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Sas (Air Pump) Delete....write-Up With Pics


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#21 Volvo5.0

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 02:40 PM

View Postbinglax09, on 01 December 2010 - 01:58 PM, said:

Can a resistor be added to the solenoid connection in place of it in order to make the computer think it's there?

Maybe, but honestly the solenoid valve is kind of hidden out of the way. For me anyway I don't think it will interfere with anything I planned for my car.
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1998 S70T5M, 2000 Built B5244T2 RN Engine, K24 turbo, 550cc injectors, Turbo-Tuner, Devilsown progressive WMI, 311whp 363wtrq



#22 Keaton85

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 03:23 PM

View PostVolvo5.0, on 01 December 2010 - 02:40 PM, said:

Maybe, but honestly the solenoid valve is kind of hidden out of the way. For me anyway I don't think it will interfere with anything I planned for my car.
I agree but if you remove the rest of the system then the solenoid could be suspect for an inspection station if they get to in depth. Very rare I know but it's something to consider. With a resistor to match the resistance of the solenoid itself could be hidden and the whole system would be gone.

#23 MikeG

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 03:53 AM

Everything goes except for the relay? This is great to hear.

Did you just cap the openings on the solenoid?
Mike - 98 V70R (on jack stands) - FWD - 5spd - 165k mi
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#24 Keaton85

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 02:41 PM

Ok I will go over this again...

Keep: Vacuum solenoid above the fan and the relay up next to the strut tower
Remove: Pump under battery, valve on the exhaust, vacuum lines to and from solenoid, and the hoses.

BUT, if you don't want to bother plugging the hole in the intake box and the exhaust then you can leave the parts and just unplug the pump, and unplug the vacuum line from the tree and cap it. You DO NOT WANT to leave the pump or the vacuum plugged in or it might work half way and show the computer an even higher voltage drop! Also keep in mind if the valve on the exhaust is leaking and the pump was good when you did the mod, it will likely go bad. SO if the pump is useable ebay it!

Also just a note, if anyone wants to have someone else do the mod, I can mod the ECU for you. Just shoot me a PM if interested....

#25 Korruption

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Posted 03 December 2010 - 04:43 AM

Thank you so much for posting this, OP.

This is definitely my next modification. Going inside the ECU. Simple.

1998 V70 R AWD - M66 - 2.5T - FMIC

1991 244 NA - M47

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#26 crc1021

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Posted 06 December 2010 - 03:04 PM

I followed the instructions and put the Diode in the ECU. I disconnected the pump, as well as the purple vacuum line at the back of the valve, above the turbo. I put a cap on the vacuum line as well as the valve. I am up to forty miles again, but have not thrown the code for the SAS system, yet. I am keeping my fingers crossed. I will post an update when I get to 150, unless I throw the code again. Once I get to that 150 mark, I am taking the SAS system out one component at a time just in case I throw the code, I will know what it is. I am going for the pipe to the exhaust this weekend first. Thank you for the help. This is an amazing post and I want to give kudos to the people who took the time to figure this out.
98' GLT 240K//2.3 MOTOR SWAP//16T//NA THROTTLE BODY, INTAKE, AND 960 PLATE//T5 ECU//WHITES//OBX EXHAUST//SNABB(SPACER, INTAKE PIPE, NA TB HOSE)//IPD(HD TCV, WIRES, UPPER/LOWER POLY MOUNT, INTAKE)

#27 Keaton85

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Posted 06 December 2010 - 04:10 PM

It takes a while to set a readiness state. I just did 5 of these on my vehicles. I have about 300miles on one that still has no readiness set. Also on my T5M I have never seen any system go into readiness which is odd. Then on the only N/A it set full readiness in like 100miles!

All about the same driving, so these systems are a little finicky in my opinion.

Just a note to everyone, make sure you go 3 in for 32 and 8 in for 37 as the first pin is 30.

#28 Volvo5.0

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Posted 06 December 2010 - 05:09 PM

Motronic 4.4 can be tough at times to establish readiness. Volvo has a very specific procedure for establishing readiness http://ww2.justanswe...essmonitors.pdf

Using that bulletin and having the Volvo System Tester (VST), readiness can be set rather quickly. Sometimes take 2 road tests.
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#29 z31jaime

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 04:36 AM

Can someone tell me if swapping the ECU off a NON SAS 850 to a SAS 850 would work? I did this with my EGR to delete it and I just Snagged rob's NON sas ECU. I figured IN theory it should work, the part numbers were different.

#30 crc1021

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 02:29 PM

I hit 50 miles today and popped the code again. I disconnected that purple vacuum line and capped it. I disconntected the pump at the clip next to the battery tray. If all of this is correct I am going to pull out the ECU and verify the position of the diode. My pump was turning on prior to doing this which tells me that the relay above the fan was working. Is there a chance that the solenoid is bad. How can I check this?
98' GLT 240K//2.3 MOTOR SWAP//16T//NA THROTTLE BODY, INTAKE, AND 960 PLATE//T5 ECU//WHITES//OBX EXHAUST//SNABB(SPACER, INTAKE PIPE, NA TB HOSE)//IPD(HD TCV, WIRES, UPPER/LOWER POLY MOUNT, INTAKE)

#31 crc1021

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 03:53 PM

View Postcrc1021, on 07 December 2010 - 02:29 PM, said:

I hit 50 miles today and popped the code again. I disconnected that purple vacuum line and capped it. I disconntected the pump at the clip next to the battery tray. If all of this is correct I am going to pull out the ECU and verify the position of the diode. My pump was turning on prior to doing this which tells me that the relay above the fan was working. Is there a chance that the solenoid is bad. How can I check this?


The code that I am throwing is P0410
98' GLT 240K//2.3 MOTOR SWAP//16T//NA THROTTLE BODY, INTAKE, AND 960 PLATE//T5 ECU//WHITES//OBX EXHAUST//SNABB(SPACER, INTAKE PIPE, NA TB HOSE)//IPD(HD TCV, WIRES, UPPER/LOWER POLY MOUNT, INTAKE)

#32 Keaton85

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 04:27 PM

I would check the diode, also make sure that the relay works and the solenoid works.

#33 crc1021

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Posted 08 December 2010 - 12:13 AM

Ok, here is where I am at. I tested the air pump relay by switching it with the main relay, car still started.

I have the ECU in front of me right now and I did the diode off of another post that had it running from A32 to B38. I have the direction correct, but should I switch it to the way it is done in this post.

The only thing that I do not know how to test is the solenoid. I read a post under the repair section and the instructions are not to clear for me.

From what I can see, once these areas are covered I should be in the clear.
98' GLT 240K//2.3 MOTOR SWAP//16T//NA THROTTLE BODY, INTAKE, AND 960 PLATE//T5 ECU//WHITES//OBX EXHAUST//SNABB(SPACER, INTAKE PIPE, NA TB HOSE)//IPD(HD TCV, WIRES, UPPER/LOWER POLY MOUNT, INTAKE)

#34 Keaton85

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Posted 08 December 2010 - 12:43 AM

The A32 to B38 doesnt work, that is activated when the pump signal is set. You want it on the A32 to A37 where is activates when the vacuum solenoid is set.

That's your issue, the diode is installed on the wrong pins. So reread this topic... idono how you got it on the B38...

Edited by binglax09, 08 December 2010 - 12:43 AM.


#35 crc1021

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Posted 10 December 2010 - 03:17 PM

I am up to a 100 miles and all is good. I have an sas ok on my reader and no check engine. This was an awsome post. Thank you for all of the help.
98' GLT 240K//2.3 MOTOR SWAP//16T//NA THROTTLE BODY, INTAKE, AND 960 PLATE//T5 ECU//WHITES//OBX EXHAUST//SNABB(SPACER, INTAKE PIPE, NA TB HOSE)//IPD(HD TCV, WIRES, UPPER/LOWER POLY MOUNT, INTAKE)

#36 URO_S60

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 05:29 PM

What model/year cars can this mod be done on?
Reguards,Scott. ~2005 S60 2.5T AWD: lil of this, lil of that, it goes pretty good now.
1/8 mi - e.t. 9.176 @ 79.24 mph, r.t. .569, 60' 2.129

#37 Volvo5.0

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Posted 18 December 2010 - 05:37 PM

'96-'98 850's and S/V70's with Motronic 4.4
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#38 O_0

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 03:51 AM

YAYYYYY!!!!!

Thank you !
You can be a genius, but if no one likes you, you minds well be dead... Like you will be to the world.

#39 yangotang

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 04:47 AM

in california, during smog checks, the smog person checks the sticker under the hood and makes sure that evertyhing is there....

this sticker helped me pass smog:

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part # 9430401

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#40 O_0

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 05:21 AM

What did that sucker set you back?
You can be a genius, but if no one likes you, you minds well be dead... Like you will be to the world.




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