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Hydraulic Mount Replacement


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#1 MyCarIsRed

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Posted 17 July 2010 - 12:54 PM

Maybe it's a silly question, but I'm replacing both hydraulic mounts today (hopefully). Does it matter which i should do first? Will it make it easier to do front then rear? front seems to be more worn, about 3/8" between trans and bump stop. Not feeling frame hits, but they're the only old mounts left and the vibration is noticable.

and the 2nd silly question, can i replace them without fully jacking the car up (wheels off ground)? The car is currently in the only shady spot around i can work in B) , and it's a bit of a slope. I'd love to be able to work under the tree, but I wonder if the car will stay "down" as I jack the engine up.

thoughts?



#2 the commissar!

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 03:07 PM

Maybe it's a silly question, but I'm replacing both hydraulic mounts today (hopefully). Does it matter which i should do first? Will it make it easier to do front then rear? front seems to be more worn, about 3/8" between trans and bump stop. Not feeling frame hits, but they're the only old mounts left and the vibration is noticable.

and the 2nd silly question, can i replace them without fully jacking the car up (wheels off ground)? The car is currently in the only shady spot around i can work in B) , and it's a bit of a slope. I'd love to be able to work under the tree, but I wonder if the car will stay "down" as I jack the engine up.

thoughts?


I don't think it matters which you do first but I don't think you can do it without jacking the car up and placing on jack stands or running it up on ramps. You will be spending lots of quality time under the car...Posted Image
1998 V70 T-5 -Auto - ARD Blue & Turbo-Tuner,18T, HD TCVw/ Hallman Pro MBC, custom 3" DP w/ Volvo 2.75" sport catback - both wrapped and coated, RIP, IPD aluminum intercooler, intake w/ K&N cone, R ex. manifold, , gasket matched & polished intake manifold w/ thermoblock spacer, n/a TB w/ 960 plate, Optima bluetop, MSD 6aD and blaster coil, IPD plug wires, IPD poly bushing, Koni FSD w/ Eibach springs, IPD sways 25mm x 25 mm, blue silicone vac, silicone coolant lines, custom intake tubes grill to turbo, skid plate, front lower brace, cherry turbo strut brace, HD endlinks, 302mm brakes, Zeitronix wide-band/data-logger, Walbro w/variable fpr. In process: Home grown HD Endlinks, Meth/H2O injection, greens, catch can, fully built 2.3.

#3 Keaton85

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 03:59 PM

Why are you bothering to replace the hydraulic mounts? They are very rare to fail!

#4 T5-Craig

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 05:24 PM

Why are you bothering to replace the hydraulic mounts? They are very rare to fail!


Agreed, I replaced mine only to find that they were still in great shape. I was under the car for about 5 hours and they are not easy to replace. I found it hard to get the old mount out, as well as putting the new ones in correctly. Unless you pull a lot of other parts off and out of the way (I didn't) it will take along time. I had a friend helping out as well.

That said I used ramps, you need to get right under the car - also make sure to use a 2x4 or some other wood plank to jack the engine from the oil pan. I also had to un-connect the other two mounts (top torque and pass side engine) to get the motor to lift.

All said and done my vibration was cause by a busted muffler hanger if you beleive it. 5 hours labour and hundreds in parts to find out that it was a 10 buck fix. At least I can say that the mounts were replaced if I sell the car! Good luck, but make sure you need to do them, I would look over, and under the car carefully before I spend the time and money. But if your going to do it I would replace the trans torque mount as well, and the only mount that was actully failed on my car was the passanger side engine mount, I replaced that a few months back when I put the re-maned steering rack in.

Cheers, PM me if you get stuck I was doing this job 3 weeks ago.

BTW S70 T5 with 280,000Km (175,000 Miles)

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#5 Keaton85

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 05:29 PM

I've never seen a bad one and I would never recommend wasting the time on them. Spend your time and money on parts that do fail.

#6 T5-Craig

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 05:34 PM

I've never seen a bad one and I would never recommend wasting the time on them. Spend your time and money on parts that do fail.


After wastig my time and money, I have to agree with binglax09 100%

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#7 Ihatespeedbumps

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 06:03 PM

Why are you bothering to replace the hydraulic mounts? They are very rare to fail!



bullshit. compare the height of a new one vs a used one. They are rarely replaced, they fail often.

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#8 gilber33

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 06:06 PM

bullshit. compare the height of a new one vs a used one. They are rarely replaced, they fail often.


Yeah, when I pulled out my old rear mount it was about an inch shorter than the new one I put in. And I used to have a problem with my OBX rattling against the center brace underneath my car, hasn't done that since I replaced the mount, that's how big of a difference it made. So to say that they don't fail over time is false.

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#9 Ihatespeedbumps

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 06:08 PM

Yeah, when I pulled out my old rear mount it was about an inch shorter than the new one I put in. And I used to have a problem with my OBX rattling against the center brace underneath my car, hasn't done that since I replaced the mount, that's how big of a difference it made. So to say that they don't fail over time is false.


:tup:

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#10 T5-Craig

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 07:04 PM

I'm dumb. compare the height of a new one vs a used one. They are rarely replaced, they fail often.


Hmmm. I wish I could edit my prevous post, now that you mention it - and I start to think about it, the steal wire that is around the hydraulic mounts on the old ones had clearly extra slack (it makes sence if your looking at a mount). To be honest I never took the time to side by side compare the new to the old mounts, but in hindsight the old ones were clearly compressed.

I don't want to spred mis-information about mounts failing or not failing, so I will pull my dog out of that show. I can speak to the fact that the mounts were a total PITA to change out.

Good luck with the job!

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#11 Keaton85

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 07:22 PM

On the hundreds of these cars I've owned and worked on I have never seem or had an issue with one. There will always be a height difference from old to new as the new ones have never had pressure on it.

#12 gilber33

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 08:17 PM

On the hundreds of these cars I've owned and worked on I have never seem or had an issue with one. There will always be a height difference from old to new as the new ones have never had pressure on it.


Right, there is a height difference because the old one was obviously compressed and the new one isn't, but like I said, the new mount had raised my engine enough that my exhaust no longer rattles on the center brace, and after a couple weeks, it still doesn't.

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#13 MyCarIsRed

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 08:56 PM

Yep. The oil pan is lower than it should be, and after replacing all the other mounts (read ALL - save for one of the 4 subframe bushings) the weakness of the old mounts on this 173k new england road beast is very obvious. If the subframe bushings were beat (which also "never" happens :P ) it only makes sense that something was absorbing more than it should.

I'm not looking forward to it... my help last weekend did not show up, so I'll be spending this weekend on it if all goes well... still crossing fingers that I can get at my friend's lift.

After the front I'll be turning to the rear bushings, just in time to need to do my timing belt :unsure:

#14 Pops Racer

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 09:05 PM

shiit when I got my car, one of em had lost allv its gel, and was useless. I paid my indy to do it,and he said both were near shot. New England car with 125 k at the time.

Hey, it happens.
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#15 the commissar!

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 01:56 PM

Mine were toast when I changed them at ~ 200,000miles. I could tell a big difference in the height of the motor/tranny compared to the sub frame. Pre change the tranny was actually resting on the rubber bumpstop lightly. Afterword there was nearly an inch clearance.

I changed them again when I did a motor swap after ~85k...they were still ok but I did not want to do that again any time soon and it was MUCH easier with the motor already out. Plus if those are worn, the other mounts are subject to increased wear.
1998 V70 T-5 -Auto - ARD Blue & Turbo-Tuner,18T, HD TCVw/ Hallman Pro MBC, custom 3" DP w/ Volvo 2.75" sport catback - both wrapped and coated, RIP, IPD aluminum intercooler, intake w/ K&N cone, R ex. manifold, , gasket matched & polished intake manifold w/ thermoblock spacer, n/a TB w/ 960 plate, Optima bluetop, MSD 6aD and blaster coil, IPD plug wires, IPD poly bushing, Koni FSD w/ Eibach springs, IPD sways 25mm x 25 mm, blue silicone vac, silicone coolant lines, custom intake tubes grill to turbo, skid plate, front lower brace, cherry turbo strut brace, HD endlinks, 302mm brakes, Zeitronix wide-band/data-logger, Walbro w/variable fpr. In process: Home grown HD Endlinks, Meth/H2O injection, greens, catch can, fully built 2.3.

#16 Ihatespeedbumps

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 03:52 PM

On the hundreds of these cars I've owned and worked on I have never seem or had an issue with one. There will always be a height difference from old to new as the new ones have never had pressure on it.


If you haven't seen a bad hydraulic mount on an 850/X70 and you have worked on hundreds, I don't think I'd trust you to fill my washer fluid.

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#17 info2x

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 05:12 PM

Mine were toast when I changed them at ~ 200,000miles. I could tell a big difference in the height of the motor/tranny compared to the sub frame. Pre change the tranny was actually resting on the rubber bumpstop lightly. Afterword there was nearly an inch clearance.

I changed them again when I did a motor swap after ~85k...they were still ok but I did not want to do that again any time soon and it was MUCH easier with the motor already out. Plus if those are worn, the other mounts are subject to increased wear.


Where is this bump stop? I don't think I've ever noticed it and since I'll be under the car later I figured I'll give it a look.
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#18 Keaton85

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 05:31 PM

If you haven't seen a bad hydraulic mount on an 850/X70 and you have worked on hundreds, I don't think I'd trust you to fill my washer fluid.

I've never had the hydraulic mount cause a single issue. This is not a matter of my skill level and it's not cool questioning my integrity either. Also I still have not seen a real issue with the mount on here either. Other then the OBX clearence issue which is non-stock.

#19 Keaton85

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 05:46 PM

Where is this bump stop? I don't think I've ever noticed it and since I'll be under the car later I figured I'll give it a look.

It's under the tranny, popped into the subframe on the left side.

#20 850newb

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 07:28 PM

I just had to replace the rear hydro mount, 95 5 spd with 260k on it.

Now whether or not it was already seperated in half when I started the clutch job, or I tore it while jacking the engine up is another question. For what its worth there was zero fluid in it.
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