17 replies to this topic

[--Aaron--]

I found this: http://volvospeed.co...post__p__486355

Everything else really didn't have much helpful information.

That diagram really makes my eyes hurt.

I'm looking to find the rear deck speaker wiring information for my car. I need it to install a line/level converter. Apparently on the trunk side of the rear deck speakers there is no wiring showing so I'm assuming the rear deck speakers' wire is under the rear deck cover which I do not feel like removing.

The plan is to install the line/level converter behind the radio to the rear deck speaker wires so that my subwoofer will fade with the rear.

Unless maybe the rear deck speaker's wiring runs down toward the seating area? I can pick it up where ever I suppose, I just don't want to end up taking an overkill amount of things apart.

Thanks in advance.

Edited by --Aaron--, 03 July 2011 - 01:38 AM.

[BEJinFBK]

That's only one of the pages in the diagram book.
But at MVS, you can download the whole thing.
( Thanks, Matt! )

You'll find the other pages, including component locations
cabling pinouts and cable routing available here:

http://www.matthewsv...iagrams/<br />
at this link:

http://www.matthewsv...0_C70_Coupe.pdf

Manual pages ( PDF Pg # ):

184 ( 66 ), 185 ( 243 ), 82 ( 184 ) and 47 ( 151 )

should give you all you need for tapping in.
Be advised, the pages are a bit out of order...

[--Aaron--]

Thanks for the links! Is it just my computer being slow....the pages come up blank and lag the shit out of my browser.

Edit: Nevermind, just my computer being slow.

Edited by --Aaron--, 03 July 2011 - 02:52 AM.

[bdimag]

if you do that, do you expect your rear speakers to work?

are you sure your amp doesn't have speaker level inputs?

if you can't find the wiring near the rear speakers... how do you expect to wire the amp?

[--Aaron--]

I'm really sorry but I don't understand those schematics really. Would you mind translating for me? I think the speakers shown closest to the CD unit are the rear speakers which do give color breakdowns. Does that breakdown show where the rear deck speaker wires route from the speakers?

Actually, I could probably just look for the rear deck speakers by the color behind my radio instead. Either way works. I do have a V70R amplifier. The line/level converter I got accepts the wattage that the amplifier puts out so we're good there. It's a PAC something something.

I'm probably going to need my hand held here, schematics are not familiar to me at all.

I really appreciate it.

[--Aaron--]

bdimag, on 03 July 2011 - 02:57 AM, said:

if you do that, do you expect your rear speakers to work?

are you sure your amp doesn't have speaker level inputs?

if you can't find the wiring near the rear speakers... how do you expect to wire the amp?

Yep, I'm just going to tie into them. I did the same thing in my wife's car, just T off the wires I needed. Her's were just easier to find because of it being a cheaply built GM.

I'm positive the amplifier does not:



It does have signal sensing turn on to eliminate running a remote wire though. Which I do not plan on using, I want it to have a solid remote source.

I will find the rear speaker wires at the radio, wire in my converter, run my RCA's back the passenger side, opposite the side where the 4 AWG power wire will run.

My converter:

[bdimag]

yea i thought about that after I posted... i dunno I personally would rather find them at the rear then run a wire all the way back.

do you already have the RCA? may be cheaper to run speaker wire to the rear... might also be better to have the converter more accessible near the amp (will it even fit behind the radio?).


also this excerpt from the manual may change a few things:

Quote

IMPORTANT!
The sensitivity of the signal sensing turn-on circuit has been designed for high-level (speaker level) signals, not for low-level (preamp level) signals. Using this feature with low-level (preamp level) signals is not recommended. We do not recommend this method of turning the amplifier on and off as a default. Whenever possible, use the conventional remote turn-on lead method.

http://mobile.jlaudi...s/500_1_MAN.pdf

[--Aaron--]

bdimag, on 03 July 2011 - 03:13 AM, said:

yea i thought about that after I posted... i dunno I personally would rather find them at the rear then run a wire all the way back.

do you already have the RCA? may be cheaper to run speaker wire to the rear... might also be better to have the converter more accessible near the amp (will it even fit behind the radio?).


also this excerpt from the manual may change a few things:


http://mobile.jlaudi...s/500_1_MAN.pdf

If I can find them at the rear then yeah, that'd be great. I already ordered Tsunami 12 ft. RCA's. I stayed with a longer length to be safe. The converter doesn't have to be accessable, it is not an adjustable one. I sort of want to just hide it in the heater core area and run the RCA's from there....

Yeah, I read that. I'm using a solid remote source, no worries. I've been reading and reading that manual learning about all the amplifier's adjustments.

[bdimag]

alright lol -- i'm just saying you could skip the the remote wire and definately the speaker/line level converter....

[--Aaron--]

Ok, I'm starting to make sense of that schematic. It looks like 16/17 and 16/18 are my rear deck speakers. Now to figure out what damn color they are at the radio harness.

bdimag, on 03 July 2011 - 03:33 AM, said:

alright lol -- i'm just saying you could skip the the remote wire and definately the speaker/line level converter....

I see what you're saying, I just don't think the signal sensing turn on is a very dependable constant voltage to tell the amp to stay on. I've always been a fan of straight to an ignition source for the remote connection.

I cannot skip the line level converter, not with the amp not having speaker level inputs and the stock radio having no existing RCA outputs. Unless we're not on the same page about something...

--Aaron--, on 03 July 2011 - 03:37 AM, said:

Ok, I'm starting to make sense of that schematic. It looks like 16/17 and 16/18 are my rear deck speakers. Now to figure out what damn color they are at the radio harness.

Alright, it looks like I need B5, B6 for the right and B1, B2 for the left. Can someone who understands what their looking at confirm?

[bdimag]

--Aaron--, on 03 July 2011 - 03:40 AM, said:

Ok, I'm starting to make sense of that schematic. It looks like 16/17 and 16/18 are my rear deck speakers. Now to figure out what damn color they are at the radio harness.



I see what you're saying, I just don't think the signal sensing turn on is a very dependable constant voltage to tell the amp to stay on. I've always been a fan of straight to an ignition source for the remote connection.

I cannot skip the line level converter, not with the amp not having speaker level inputs and the stock radio having no existing RCA outputs. Unless we're not on the same page about something...



Alright, it looks like I need B5, B6 for the right and B1, B2 for the left. Can someone who understands what their looking at confirm?

we're not i guess...

That statement says don't use the auto turn on unless you're using speaker level inputs... so... if that amp has auto turn on, it has speaker level inputs... also, in that manual, just to the right of that paragraph (page 7) under AMPLIFIER INPUT SECTION, you see a picture showing RCA inputs and a switch above that says INPUT VOLTAGE - LOW/HIGH.

it has speaker level input using the RCA inputs (this is how my pioneer is setup)...

If I can find them, you can have the wires from my pioneer amp -- I wont be using them... or just get them from radioshack or online...

[--Aaron--]

Alright, double check me here:

Left Rear:

B1 - Negative - Brown w/ Black stripe
B2 - Positive - Brown w/ White stripe

Right Rear:

B5 - Negative - Purple w/ White stripe
B6 - Positive - Purple w/ Black stripe

If these are correct will they be the same color where they connect to my stock wiring harness from my V70R amp harness?

bdimag, on 03 July 2011 - 03:50 AM, said:

we're not i guess...

That statement says don't use the auto turn on unless you're using speaker level inputs... so... if that amp has auto turn on, it has speaker level inputs... also, in that manual, just to the right of that paragraph (page 7) under AMPLIFIER INPUT SECTION, you see a picture showing RCA inputs and a switch above that says INPUT VOLTAGE - LOW/HIGH.

it has speaker level input using the RCA inputs (this is how my pioneer is setup)...

If I can find them, you can have the wires from my pioneer amp -- I wont be using them... or just get them from radioshack or online...

Ah ok, we're on the same page now. So you're saying that when the amplifier was in it's BNIB state it probably had a cable similar to the one in your picture to use in place of RCA to RCA?

Edited by --Aaron--, 03 July 2011 - 04:08 AM.

[bdimag]

--Aaron--, on 03 July 2011 - 03:55 AM, said:

Ah ok, we're on the same page now. So you're saying that when the amplifier was in it's BNIB state it probably had a cable similar to the one in your picture to use in place of RCA to RCA?

yep
found em.

Attached Files

•  speaker_rca.jpg   39.27K   3 downloads

[--Aaron--]

bdimag, on 03 July 2011 - 03:55 AM, said:

yep
found em.

Hmm, that converter is a pretty good quality unit. I'm wondering if it'd hurt to use it with the RCA's I bought. Maybe I'll shoot JL an email and ask. If that's even possible.

I mean, it seems like it'd still be the same signal using a cable like yours or a converter/RCA's.

[--Aaron--]

I emailed JL Tech. Support, I'll post the reply when I get it.

[bdimag]

I've never actually used the speaker level feature of an amp

just one less part that could fail is all...


I pulled out my wiring book here (for 2000) and I'm getting the same numbers/colors.

the plugs also show the numbering scheme as a double-check...

[--Aaron--]

bdimag, on 03 July 2011 - 04:11 AM, said:

I've never actually used the speaker level feature of an amp

just one less part that could fail is all...


I pulled out my wiring book here (for 2000) and I'm getting the same numbers/colors.

the plugs also show the numbering scheme as a double-check...

Excellent, thanks so much for confirming. It took a while but I think I got the general hang of reading those schematics. I got the information I need, good deal.

Oh, that's cool. If the plugs also show what I need to know then that's even better!

I used to be a fan of aftermarket HU's and Pre Amp Outputs and honestly, I'd go with a nice flashy HU if my wife and I didn't live in the city. I like the low key, no attention getting stock radio.

[--Aaron--]

I forgot to toss in an update.

Everything's installed and working as it should.

JL's response in regards to using a line level convertor was simply that it's quite acceptable to do. They also said the amp is designed to take the high input signal straight through splicing RCA's into the speaker wiring. Either way is acceptable by their standards.

As posted above this is the convertor I used, pretty nice unit.



Here is how the install turned out, I may or may not hide the speaker wiring. I sort of like the speaker wiring on top of the carpet for ease of box removal.

Components used:

Tsunami 4 AWG wiring kit
PAC line level convertor
Streetwires 1 Farad Capacitor
JL Audio 500/1v1 Class D Mono Amplifier
12" Eclipse Aluminum Cone Subwoofer/Sealed Enclosure

I have to pull the sub out of the box to figure out which imparticular model it is. I can confidently say that it handles what it's being given with ease and sounds amazing. The sound quality is very comparable to a JL 12W3. I'm pretty sure the amplifier has a lot to do with that as well.

I plan on pulling the subwoofer out to check on model information before too long, I'd like to see if it's wired properly depending on resistance ratings. Mainly because if it is a dual 4 ohm subwoofer I need to make sure it's not wired in series at 8 ohms. No one likes losing power.

I'm pretty sure it's this one: http://www.eclipse-w.../sw/sw6200.html Which would be 500 RMS and 1500 MAX. None the less though I will have to confirm when I get around to doing so.

I'm assuming that it's wired correctly, I bought the amp and sub setup from the original buyer that purchased both from Tweeter and had them handle the install. Tweeter was the main stop for JL Audio around here prior to closing their doors.

I would love to replace it with a JL 12W6 or two W3's and will look more into that when money allows.





I honestly am thinking about staying with what I have, it does such a nice job of loading the cabin full of bass without rattling my car barely at all. I don't want to get into Dynamat and other methods of insulation. We'll see.

Happy Thumping.

Edited by --Aaron--, 04 August 2011 - 02:55 AM.