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Sas (Air Pump) Delete....write-Up With Pics


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#201 gti4life

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:39 PM

Im thinking of doing this mod just so I can pass inspection.
can I just solder the diode in and leave everything else connected ?
don't really care to remove anything
Thanks!

My car is a 1996 volvo 950 non turbo



#202 Keaton85

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:40 PM

Im thinking of doing this mod just so I can pass inspection.
can I just solder the diode in and leave everything else connected ?
don't really care to remove anything
Thanks!

Did you even read a single post? come on...

#203 gti4life

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:43 PM

My car is a 1996 volvo 850 non turbo



#204 Fudge_Brownie

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:44 PM

Im thinking of doing this mod just so I can pass inspection.
can I just solder the diode in and leave everything else connected ?
don't really care to remove anything
Thanks!

- Relay is under the fuse cover, doesnt matter though as you don't need to mess with it.
- Yes, everything can be removed except the relay and the electrical connection to the solenoid
- Cruise control pump

All you need to know is the diode install and that the relay and solenoid need to be electrically connected. Everything else you can do what you want with, just keep the pump disconnected. EXTREMELY simple, don't over think it.

Read more ;)
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#205 gti4life

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:45 PM

Did you even read a single post? come on...


from what i read you said to remove everything except the relay & the solenoid, my point is that I don't really want to remove anything if I don't have to ?

#206 Keaton85

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:47 PM

All you need to know is the diode install and that the relay and solenoid need to be electrically connected. Everything else you can do what you want with, just keep the pump disconnected. EXTREMELY simple, don't over think it.

Idono how else to explain the english that I speak of....

#207 gti4life

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:47 PM

Read more ;)

THank you thats what I was looking for
I will just install the diode and unplug the pump

THanks!

#208 Jason Johannessen

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 05:03 PM

Just did this on my 98 turbo xc. Took 5 minutes. No problems to report. Thanks for detailing this!

#209 optimus prime

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 01:03 AM

so do i have to unplug the pump or can i just leave it be?

1998 S70 NA
1997 850 GLT 

 

 


#210 Keaton85

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 01:51 AM

- Relay is under the fuse cover, doesnt matter though as you don't need to mess with it.
- Yes, everything can be removed except the relay and the electrical connection to the solenoid
- Cruise control pump

All you need to know is the diode install and that the relay and solenoid need to be electrically connected. Everything else you can do what you want with, just keep the pump disconnected. EXTREMELY simple, don't over think it.



#211 mjmoore

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 08:35 PM

Soldering a diode from A32 and A37 wires in the ECU works. No SAS code.

#212 peppuz

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 11:34 AM

If I'm reading correctly, this write up would apply to the '97 850. Has there been any success in finding a similar modification for the '96 850? Or perhaps I'm stuck with replacing the air pump?
Thanks in advance.

#213 Volvo5.0

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 01:58 PM

If I'm reading correctly, this write up would apply to the '97 850. Has there been any success in finding a similar modification for the '96 850? Or perhaps I'm stuck with replacing the air pump?
Thanks in advance.


The SAS mod works on cars with Motronic 4.4. '96 was a split year, turbos were all M4.3 (I think) and N/A's could go either way. Don't think M4.3 used an air pump. If the car has an air pump, it's M4.4 and the mod should work.

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#214 revolvolution98s70

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 05:27 PM

ok, so ive been running around for 12k miles with the delete working properly. i still have all the parts in but pump disconnected and a few of the lines are out and plugged up. im thinking about taking everything out. i did a rad replacement and the air pump was a pain to work around. i know i can remove everything but the solenoid, but id like to know how to plug the line that goes to the exhaust if i take it out the valve above the turbo. it seems to be a metal tube and not sure if its safe to simply put a rubber plug on the exhaust after i take the whole system out. how did you guys go about it and have you run into inspection problems when the obvious valve is missing?

#215 Yellow95

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 05:29 PM

If you put a rubber plug in the downpipe you will have a smelly smoky mess.

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#216 revolvolution98s70

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 05:35 PM

http://i990.photobuc...ete/Airpump.jpg

im talking about parts 10, 11, 12 ,13 and 34. if both the inlets to the valve are plugged up, its pretty obvious, so id like to take it out completely. so at part 34, what do i do?

#217 Keaton85

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 05:59 PM

Put a M16 drain plug in there and call it a day. you can get them at advance auto parts, pretty cheap.

I don't use a washer since it rusts itself on there and never had any come loose on any vehicles.

#218 Fudge_Brownie

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 06:00 PM

I just removed this (and everything else except the solenoid :))

That part 34, the SAS valve pipe is a bitch. I soaked it in PBblaster 3 days in a row, had the engine completely out of the car, and still found breaking that thing loose from the downpipe was difficult. And I was torching it.

Recommendation is to soak, and then torch the outer base of the downpipe with a blowtorch just before you remove it. This will heat up the metal, expanding it and usually helps remove stuck parts. Again, the goal is to heat the downpipe area, not the 'bolt' itself, because you want to expand the hole, not the bolt. I planned to find a bolt or bung plug to screw in there but didn't come across one and was in a hurry. So I chopped the pipe at the base, pinched it shut with a table vice and screwed it back in. So far, so good :tup: Eventually I'll get a plug.

I cannot say enough how happy it makes me to know that all of this shit is finally out of the engine bay. What an absolute clusterfuck.
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#219 Keaton85

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 06:03 PM

It's not even the expansion, is the movement of the metals when you get them really hot and then cool them down fast with water. Doing so a few times will break the rusty seal that the threads make with eachother.

I just do it when the exhaust is really hot or most times it comes off without messing with it at all. Also I use a dremmel and cut the hose BEFORE trying to take the plug out of the exhaust as the tube usually swings around being a major PITA.

#220 ande0549

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 03:01 PM

Thanks to all of those who figured out this mod. My car used to sound like a jet-engine when my old air pump turned on which was kind of cool but also somewhat embarrassing. I proceeded to fix it by buying a cheap used VW air pump and using this tutorial: http://www.___.com/a...rial-volvo.html

Since then, I've picked up a Eurosport Tuning down-pipe which has a 3rd bung welded in but is sized for a wideband O2 sensor and wouldn't work (w/o adapters) for the SAS pipe connection. So, I'm deleting my SAS system in favor for the wideband sensor and enhanced tuning capabilities! I wish I would have known this mod was possible sooner.

Making the decision to delete is easier since my state doesn't emissions test, even though members report that they pass theirs with this modification.

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