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Sas (Air Pump) Delete....write-Up With Pics


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#1 Volvo5.0

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Posted 17 November 2010 - 11:39 PM

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REMEMBER.... ANY TAMPERING WITH FACTORY EMISSIONS SYSTEMS IS A VIOLATION OF FEDERAL AND STATE LAWS. PERFORM THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK

There have been couple of threads lately http://volvospeed.co..._hl__sas delete and http://volvospeed.co...ng-luckys-idea/ that have discussed ways to delete the SAS (air pump). I suggest you read them for background. This will be strictly a write up of 2 ways to accomplish this.

This has been a joint effort with Volvospeed members IPD-Lucky and Flaco both contributing to this mod and obviously they both deserve a lot of the credit.


It appears that a diode (Radio Shack #1N4003) connected between pins A32 and A37 of the ECU will cause the ECU to "think" that the airpump system is fully operational. The only parts of the airpump system you need to LEAVE installed are the airpump relay and the solenoid valve. They both need to have there connectors connected. Everything else can be removed.

Here is a picture of the scematic showing what we are doing, notice the direction of the diode, that is important....

Posted Image

The mod can been done one of two ways. Either inside the ECU or in the harness directly below the ECU.

To do the wiring IN THE HARNESS UNDER THE ECU, first you need to prepare the diode (radio shack #1N4003). I soldered it to a short section of wire....

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Then attach a section of heat shrink to protect it and mark the direction that the current flows....

Posted Image....

Then remove the ECU and the plastic housing....

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Then you can access the harness and install the diode between A32 (GN-SB wire) and A37 (BL-P wire). DO NOT cut either of the wires. You can install the diode with a Scotch-Lock or the way I did it was to just slice away some of the insulation from the wire and solder the diode to it. Then I taped up the soldered connection. Just make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction....

Posted Image


Put it back together and that's it. I like doing it this way so the mod stays with the car, even if you swap ECU's. I would get a little nervous opening up a stage 3 IPD ECU that I just bought, to do it inside. Wouldn't want to chance screwing that up!

To do the wiring INSIDE THE ECU, first remove the ECU and open it up. Bend the 4 little tabs up. Then swing the hold down lever around and out of the way. You may need to pry it up slightly to do this....

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Once you're inside it's very simple, just find A32 and A37 and solder the diode in place. Again make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction....

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Secure the cover and re-install the ECU in the car. That's it!



I have one car with the wiring done under the ECU and one car with it done inside the ECU. They have only been done for a short time so I guess we'll say it's experimental at this point. The mod in this thread http://volvospeed.co...ng-luckys-idea/ was on my car for well over a month with no CEL. So it can also be done that way.
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#2 f1fanoly

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Posted 17 November 2010 - 11:47 PM

Awesome job,i've been watching this topic for a while now knowing my air pump is bad and not wanting to waste money fixing it.Off to get a diode,THANKS.
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#3 flyfishing3

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Posted 17 November 2010 - 11:55 PM

Good stuff

Nice work and write up
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#4 SKI-R

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:05 AM

More kudos - thanks!!
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#5 98t5M

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:36 AM

Has anybody checked the status of secondary air system readiness with a code scanner after doing this mod?
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#6 Keaton85

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 01:35 PM

removed

Edited by binglax09, 18 November 2010 - 02:35 PM.

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#7 cheapwagon

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 02:23 PM

Has anybody checked the status of secondary air system readiness with a code scanner after doing this mod?


That is a great question.
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As for the cute little interest thing, i dont replace anything. Its called cleaning the system..


#8 Keaton85

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 02:30 PM

REMOVED POST: I read the latest on the TDR topic...

I was just about to install a low-pass filter on the solenoid PWM wiring to activate the diode but this works a lot better haha :lol:

good work Volvo5.0

I will edit my last how-to to point to this topic. and P.S. I wasnt trying to get credit for your work when I said I would do a write up. I was just trying to help...

Update: Switched the diode over, so far it works. System runs on first start and no direct codes. Now I have to find a exhaust cap.

Edited by binglax09, 19 November 2010 - 12:35 AM.

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#9 andyb5

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 08:26 PM

Has anybody checked the status of secondary air system readiness with a code scanner after doing this mod?


I believe the OP ran the air pump test with a Volvo System Tester (VST) several times while testing the diode install on both cars without any problems.
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#10 Keaton85

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 02:16 AM

After about an hour or two of driving I scanned the vehicle. Came up with a pending P0455 code which is normal (it was on before) but no SAS pending and that is what I would have received ever time with the P0455 code. I will post back when the monitor status goes to ready....
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#11 lookforjoe

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 02:48 AM

Very Nice!

So, just to clarify the delay relay you were trying is not needed in this version?
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#12 Keaton85

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 02:57 AM

No delay relay needed for this. I already bought one and this came up!! Errr
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#13 Keaton85

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 05:20 AM

+1 for a working mod! I just scanned the system and the SAS monitor has passed. Thus it went through it's testing and set a status Ready! haha glad to see that system go green...

I soldered it into the ECU due to it being easier to access then under the tray.
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#14 bigmay850

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 07:43 AM

is this a fix for 0411 code?
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#15 Keaton85

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 01:59 PM

This should take care of it. I would test the air pump, vacuum solenoid and check the valve on the exhaust. Although by the time you get that all done you could have just done the diode mod.
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#16 crc1021

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Posted 30 November 2010 - 04:41 PM

What does this do for the P0410 code?

I have a 98 S70 GLT. I put a 2.3 and a 16T turbo in it. I have the OBX exhaust and I am throwing the P0410 code. I put the diode in the ecu and I reset the system with my code reader. After 40 miles I popped the same code again. I can hear my SAS pump kicking on occasionally, it is definitely bad with the whining noise that it is making. After the diode fix, I still hear it kicking on. Does it sound like I did something wrong with the install, or am I trying to fix the wrong problem? My inspection is due on Saturday and I will get another two weeks after if I fail, but I would love to pass the first time around. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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#17 beewerks

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Posted 30 November 2010 - 05:10 PM

Good stuff! Does anyone have a diagram of all of the parts that the SAS system uses in the car? I'm ready to do the mod, but I'm not sure what all I get to remove, and where they are.

Thanks!
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#18 Keaton85

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 02:26 AM

Unplug the pump and then unplug and block off the vacuum line from the tree. Simple way..

What does this do for the P0410 code?

I have a 98 S70 GLT. I put a 2.3 and a 16T turbo in it. I have the OBX exhaust and I am throwing the P0410 code. I put the diode in the ecu and I reset the system with my code reader. After 40 miles I popped the same code again. I can hear my SAS pump kicking on occasionally, it is definitely bad with the whining noise that it is making. After the diode fix, I still hear it kicking on. Does it sound like I did something wrong with the install, or am I trying to fix the wrong problem? My inspection is due on Saturday and I will get another two weeks after if I fail, but I would love to pass the first time around. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

You shouldn't have the pump plugged in an the vacuum line to the valve on the exhaust should be blocked off.

Edited by binglax09, 01 December 2010 - 02:25 AM.

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#19 Volvo5.0

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 04:34 AM

Good stuff! Does anyone have a diagram of all of the parts that the SAS system uses in the car? I'm ready to do the mod, but I'm not sure what all I get to remove, and where they are.

Thanks!


My air pump system was fully functional. I removed it when I installed my OBX exhaust. I didn't want to modify the DP (by adding a bung) to make provisions for the air pump. Also I hope to soon install a FMIC and removing the pump will free up space for that.

I removed everything except #18 the solenoid valve. Make sure you leave the electrical connection attached.....

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#20 Keaton85

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 01:58 PM

Can a resistor be added to the solenoid connection in place of it in order to make the computer think it's there?
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