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Volvo5.0

Sas (Air Pump) Delete....write-Up With Pics

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What does this do for the P0410 code?

I have a 98 S70 GLT. I put a 2.3 and a 16T turbo in it. I have the OBX exhaust and I am throwing the P0410 code. I put the diode in the ecu and I reset the system with my code reader. After 40 miles I popped the same code again. I can hear my SAS pump kicking on occasionally, it is definitely bad with the whining noise that it is making. After the diode fix, I still hear it kicking on. Does it sound like I did something wrong with the install, or am I trying to fix the wrong problem? My inspection is due on Saturday and I will get another two weeks after if I fail, but I would love to pass the first time around. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Good stuff! Does anyone have a diagram of all of the parts that the SAS system uses in the car? I'm ready to do the mod, but I'm not sure what all I get to remove, and where they are.

Thanks!

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Unplug the pump and then unplug and block off the vacuum line from the tree. Simple way..

What does this do for the P0410 code?

I have a 98 S70 GLT. I put a 2.3 and a 16T turbo in it. I have the OBX exhaust and I am throwing the P0410 code. I put the diode in the ecu and I reset the system with my code reader. After 40 miles I popped the same code again. I can hear my SAS pump kicking on occasionally, it is definitely bad with the whining noise that it is making. After the diode fix, I still hear it kicking on. Does it sound like I did something wrong with the install, or am I trying to fix the wrong problem? My inspection is due on Saturday and I will get another two weeks after if I fail, but I would love to pass the first time around. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

You shouldn't have the pump plugged in an the vacuum line to the valve on the exhaust should be blocked off.

Edited by binglax09

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Good stuff! Does anyone have a diagram of all of the parts that the SAS system uses in the car? I'm ready to do the mod, but I'm not sure what all I get to remove, and where they are.

Thanks!

My air pump system was fully functional. I removed it when I installed my OBX exhaust. I didn't want to modify the DP (by adding a bung) to make provisions for the air pump. Also I hope to soon install a FMIC and removing the pump will free up space for that.

I removed everything except #18 the solenoid valve. Make sure you leave the electrical connection attached.....

Airpump.jpg

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Can a resistor be added to the solenoid connection in place of it in order to make the computer think it's there?

Maybe, but honestly the solenoid valve is kind of hidden out of the way. For me anyway I don't think it will interfere with anything I planned for my car.

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Maybe, but honestly the solenoid valve is kind of hidden out of the way. For me anyway I don't think it will interfere with anything I planned for my car.

I agree but if you remove the rest of the system then the solenoid could be suspect for an inspection station if they get to in depth. Very rare I know but it's something to consider. With a resistor to match the resistance of the solenoid itself could be hidden and the whole system would be gone.

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Everything goes except for the relay? This is great to hear.

Did you just cap the openings on the solenoid?

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Ok I will go over this again...

Keep: Vacuum solenoid above the fan and the relay up next to the strut tower

Remove: Pump under battery, valve on the exhaust, vacuum lines to and from solenoid, and the hoses.

BUT, if you don't want to bother plugging the hole in the intake box and the exhaust then you can leave the parts and just unplug the pump, and unplug the vacuum line from the tree and cap it. You DO NOT WANT to leave the pump or the vacuum plugged in or it might work half way and show the computer an even higher voltage drop! Also keep in mind if the valve on the exhaust is leaking and the pump was good when you did the mod, it will likely go bad. SO if the pump is useable ebay it!

Also just a note, if anyone wants to have someone else do the mod, I can mod the ECU for you. Just shoot me a PM if interested....

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Thank you so much for posting this, OP.

This is definitely my next modification. Going inside the ECU. Simple.

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I followed the instructions and put the Diode in the ECU. I disconnected the pump, as well as the purple vacuum line at the back of the valve, above the turbo. I put a cap on the vacuum line as well as the valve. I am up to forty miles again, but have not thrown the code for the SAS system, yet. I am keeping my fingers crossed. I will post an update when I get to 150, unless I throw the code again. Once I get to that 150 mark, I am taking the SAS system out one component at a time just in case I throw the code, I will know what it is. I am going for the pipe to the exhaust this weekend first. Thank you for the help. This is an amazing post and I want to give kudos to the people who took the time to figure this out.

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It takes a while to set a readiness state. I just did 5 of these on my vehicles. I have about 300miles on one that still has no readiness set. Also on my T5M I have never seen any system go into readiness which is odd. Then on the only N/A it set full readiness in like 100miles!

All about the same driving, so these systems are a little finicky in my opinion.

Just a note to everyone, make sure you go 3 in for 32 and 8 in for 37 as the first pin is 30.

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Motronic 4.4 can be tough at times to establish readiness. Volvo has a very specific procedure for establishing readiness http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/VolvoTechMike/2009-01-29_020910_readinessmonitors.pdf

Using that bulletin and having the Volvo System Tester (VST), readiness can be set rather quickly. Sometimes take 2 road tests.

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Can someone tell me if swapping the ECU off a NON SAS 850 to a SAS 850 would work? I did this with my EGR to delete it and I just Snagged rob's NON sas ECU. I figured IN theory it should work, the part numbers were different.

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I hit 50 miles today and popped the code again. I disconnected that purple vacuum line and capped it. I disconntected the pump at the clip next to the battery tray. If all of this is correct I am going to pull out the ECU and verify the position of the diode. My pump was turning on prior to doing this which tells me that the relay above the fan was working. Is there a chance that the solenoid is bad. How can I check this?

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