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Write Up: 850 Seat Back Cable Replacement


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#1 Oreo931

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 04:18 AM

I replaced the seat back cables in both front seats of my 850 and I thought I'd do a write up. I'm so glad I did it. I've owned the car for 4 years now with the seats stuck in one position :lol:

Here are the "volvo" directions:

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They aren't that instructive, which is why I decide to do this write up.

Note: I recommend removing the seat from the car. It's really easy to do and I think it makes this procedure much easier.

First, note the difference between the old and new cables. The old cable is straight plastic, whereas the new cable has a braided design, which probably helps it last longer.

The part number for the new cable is: 3539655


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Step 1.
Cut the 4 hog rings located at the bottom of the upper portion of the seat. You can use a pair of wire cutters/snips to cut the hog rings. Make sure you remove both sides of the hog ring that you cut. Needle nose pliers are useful for pulling out hog ring pieces.

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Step 2.
Unscrew the lumbar knob adjuster. First unscrew it all the way, then pull it out and unscrew more. Then push it in and unscrew more. It can be tricky to remove on your first try, so if you can't get it just fiddle with it until it comes out.

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Remove the plastic trim piece:

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Step 3.

(do this step for both sides of the seat)

Fold up the leather/plastic on each side of the seat.

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Unhook the leather from the plastic piece:

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In the next picture, you can see the hooks that hold the leather on:

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Step 4.
Move to the front of the seat. Begin folding up the leather. There are 4 hog rings to cut here. (2 columns of 2 rings, one on the left side and one on the right). The white piece on the seat back is the seat heating element.

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These rings are annoying to cut. You can definitely do it with one person. However, if you have a friend nearby, it would probably be helpful if they held the leather up while you cut the rings.

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All 4 hog ring attachment points:

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In the pic below, you can see there are holes in the fabric that the hog rings go through. Use these holes when you are re-attaching the leather to the seat.

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Step 5.
After you cut the hog rings in the front of the seat move to the back of the seat. There are two hooks on elastic (one on each side of the seat) that are holding the rear middle-leather area to the seat. Unhook them:

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Step 6.

Locate the rear seat transmission. On the driver's seat it will be on the bottom right (as seen in the pics below), on the passenger seat it will be on the bottom left. Right above the transmission there is a spring, remove it. Vice grips are helpful here.

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Step 7.

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the transmission to the seat frame. The bolt is on the outside of the seat (expose it by pulling back the plastic trim). The bolt goes through the seat frame, through a spacer, and then into the transmission.

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Step 8.

There are two c-clips holding the motor on the square seat adjustment shaft. One in front of the motor, and one behind it.

First, remove the c-clip in front of the motor.

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Remove the c-clips from the inside of the transmission

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Next, pull the shaft out of the hole closest to the transmission. If you can't pull it out by hand, you can gently tap it out with a screwdriver and mallet.

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This will expose the second c-clip, and allow you to remove the transmission from the shaft.

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Step 9.

Remove the transmission from the shaft. Unscrew the 4 phillips head screws to expose the internals, and remove the cable.

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To remove the cable, I pulled out the internals enough so that I could get the old cable out and put the new cable in. If you find it easier, you can completely remove the internals. The transmission itself is a very simple mechanism.

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Install the new cable, and reassemble the transmission.

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Step 10.

Cut the zip tie in the upper middle area of the seat holding the old cable to the seat.

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Step 11.

Locate the motor. On the driver's seat it will be on the left side in the middle area, on the passenger seat it will be on the right side in the middle area.

The seat back cable is attached to the motor by a retaining bracket held on by two 8mm bolts. The bolt closest to the seat frame is difficult to get to with a socket wrench. I used an open ended wrench to loosen the bolt a couple of turns, then used a ratcheting wrench to unscrew it.

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Install the new cable and re-assemble the motor.

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Reassembly is the opposite of removal. If you don't have hog rings or hog ring pliers, zip ties work fine.

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The only slightly tricky thing on reassembly is at the bottom corners of the seat back. In step 3 above, when you remove the leather from the plastic pieces, you will also pull out extra leather material. When you are putting the leather back on, you will need to fold the extra leather up under the seat back in a way that is difficult to put in words. I recommend doing one seat at a time so you can use the other seat as an example for how to fold up the leather. The best way I can describe it is (sorry for being crude), fold your finger(s) up, sort of in a hook shape, as if you are trying to hit a girl's g-spot. That is exactly how you should fold the leather up.

Picture for those of you who don't know how to find the g-spot :lol:

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Finished!

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'95 854 Yellow T5-R Manual - Built 2004 2.3L RN - garage queen (CarDomain)
'97 854 Black N/A Manual - daily beater




#2 --Aaron--

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 04:33 AM

Nice write up! The seats were stuck for 4 years in one position? :lol:

#3 Oreo931

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 04:35 AM

Nice write up! The seats were stuck for 4 years in one position? :lol:

Yep :lol:

Fortunately the position was comfortable. I kept making excuses like I was too scared to take the leather off, or too cheap to buy new cables. But I finally did it and I'm glad I did lol.

Hopefully this write up will help others not wait as long as I did. If there was a write up like this one I definitely would have done it sooner.

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'95 854 Yellow T5-R Manual - Built 2004 2.3L RN - garage queen (CarDomain)
'97 854 Black N/A Manual - daily beater


#4 beewerks

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 05:54 AM

Very nice man! I did this a few years ago and wish I had these instructions back then. Is this thread going to get stickied in the repairs section?
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#5 crazykn

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 07:46 AM

I remember several years ago I had to do this repair on the 850. Taking apart the seat while its still in the car and contorting my body in the backseat area to do it was just no fun. I remember the way I did it was I left the transmission unit in the car, but removed all the screws on the transmission unit using a offset screwdriver (a tiny ratchet with a screw bit) and doing everything else from there. Thankfully I didn't have to do this on my current S70. It would be easier now, with these instructions and the fact that I now have a garage to work in, instead of doing it on the streets with my legs hanging out of the car (when I did it on my 850).
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Red AT - Stage Zero completed, ARD Orange Tune, ARD Lightweight Crank Pulley. iPd HD endlinks, CJ's Strut brace, iPd Anti-Sway bars, Bilstein TC struts, AC Delco TCV Valve, iPd stainless steel braided brake hoses, StylinMotors silicone vacuum hoses and intercooler hoses, SC-901 w/ Center channel and prologic processor, Planet Audio 400W 4ch Amp, Blitzsafe AUX in adapter, Homelink Visor, rear armrest cupholders, LED sidemarkers, rear mudflaps, and the list goes on and on...

2007 Volvo S80 V8 Silver - Stock.
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#6 B Mac

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 09:15 AM

Yep :lol:

Fortunately the position was comfortable. I kept making excuses like I was too scared to take the leather off, or too cheap to buy new cables. But I finally did it and I'm glad I did lol.

Hopefully this write up will help others not wait as long as I did. If there was a write up like this one I definitely would have done it sooner.


:lol: Had mine for two years with the same excuse before I went to the junkyard and picked up two mint xc front seats...can't do that with a t5r though eh? :P

The name's Ben: '95 850, m56 w/ gripper lsd, Sachs 707 pressure plate w/ organic disc, built '02 RN 2.3L, worked '04 R head, Enem Y21 cams, Precision 5857B, ARD tune, blah blah blah
Big Will:your car is the most raw, awesome Volvo I've ever driven....mine is just shinier
Wingnut: Of course jewfro vs. gingerbreadman wrestling is mandatory entertainment.


#7 Vagabond

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 05:08 PM

Solid write up dude.

I really appreciate it. My seat is in gansta lean mode and it's killing my back.
1994 850 NA 200,XXX mi. Coming Soon: Mo Flow...

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#8 --Aaron--

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 05:13 PM

Curious........is this not a common issue for X70's? I haven't read too much about this happening with them.......maybe they revised the design for the later models?

#9 Dave 54

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 06:14 PM

Great write up Adam, I need to do this to the wifes.
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#10 krn

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 06:58 PM

I remember several years ago I had to do this repair on the 850. Taking apart the seat while its still in the car and contorting my body in the backseat area to do it was just no fun. I remember the way I did it was I left the transmission unit in the car, but removed all the screws on the transmission unit using a offset screwdriver (a tiny ratchet with a screw bit) and doing everything else from there. Thankfully I didn't have to do this on my current S70. It would be easier now, with these instructions and the fact that I now have a garage to work in, instead of doing it on the streets with my legs hanging out of the car (when I did it on my 850).


Some cars have the cover over the transmission on the opposite side so you don't have
to remove it. The Bay 13 instructions cover that with a mention (at the end) of the
type where you have to remove the transmission to replace the cable.

http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how_tos/miscellaneous_repairs_tips/seat_back_cable_replacement.html
1998 S70 T5M (IPD ECU, sway bars, end links, upper and lower poly mounts; Monroes; H&R springs; EST Turbo-back exhaust).
1995 855 GLT (stock). 2006 XC90 Ocean Race. 1 of "only" 800 (says so on the dash).

#11 Scootdiggity

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 10:03 PM

Curious........is this not a common issue for X70's? I haven't read too much about this happening with them.......maybe they revised the design for the later models?


70 series use pully system, that I have never seen fail
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#12 VolvoRine

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 10:47 PM

You definetaly have to Pin this Thread! FTW!!

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#13 Malvasi

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 02:30 PM

This is a fantastic write up, I need to do this to the driver side but it is in a comfy position so I am afforded the option to be lazy with it :)

What was the cost of the cable from the dealer do you remember?
95 850 T5-R - Stock with 190k miles

#14 Anatoli

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Posted 03 June 2011 - 04:08 PM

please pin this write-up.
I did one on my 95 855 a while back, but I did it cheat a bit, by way of not removing the part with gears.
(03 V70 2.4i at -- 17X kmiles)
(00 v70XC FWD LPT at -- 18X kmiles)




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