Sas (Air Pump) Delete....write-Up With Pics

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Yeah, everybody laughs about having to have the fan relay and solenoid functioning for the diode trick to work...but when you're desperate to get a car functional and inspection sticker ready, it's tough to get to the fine print.

So I'm going to put this here:


Turns out my Hecho en Eire relay had a smoke escape issue (the Irish relay was no good). Once I put a new aftermarket relay in (Hecho en Deutschland from and cleared the codes, I now have nearly 100 miles of stop and go driving w/o the P0410 code.

Unplug power from relay to SAS fan.

Plug vacuum lines from solenoid to air pump check valve.

Be very careful of your 17-year-old vacuum tree, that plastic is brittle.

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You can also get them on ebay, I spent 99 cents for 100 count. instead of 99 cents for 2 Whos the assholes that are negativing me? WTF! I'm saying that 99 cents for TWO is a freakin rip off....


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Where to hang the fan relay after removing the SAS pump? Easy solution for me was the metal lip behind the headlight. I crimped the 2 metal clips a little tighter to make sure it won't fall off, and, gave the unit a 360 degree turn to ensure the wires to the relay wouldn't touch anything hot.

Thanks again for a much cleaner engine bay! The SAS pump was full of water and is going into the garbage bin. The air cleaner box was plugged with the S80 rubber plug.

My rescue 854 is now a road worthy machine, thank you.

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  • 3 months later...

WOW, today I got a CEL, 442 and 448 (volvo codes, not obd2).

I've had this mod since it was jointly developed by volvo5 and me. Thought it was all good. It might have to do with the weather since it was finally above freezing today. I never had any issues when I was back in FL. We'll see what happens....

Edited by flaco
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I have 1998 s70 GLT with Code P0410 ONLY, so I disconnected my battery and then took out the ECU off the car ( the one close to the engine). I did soldered my diode #1N4003 ( got it from SAYAL Electronics - Toronto ) in the right direction from Pin A32 to A37 ----[---------[]-]--.

I went underneath the car were the battery is and followed the blue and black cables coming out of the Pump to know which on to disconnect. Found it and disconnected it ( big wight plug) behind the left headlight. I had a hard time taking the rusty pump out of my way so i left it the way it is.

I changed the airpump relay in the relays box beside the air box just in case.

Now, I drove stop and go (city) and highways ,a full tank gone for it ... there is no check engine..

The PROBLEM IS every time I connect my OBD2, I have 5 INCOMPLETE I/M readiness..(( Catalyst, O2 Sensor, heated O2 Sensor, secendary pump, Evap)) and 3 with OK Status

I took it to the mechanic he said " Its not ready yet thou you still have 5 incomplete tests in drive-cycle" and suggest me to keep driving it...

I need to do my emission Test AS SOON AS POSSIBLE and I have no idea what to do.


Edited by KOVARO
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It sounds like you resolved the P0410 code, right? How many miles have you driven since you completed the job?

Sounds like your problem is now with 'Readiness'. I don't have experience testing this, but here's a whole thread about it :

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Start with the vehicle cool, below 122 degrees F.

Turn off the air conditioning.

Select a location where the driving can be done without violating traffic laws and you can stop safely at the side of the road.

1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.

2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.

3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.

4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.

5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.

6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.

7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.

8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine.

This procedure must be performed TWICE (consecutively) from a cold start to set the readiness codes.

Here's possibly a more credible source, describing a similar concept, but with a different procedure.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've repaired my sas system several times over the past few years, only to have it fail again. Bought another check valve, but to be honest, I am sick of going through this.

I'm very interested in doing the system delete. Either in-line or by soldering the tabs in the ecu. Has anyone had issues down the road with this mod?

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Read the thread.

There has been NO issues when done properly. I have over 75k with zero issues on multiple ecus

Some people talk about evap codes but those are NOT related to the sas system at all.

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Read the thread.

There has been NO issues when done properly. I have over 75k with zero issues on multiple ecus

Some people talk about evap codes but those are NOT related to the sas system at all.

Thanks. Gonna go ahead then and add the diode.

I'd like to clean things up and remove the solenoid too. My buddy that works on VW's (which use basically the same air pump), said he adds a resister inline. I read every post and I know this wasn't clear to me....Was anyone ever able to accomplish removing the solenoid on Volvos by adding a resister inline?

Edited by mags98c70
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I did the SAS delete at the same time I installed my OBX exhaust. I have P0410 pending but I haven't been been able to locate a 1N4003 diode. The Canadian version of Radio Shack (The Source) carries a multi-pack of diodes that include 1N4001 1N4002 1N4004 and 1N4007.

I know the question was asked earlier about using a 1N4007 but I didn't see an answer.

So given these choices which one should I use?

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They all have the same 1.1V voltage drop. Thus going with a 1N4004 should work since it's rating it just to handle higher voltage, with the same spec for 1.1V which is all your looking for.

Edited by Keaton85
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