322 replies to this topic

[yangotang]

What did that sucker set you back?

maybe $10 my cost?

[HtownTurboBrick]

I threw away my SAS parts like 3 years ago, can someone post pics or a VADIS diagram of the relay and solenoid? I already soldered the diode and reread the thread and realized I need to have those parts connected for this to work.

[Volvo5.0]

The solenoid is #18 in the picture PN 1270389. The relay is PN 9442933 and is located in the relay box under the hood.

[scumcity14]

This works awesome...did it last week and fully passed emissions today..NO codes and almost Zero emissions at the tailpipe..car runs great...Takes like 5 minutes..most of that time is for the soldering iron to warm up...everyone should do this. I am going to physically remove all the non needed parts next week when i do my turbo back system...Thanks for the great info!!

[--Aaron--]

I would so love to delete my SAS system but I fail at soldering.

[Fudge_Brownie]

I would so love to delete my SAS system but I fail at soldering.

Youtube has some good videos. Maybe you can find some other stuff to practice on?

I've been meaning to do this for over a week now. Have the ECU sitting on my coffee table with the soldering iron and diode right next it. But night after night I just forget about it. This weekend, I swear!

[--Aaron--]

Youtube has some good videos. Maybe you can find some other stuff to practice on?

I've been meaning to do this for over a week now. Have the ECU sitting on my coffee table with the soldering iron and diode right next it. But night after night I just forget about it. This weekend, I swear!

Maybe I'll study soldering today for a bit, I mean, the diode's only a dollar. That's pretty cheap to get rid of a bunch of engine bay clutter.

[scumcity14]

Aaron, soldering this is easy. Even if you aren't a master w the soldering iron! Just heat the iron up (use a 25 watt and some decent silver solder). Touch the iron to the proper pin and tin it (apply a little solder) and tin the diode as well. Then hold the diode in place and touch the iron to the pin and the solder will flow. let of and it'll cool quick. do it on the other side and DONE! Theres no circuit board soldering so the potential for damage is low...Just be careful about static..ECUs don't like it. Make sure the diodes polarity is the right direction too or it wont work...

[--Aaron--]

Thanks for the tip, I'm def. considering it. It would free up so much clutter in the engine bay.

[crc1021]

Thanks for the tip, I'm def. considering it. It would free up so much clutter in the engine bay.

This was one of the easiest mods ever, once I was told what I was doing wrong. I have done it on two separate ecu's already. It takes all of 5 minutes.

If you are ever in the Philly area, I could give you a hand. Just bring the diode, I have the iron and solder.

[--Aaron--]

Cool man, thanks for the offer. I'll let you know which route I take. I'm probably going to end up taking my time as I just replaced my SAS pump and check valve roughly 30K miles ago.

[Keaton85]

Aaron, I have my T5M sitting for the winter so if you want me to do the diode mod I can send you my ECU and I can do the soldering for ya. I bought my lifetime supply at .01 each.

Also the solenoid has a resistance of 30-35Ohms so installing a 35Ohm resister would probably delete that as well. Also you should be able to delete the relay....

Edited by binglax09, 22 January 2011 - 06:16 AM.

[HtownTurboBrick]

been driving for 2 days so far, I know i've never removed the relay in the box under the hood, i'll have to check and see if #18 is still there, but the code hasn't come back yet.

Soldering the diode is the easiest part of the entire SAS delete. Taking the air pump and associated parts will be harder and consume way more time.

Edited by HtownTurboBrick, 22 January 2011 - 06:15 AM.

[--Aaron--]

Aaron, I have my T5M sitting for the winter so if you want me to do the diode mod I can send you my ECU and I can do the soldering for ya. I bought my lifetime supply at .01 each.

Also the solenoid has a resistance of 30-35Ohms so installing a 35Ohm resister would probably delete that as well. Also you should be able to delete the relay....

Hmm, thanks for the offer man. I think I would need to borrow your LPT ECU though, right? As long as we package the stuff out of the ECU's for transport I may be interested. I'd hate to screw up either one, mine's got an ST flash......I can leave the solenoid and relay there, no big deal but if it deletes them as well then so be it.

We may have to wait just a little while though, my inspection's coming up and I don't want to take a chance at starting havoc on my readiness monitors.

I did that one year and it took damn near 1K miles to get the car ready.

been driving for 2 days so far, I know i've never removed the relay in the box under the hood, i'll have to check and see if #18 is still there, but the code hasn't come back yet.

Soldering the diode is the easiest part of the entire SAS delete. Taking the air pump and associated parts will be harder and consume way more time.

Good to know, removing the pump is annoying because it's under the battery IMO.

Edited by --Aaron--, 22 January 2011 - 05:18 PM.

[gdizzle]

The RICA SAS delete requires the same solenoid to be left plugged in. Just an fyi. Props to the op.

[T5power]

just got my extra ECU today. looks like i'll be modifying my stock one to do this! thanks OP for the writeup. looks super simple.

and aaron, you'll probably be the one to help me get the air pump out in the coming weeks

[scumcity14]

Update: I now have 1000+ miles with this mod..NO CEL and passed emissions...everyone should do this!

[--Aaron--]

just got my extra ECU today. looks like i'll be modifying my stock one to do this! thanks OP for the writeup. looks super simple.

and aaron, you'll probably be the one to help me get the air pump out in the coming weeks

Haha, it's pretty simple man. I know because I have a new air pump and check valve installed, the Genuine parts bill was very salty.

Update: I now have 1000+ miles with this mod..NO CEL and passed emissions...everyone should do this!

Keep updating as you put more miles down, if this is a true way to get rid of the SAS I'm def. going this route. I just don't want to go through the hassle until I've seen a few K miles logged with no issues.

[HtownTurboBrick]

Had mine in for 2 weeks with no code...however the same can't be said for 2 evap codes that are now keeping me from getting inspected GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

[T5power]

Had mine in for 2 weeks with no code...however the same can't be said for 2 evap codes that are now keeping me from getting inspected GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

i share your enthusiasm.... i have a 455 code and my inspection is up. ugh