17 replies to this topic

[scooke]

No rhyme or reason to it, it seems. The car can start cold, or hot, after a long drive or short, facing uphill or downhill, low fuel tank or filled up, BUT, a few times a day when I turn the key (under any of the previous conditions) it sounds like it's turning over, coughs, then a whir/wheeze, and nothing. Usually after that there doesn't seem to be any turning over, just that whirring/wheezing sound, then followed by a clunk. If I left it sit for 15 seconds, I can hear the sound of it turning over, but again it doesn't catch. This process of trying to turn it on can last 2 minutes, all the way up to 20 minutes. Then, suddenly, full and proper ignition, it starts up, runs fine, no problems other than starting.

The whirring sound seems to be around the distributor. Can't tell where the clunk sound comes from. The battery is carrying a holding a charge as it should.

I don't know what its maintenance schedule was like, bought it used 6 months ago, this the only problem started a month ago.

I read somewhere to not use high-octance fuel as it could damage the fuel injectors, nor to use some kind of fuel injector cleaners. One time I inadvertently added half a tank of Super Supreme fuel, and, I think, these starting problems began shortly afterwards. Related?

I include an mp3 of the typical sounds.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Deimos]

I really doubt running half a tank of premium gas would do all this. If I recall correctly the manual actually says never to use under 90 octane... but N/A shouldn't really care. I've run everything from regular to premium in large quantities through three N/A whiteblocks, never had an issue with them based on fuel.

My best guess with symptoms that sporadic, something electrical.

[cn90]

Check the usual items:
- Sp plugs
- Distr Cap + Rotor
- Fuel Filter
- Pull codes to see, maybe ? MAF issues.

[Keep Calm Chive On]

are you autotragic? PNP? my moms jeep has a PNP issue & its like a old toilet you gotta jiggly the handle. Seems eletrical like everyone said so check your plugs wires cap rotor coil etc etc, check fuel pressure perhaps your FPR took a shit in that old toilet haha. ummm also injectors could be el cloggo.

wow, FPR take a shit in the toilet & clogs an injector. it doesnt work even when you giggle the handle, get the plunger. randomness summation rant... over...

[mrbrightside2009]

Yep, Look at me, I think I am witty. I looked up what PNP is, I think I know now, but what the heck is with the imagery and FPR (what is the FPR, I googled it but though everyone uses the acronym it was clear what part of teh fuel system it is.)? You lost me there.

fuel pressure regulator.

[Keep Calm Chive On]

sorry for the mental imagrey... if you ask around im refered to as "special" or as sean put it... "new english" but yes

Could be anything eletrical but as you said you tested spark etc etc i would start to look into switches such as the PNP or maybe even the ignition cylinder itself? your getting signal to run the car as the starter engages. this leads me to believe either you start it for a very short period of time & it "mini hydro locks" your car. AKA lawn mower syndrom.

Are you prone to short trips? or a lot of on/off crap like oh move my car **on** 2 sec later okay done **off**?

FRP - Fuel pressure regulator yes but i kinda meant Fuel Pressure RELAY they are lovely pieces that i guess people have issues with "103" is on the top of it under your fusebox. I have a FS thread S70 Crap & Crapola there is one in the picture. im not pushing you to buy it im just saying thats what it looks like.

Check FUEL pressure itself. Take the little shrader valve off the fuel rail & get a Fuel pressure gauge

Check for fouled up plugs:
Sparkly Clean = Coolant Leak
Black & Charred = Carbon Build up
Excessive Gap = blowout
Tiny Gap = Burnt tip
Bent / broke = mechanical issue / pray

Ever run injector cleaner? could be a clogged injector. Do you run good gas? shitty gas?

old wires, all that crap

Basically from what youve gathered where it can take 2-20 min to start it through the whole ordeal im assuming you might have "lawn mower syndrom" where you start it & not run it long then it has a tendancy to not wanna start much after

Check compression

Let that baby warm up

for your imagry you liked... think of it this way...

play just the tip & see how long she still in the mood haha. you gotta get in it to win it

[Keep Calm Chive On]

its red & 103 like i said

[Reximus]

No rhyme or reason to it, it seems. The car can start cold, or hot, after a long drive or short, facing uphill or downhill, low fuel tank or filled up, BUT, a few times a day when I turn the key (under any of the previous conditions) it sounds like it's turning over, coughs, then a whir/wheeze, and nothing. Usually after that there doesn't seem to be any turning over, just that whirring/wheezing sound, then followed by a clunk. If I left it sit for 15 seconds, I can hear the sound of it turning over, but again it doesn't catch. This process of trying to turn it on can last 2 minutes, all the way up to 20 minutes. Then, suddenly, full and proper ignition, it starts up, runs fine, no problems other than starting.

The whirring sound seems to be around the distributor. Can't tell where the clunk sound comes from. The battery is carrying a holding a charge as it should.

I don't know what its maintenance schedule was like, bought it used 6 months ago, this the only problem started a month ago.

I read somewhere to not use high-octance fuel as it could damage the fuel injectors, nor to use some kind of fuel injector cleaners. One time I inadvertently added half a tank of Super Supreme fuel, and, I think, these starting problems began shortly afterwards. Related?

I include an mp3 of the typical sounds.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

it's your starter motor... the gear didn't throw out into the flywheel for engagement hence it's stuck. i have the exact same issue a while back. good luck

[AlvinL]

Maybe a bad connection or high resistance at the positive battery terminal. A good connection is needed for starting. That includes the grounds. The crimp is known to go bad over time. If the terminal gets hot while the engine is running, you know there's high resistance there. Maybe it's the sound of the starter noise from not enough juice?

[czar]

it's your starter motor... the gear didn't throw out into the flywheel for engagement hence it's stuck. i have the exact same issue a while back. good luck

+1
I am thinking starter motor..more basic than some of the other stuff mentioned.
The "clunk" is the tell tale sign. after the starter spins (the whirring) it winds down and stops suddenly
I have the same issue. only happens once in a while though. Hasn't been worth the thought of tearing out everything to get to the starter...yet

The coughing is probably due to the MAF needing a cleaning from all of the hard starts. http://volvospeed.co...our-air-sensor/
and cleaning/securing the MAF cable is a good idea, too. http://volvospeed.co.../maf_secure.php

LOADS of helpful stuff here: http://volvospeed.co...ds-for-repairs/
And here: http://volvospeed.co...intenance.shtml

And you car wants premium gasoline..but 87 is "acceptable" (according to our owner's manuals)

Welcome! and Good Luck!

[Keep Calm Chive On]

get a stick & give the starter a lil tap tap tapparoo. "starter stick of love" it looks like an alternator & we all know how they can get crudded up & stuff and that makes it difficult for it to engage. tap tap & usually it is good to go. we kept an old hickory stick in the back of our law mower at the town for this occasion

[scooke]

It was the started motor! Thanks for all your help!

[msnyderku]

Hey all,

I have the same issue with my V70 '98. Sounds like it will turn over then wheezes and clunks. Only happens every once in awhile, then sometimes it happens multiple times per day. Not correlated to temperature or usage or how long it has stood still. I've only really checked the electrical error codes and changed to synthetic oil, no luck. I am pretty much all green on car talk. I see from this forum that the starter motor was the culprit here.

I am trying to understand how big a deal it is to replace the starter motor... raw costs and associated labor... so if I take it to my mechanic here in Sweden and he speaks to me in broken English, I can make sure I have an idea of what is expected.

Any advice? My apologies for the novice jumping in on this forum, I could just really use some help, and being in a foreign country makes me feel a bit paralyzed on taking action!

Video link here of it not starting, but you need volume way up to here the engine action and clunk...




Mike

[cn90]

When this happens (intermittent stalling), unplug the MAF, if this solves the problem, then the MAF is bad.
If so, use only Bosch or Volvo brand MAF.
No aftermarket when it comes to MAF!

[thesameguy]

Could also be a crank sensor... no signal from the crank sensor means no injector pulses and no ignition.

You can pull a plug, ground the threads to the engine block somewhere, and have someone crank while you're watching. You should see bright blue/white spark across the gap. If you have or can borrow a noid light, you can see if you are getting a signal at the injectors.

I would start there, as between those two tests you will learn a lot about where the source of the problem might be. Any half-decent mechanic who understands fuel injection should be able to run those tests as well.

[optimus prime]

Un plug your engine coolent temp sensor and try to start it if it starts right up it was tjat sensor. I just went throught this with minelooked like it was reading fine but it was actually slightly off. Give it a shot it free to try and may solve your problem.