I have a 1978 245 DL station wagon.I've put 4 rebuilt calipers and 2 brake hoses on the left front.Each time the brakes work for a few miles and then the brake failure light comes on and the car pulls to the right when the brakes are applied.Any ideas?
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Brake Failure Light
Started by eggman5480, Jun 20 2011 09:02 PM
4 replies to this topic
#2
MistrThou
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Posted 21 June 2011 - 04:13 PM
eggman5480, on 20 June 2011 - 09:02 PM, said:
I have a 1978 245 DL station wagon.I've put 4 rebuilt calipers and 2 brake hoses on the left front.Each time the brakes work for a few miles and then the brake failure light comes on and the car pulls to the right when the brakes are applied.Any ideas?
I'd put a wager on it being the master cylinder.
#3
eggman5480
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Posted 22 June 2011 - 12:34 AM
I did replace the master cylinder.The pedal is not spongy,in fact as soon as I step on it the car starts to pull...Another strange fact---sometimes after sitting all night,the brake light will go out when I first step on it,and the brakes will work fine for several minutes!
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Posted 22 June 2011 - 03:37 AM
Well, obviously this is not the master cylinder or wheel cylinder, but it does sound like something to do with the dual-circuit nature of the braking system. I am assuming that you have allready checked over the whole system for leaks and damage to brake pipes ?
I'd be inclined to suspect the device which connects between the two brake circuits and has a switch in it which brings on the brake fail,light if the two circuits are out of balance. It is simply a sliding piston, with the pressure from each circuit on either side, which moves and operates a switch with a 'centre-off' arrangement. Ideally, when bleeding the brakes, the switch should be unscrewed and the piston locked in place. Otherwise the device can tend to give false indications.
I'd be inclined to suspect the device which connects between the two brake circuits and has a switch in it which brings on the brake fail,light if the two circuits are out of balance. It is simply a sliding piston, with the pressure from each circuit on either side, which moves and operates a switch with a 'centre-off' arrangement. Ideally, when bleeding the brakes, the switch should be unscrewed and the piston locked in place. Otherwise the device can tend to give false indications.
eggman5480, on 22 June 2011 - 12:34 AM, said:
I did replace the master cylinder.The pedal is not spongy,in fact as soon as I step on it the car starts to pull...Another strange fact---sometimes after sitting all night,the brake light will go out when I first step on it,and the brakes will work fine for several minutes!
#5
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Posted 24 June 2011 - 08:54 PM
Yep, most likely Brake Distribution/junction block . Notorious for setting brake light warning light on.
Are you sure the system is bled properly. IE car brakes straight. no pulls etc...
Are you sure the system is bled properly. IE car brakes straight. no pulls etc...
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