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sconeman

850 T5M Project: 02 Hpt, M56, Tt, 19T...

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Didn't see all your process pics last night - nice documentation!

The only thing about using the stock (VVT) timing on the exhaust side, is that the cam itself has at least 6º more retard built into it compared to the earlier cams, so ideally, you want to advance it a "smidgeon" as a base setting, since you have no VVT to bring it back. I know this 'cos a TBricker emailed me a pic of the early/late cams overlaid, you can see the difference in lobe angle relative to the base slot position. Otherwise, I believe you're really running more overlap than is ideal.

VVTcamOverlay.jpg

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thanks Hussein.

Well I didn't get the timing belt done because I didn't have the front cam seals. I did finally install the pedals and find a bolt for the clutch master. I don't want to complain but the pedals on an 850 are a real bitch to get out and in. I'm glad it's over.

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I'm missing the spring for the clutch pedal anyone have one?

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also

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just ordered this.

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I'm ditching the profec b for cheap if anyone wants it. It's not a 2 $100 plus shipping send pm if interested

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just ordered this.

I'm ditching the profec b for cheap if anyone wants it. It's not a 2 $100 plus shipping send pm if interested

What input parameters does in utilize? Nothing on the website... is it similar to the Apexi with MAP, rpm, speed & TPS inputs?

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What input parameters does in utilize? Nothing on the website... is it similar to the Apexi with MAP, rpm, speed & TPS inputs?

apparently you can use any low voltage input for the RPM, I'm not sure where I'm going to take that signal from yet probably the wires that go to the tach unless there's something easier in the engine bay.. haven't thought about it much yet.

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apparently you can use any low voltage input for the RPM, I'm not sure where I'm going to take that signal from yet probably the wires that go to the tach unless there's something easier in the engine bay.. haven't thought about it much yet.

You can pick up the tach signal the same place I did - I indicated the block/pin location here (unless 850 layout was revised with the '98's) ...

scan001.jpg

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You can pick up the tach signal the same place I did - I indicated the block/pin location here (unless 850 layout was revised with the '98's) ...

wow thank you Hussein, very helpful. hopefully it's the same/similar

Edited by sconeman

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Just out of curiosity, why'd you go with the Gizzmo?

reviews, looks like a good product, had features that I wanted (RPM dependent boost control for the 19t, closed loop monitoring and a solenoid monitor) plus it has good directions I could understand with drawings that matched the actual parts unlike Profecs abysmal directions that look like they were created in the 70's before we had editing software...or even microsoft word.

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LOL I agree with the drawings. The Greddy diagrams are trash. I was down between the Gizzmo and the Eboost 2 and went with the Eboost instead. Curious to see how you end up liking the Gizzmo though.

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well I got something in the mail today biggrin.gif

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and the 99-00 mount from Volvo5.0 that I forgot to take pic of. Thank you!

I also took a second to scrub the upper motor mount that Jeff sent and cut off the rest of the rubber to mount a 93-97 poly mount. Thanks again Jeff for an awesome idea. Now we don't have to buy the crappy square after market mounts. Fit's nice and tight to the ring, there is about 1/4" of space in between the poly halves.

Apologies for resurrecting this thread, but where did you source this hub?

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no worries. I got it from a member by hte name of Aaron. I actually don't remember his user name but someone else will chime in I'm sure. Honestly it is an unnecessary added expense and trouble to do this. You can just use the stock hub and the job will be so much easier. The static position of the stock hubs is fine as is they can't change without oil pressure from the solenoid so you have no chance of the cam settings changing on you unintentionally. My advice just use the stock one.

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aaron really isn't doing stuff for us anymore.  I think YO's iirc.

 

shame.

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hmm so no posts on this car for a long time but I've not driven it too much the last couple years. In 2013 I had a 12 month trouble shooting nightmare which ultimately wound up being a bad main relay.  I won't go into all the details but basically I shorted out the main relay , replaced it. Then I guess it broke due to a faulty solder and I had a bunch of low voltage issues never suspecting the main relay because I had jjust replaced it. Well after an annoyingly long time, testing batteries, wiring, coils and everything else. I finally realized that I had another bad main relay.

 

2014 car pretty much got driven once a week and stored over winter. So all in all I've probably put 10,000 miles on the RN setup since I did the swap. This brings us to now. Can needed new front brakes and tires so I decided to get back to work on some updates.

First up. S60R brakes all around: new rotors, pads, rebuild on the calipers, brakes lines, new fluid and looks like it needs parking brake hardware too....

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in the process found that she needed control arms, endlinks (IPD endlinks had failed so that was about 10k miles) Oh and needed a new PS axle so I decided to switch to royal purple gear oil.  Been using RP in the motor sunce day one and the car seems to be very happy with it.

just got finished building a new 3" intake with 3.25" housing and large airfilter, then we'll relocate the water injection control and reservoir, swapping to the drop in intercooler so that I can build a RIP piping kit for the 850's and I'm going to do some testing and work on developing a low cost bar and plate intercooler so I can move away from the GPI drop in  intercoolers.

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Once we get this all finished up Aaron at Beust tuning is going to get me set me with a tune. Looking forward to doing a dyno once it's all set and see what he can do.

Trying to decide on wheels too. I have a set of pegs that we're refinishing or I might use these.

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Edited by sconeman
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