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Diy: 1998 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch & Cylinder Lock Replacement


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#1 cn90

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 04:27 AM

DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch & Cylinder Lock Replacement

Car is 1998 Volvo V70 with 106K miles.
- Symptoms: sometimes cannot crank the engine, after wiggling the key a few times, then I can start the engine. It was intermittent, then it became permanent.
- Key can turn to Position I and Position II but not Position III (crank).
- Initially I thought it was the Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion to the LEFT of Steering Column), which was replaced but same symptoms! It turned out to be the Ignition Tumbler Lock (where you insert the key).

The links below are very good DIYs but both of these DIYs mentioned Steering Wheel Removal (not needed IMHO). These are 1999-2000 S70, S80 Ignition Tumbler DIYs:

http://www.matthewsv...pic.php?t=13514

http://volvospeed.co...nition_S80.html

--->If you replace the Ignition Tumbler Lock (where you insert the key), there is NO need to remove the Steering Wheel at all! Read on.

------
Parts/Tools:

1. Igntition Switch (Electrical Portion is PN 9447804, $50 at Volvo dealer. Do not use aftermarket part).

2. Ignition Tumbler Assembly (where you insert the key, Volvo PN is 8626325). I bought it for $210 from (ordered Monday and got it by Fedex on Saturday, wow fast service!):

Don Snyder
Darrell Waltrip Volvo Subaru
615-599-6294 direct
Tel. 1-800-679-6124
Fax 615-599-6253
Don.Snyder@HendrickAuto.com


3. Tools:
- Torx set
- “Trim” Hammer (this hammer is used for carpentry trim job) is useful in this tight space
- 1/32” Nail Set
- Flat Screwdriver.

FYI, 1998 and earlier models probably have no anti-theft chip in the key. I connected the Ignition Switch (Electrical Part on the LEFT of Steering Column) to the connector and use a flat screwdriver (in the location labeled “Slot”) to crank and the car starts right up.

See Pic #1.

4. Shear Bolts are supplied with new Ignition Tumbler Lock Assembly. For those not familiar with Shear Bolts: these are used during assembly at factory, once the head on the Shear Bolt is tightened to a certain torque, the outer head snaps off, leaving a round inner head, making it difficult for thieves to remove. When you buy the Ignition Tumbler Lock Assembly, the Shear Bolts are supplied with it.

- During re-installation, I simply tightened the Shear Bolts snug without snapping the head off just in case I want to remove them later.

See Pic #2.

5. Have a look to be familiar with the setup:
- The LEFT side of the Ignition Assembly is the Electrical Portion of the Ignition: it turns I, II and III (crank).
- The RIGHT side of the Ignition Assembly (where you insert the key) can only be turned with the proper key and has a cable to control so you cannot remove the key if the car is not in Park. The RIGHT side turns the LEFT side via a flat piece of steel, pretty much similar to your lock at home.

Procedures:

1. Disconnect Battery Ground Cable for safety reasons.

2. Use a flat screwdriver to lift off the rubber trim, then lift the Upper Cover close to SW upward (#1), then slide it toward you so it slides out of the hook (#2).
The Lower Cover is secured by three (3) Torx #25 bolts. When removing the Lower Cover, pay attention to the part around the Lighted Ring: tug the Lower Cover outward a bit so it clears the Lighted Ring then remove it.

See Pic #3.

3. Remove Turn Signal Stalk and Wiper Stalk: Each Stalk is held by two (2) Torx #25 bolts.

4. Now you can see the Shear Bolt round head. At factory, the force used to tighten the Shear Bolt was not much, so with the Nail Set you can “chisel” it out. Angle the Nail Set in such a way that it angles about 45 degrees and tap it with the “trim” Hammer Counter-Clockwise to remove the Shear Bolt.
This is why you do NOT need to remove the Steering Wheel when replacing the Ignition Tumbler Lock Assembly.

See Pic #4.

5. Use a flat screwdriver to gently disconnect the Connector to the Ignition Switch (left side of Steering Column). Once the Shear Bolts are removed, the Cylinder Lock Assembly will fall down, so support it with your knees.
Disconnect the three Torx Bolts holding the Horn/Air Bag Ring.

See Pic #5.

6. Now disconnect the Lighted Ring connector then remove the Lighted Ring from the Assembly.

7. To remove the Parking Release Cable: squeeze both sides of the tabs and use a flat screwdriver to gently pry it out. But first use a Sharpie to mark the depth of insertion of this Parking Release Cable so you know how much to insert it to the new Assembly. I think the key needs to be in position II to insert this Parking Release Cable.

See Pic #6.

8. If you decide to keep your Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion), then remove it using Torx #20 key, then transfer it to the new Ignition Tumbler Assembly. Note there are a large and a small notch so it can only be aligned 1 way.
However, at 100K, I think it is better to replace both the Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion) and the Ignition Tumbler Assembly.

9. Re-assembly is straightforward, make sure the notch on the Ignition Tumbler Assembly lines up with the Steering Column hole before you tighten the Shear Bolts. Again, I did not snap the heads of the Shear Bolts, just finger-tight and snug.
Also make sure the Rubbers around the Turn Signal and Wiper Talks fit properly on the Upper and Lower Covers.

See Pic #7.t]


This is all boy and girls, the good news is you don’t have to remove the Steering Wheel if you replace the Ignition Tumbler Assembly!!!

Attached Files


1998 S70 GLT 145K



#2 T-5Bandit

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 06:54 PM

Good write-up.

Personally, when I did mine I removed the steering wheel and I still see no reason not too. Having the steering wheel off gives plenty of access to everything and you can safely remove the airbag clockspring without damaging it - it only takes 10 minutes to remove the airbag and steering wheel. You pictures clearly show the tabs on your airbag clockspring are broken off, not sure if you did this during that process or if they were already broken.

I also found easier and quicker to take a dremel and cut a section of the aluminum casing around each of the shear bolts. It's soft aluminum so any metal bit will cut through it quickly, the bolts just fall out at that point. I think either method works fine and is whole lot easier than trying to drill out the sheer bolt.

Edited by T-5Bandit, 28 November 2010 - 08:34 PM.

John
1998 V70 T5
Chrome 19" Niche Rhine Wheels



#3 cn90

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Posted 29 November 2010 - 02:53 AM

Actually using the Nail Set, it is 2-3 minutes per bolt (to remove).
If you replace only the key cylinder assembly, there is no need to remove the SW at all. Access is easy anyway.

And yes, you are correct...my clockspring (for horn and airbag) is broken at the 3 plastic "legs").
I am searching for a new one but it is kind of expensive $130 or so.
1998 S70 GLT 145K

#4 Jippi 855 GLT

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Posted 29 November 2010 - 03:13 AM

i thought DW wasnt doing mail orders anymore..?? :( :(

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1993 Mercedes-Benz 190e 2.3 91k still broken
1996 Volvo 855 GLT-R 320+k and going ( Project GLT-R)
1998 Subaru Outback SUS -Daily Driver
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