 in. dp/2.5 in. mandrel catless exhaust, 18T w/ported angled hotside, Garrett wg actuator, white-top injectors, Greddy type R BOV, Sconeman post-mafs pipe, K & N X-Stream filter, FCP Groton silicone intercooler hoses, MSD Blaster coil, NXS MBC, Glowshift WB A/F gauge, H & R Lowering springs, Bilsteins, OBX strut tower brace.







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