4 replies to this topic

[black98t5]

Tools needed:
1/4 flexible extension
10mm socket (the smaller the better)
torx 40 (bit and socket worked best for me)
torx 27
snap ring pliers

Parts:
upper oil cooler line
lower oil cooler line
2 hose clamps at radiator side
square thermostat o ring
2 oil cooler hose o ring at thermostat
2 oil cooler hose o ring at radiator
2 oil cooler hose seal at radiator
(some of these parts can probably be reused to save a little money)

*This is my second time doing this because the first time I ordered aftermarket lines to save money, ended up getting everything in and the upper line was .007" larger on the rad side then the one i pulled out. Needless to say it wouldnt fit so i had to take everything back apart and put the old upper line back in until fcp sent me oem ones. So i suggest you measure your old and new lines with calipers and possibly save some trouble. Also found large burrs on the engine side of the lines that could easily tear the small green o rings so check for that as well. Big thanks to fcp for fixing me up quickly!

First get the car on stands and remove the passenger side wheel. I then pulled the inner plastic fender well up and tied it off.

I then used the snap ring pliers to remove the upper and lower lines and let all the oil out that i could.

Upper line at rad


lower line at rad


I also removed the filter as i was changing my oil at the same time, it gave me more room to work with.
Under side view of leaky lines.


After that i removed the two torx 40's on the engine side and let the oil drain there.


After the oil had drained i removed the 10mm trouble maker bolt with a 1/4 flexible extension.


I took the thermostat off with the lines still attached so i could get to the torx 27 easier.
This is it after getting the clamp off.


After cleaning everything i greased the new green o rings that go on the engine side and put them in before putting the lines back in. Be careful as they are easily damaged.


There is only one way the tabs on the hoses will line up for the 10 mm bolt so its impossible to put the lines in the thermostat backwards.

After putting the lines back into the housing and clamping them i slid the whole assembly back up into place. I routed the lines where they were supposed to go and tied them to keep them from falling back down.

To keep the square o ring on the thermostat i used a lot of vaseline. Make sure to check that it has stayed in place before you fully tighten down the thermostat.

Next, and the hardest part for me, was getting the 10mm bolt back through the tabs on the lines and secured to the block. I held the lines up with my thumbs and started the bolt with my two index fingers. It was a real pain but it was the only method i could get to work for me. I read somewhere about stuffing the back of the socket with paper so it wont completely bite the bolt. If the bolt is all the way in the socket then its almost impossible to get it started straight. I couldnt get that method to work so i guess just do whatever will work for you.

Last, i plugged the lines into the radiator. Dont forget to put more oil back in for what you lost. Start it up and check for leaks, hopefully their wont be any and you can enjoy a job well done.

hope this helps!

[JordanW]

Good write up. I'll comment that I too purchased the aftermarket lines from FCP. I had the same problem with the upper line. It is just machined slightly too large. FCP was great to work with me to get the "Blue Box" Volvo line promptlh and it fit perfect.

My lower line is still the aftermarket line and after replacing the rubber spacer and o-ring on the radiator fitting, AGAIN, it still seems to weep a little oil. I'm guessing there may be a machining problem with the aftermarket lines.

Serves me right for not getting the re-ferbed lines from JLDC on here...

Eventhough FCP was awesome to deal with when I had the issue, if the OP had problems as well FCP might want to see what is up with their vendor for those lines.

[trs80]

Thank you for the write up. I will be doing this soon.

[FCP Groton]

This is a nice write-up. I will tell Scott and Max about the issue with the aftermarket lines.

[BlackBrick]

Nice write-up...tackled the job yesterday on my 850. a little silicon gasket material on the oil housing gasket makes that part EASY, as well as using both index fingers to start the 10mm bolt for the bracket (yes, you can get both hands up there, and I have big hands). Make sure to bolt the oil housing on first, as it makes the bracket job much easier, as it lines up. a small 10mm socket, long 1/4" extension, and 1/4" universal joint is a MUST.

But had the fun of doing it twice!!! Warning to others: bought the aftermarket upper/outlet oil cooler line from FCPGroton recently (Jan 2012). The connection to the radiator: the diameter is STILL machined too large to fit. I also have an aftermarket Nissens radiator, which I bought from FCP. Comparing it to OEM, you can visibily see the shaft is a tad larger. Crap. You'd think whoever is manufacturing these would have the original to compare with.

Ended up buying OEM that day for the upper/outlet, and it fit like a charm.

Also, I had bought the lower/inlet oil cooler line from NAPA, which is manufactured by Balkamp, for about $100. The fitting into the radiator was a bit tighter than OEM, but it fit. So another possibility.

Will try to return aftermarket line to FCP. They claim they've gone with a new vendor, but IT STILL DOESN'T FIT guys! Please test it on one of your Nissens radiators before selling this. It's a shame, but it seems I still cannot trust non-OEM from FCP Groton.