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Volvo5.0

Sas (Air Pump) Delete....write-Up With Pics

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okay im sorry for this but im a bit confused. is there a correlation between the SAS delete and an evap code?

In theory, doing the SAS delete should not have any affect on the evap system. The cars I have done the SAS delete on personally have not set any evap codes. YMMV :lol:

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aha alright thanks for clearing that up. all i need is another reason to fail emissions. :lol:

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In response to "what cars does this work on, someone said:

'96-'98 850's and S/V70's with Motronic 4.4

How do I find out if my car is 4.3 or 4.4? Note that it is an N/A.

Or more to the point: can I do this SAS delete on my car?

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OK you can tell the Motronic version by checking the VIN:

link at MVS

On my car the digit in the emissions VIN is a 4. So it has Motronic 4.4

In fact according to that MVS page, any 96 with an air pump has Motronic 4.4

So this delete should work.

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Some of the earlier 850's didn't actually use the SAS system components that later cars got.

Non turbos for certain, so for wiring those up you go direct to the pump relay control vs. the valve relay control.

when I first put this together for my wifes car, her's is the earlier non turbo style so you go straight to the pump for your 'turn on' signal.

Later models with the sas valve use that signal for 'turn on'.

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Well my car certainly has SAS valve, solenoid and air pump. Don't know which relays, but I could look if that would matter? Thew car is also M4.4 according to the VIN plate.

But you are saying that my ECU should be set up to check B-38 instead of A-37, regardless of all that?

In that case the threads say I would need to bridge with the pot using a time delay relay (TDR). hmmmm that would be a bummer. Is it worth trying the easy method (A-32 to A-37) or would I be wasting my time?

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A '96 N/A could be either 4.3 or 4.4 but since you have all the airpump parts on your car then it's obviously 4.4. You can do A32 to A37, just make sure the diode is pointing the right way. Do yourself a favor and just unplug the airpump until you're satisfied with the mod. Don't rip everything out until you're sure the code is gone for good.

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and when you do remove the system make sure to remove the check valve on the downpipe..its really annoying if you don't..I had to drive to NAPA with it still on to get a plug and the thing clucks like a chicken if you drive with nothing but the check valve..BTW over 5k with no CEL ..all is good ( yes I got rid of the 455 with a new gas cap..totally unrelated)...best 50 cent mod ever...(only 50 cent mod ever)

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My VIN plate says my car is 4.4 so I installed the diode A32 to A37, tapping into the wires. So far (OK only a week) no CEL.

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Photo-0200.jpg

:o

Now to plug that pesky open dp bung. :lol:

I will figure out it's size and such tomorrow and take care of that.

Edited by --Aaron--

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Ah, feels much better reducing clutter.....two pictures.....

Photo-0201.jpg

Photo-0202.jpg

I assume the brass fitting will be alright I used?

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:o

Now to plug that pesky open dp bung. :lol:

I will figure out it's size and such tomorrow and take care of that.

sorry if it's already listed but what size is that?

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sorry if it's already listed but what size is that?

I don't think it has been stated yet. I would love to know as well!

Aaron: Looks like the cotter pin on the wastegate arm has rusted away.

Edited by binglax09

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I don't think it has been stated yet. I would love to know as well!

Aaron: Looks like the cotter pin on the wastegate arm has rusted away.

Pretty sure it is M16.

Confirmed

Edited by cheapwagon

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