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How Much Play Is Allowed In Strut Mounts?


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#1 gilber33

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Posted 27 July 2011 - 02:59 PM

Typically, how much play is allowed between the strut mount and the bearing/bushing? I checked my strut mounts the other day and there is a little bit of a wiggle between the metal mounting surface and the rubber bushing/bearing, not much, but I can slightly wiggle the strut mount separately from the bearing. Is this to be expected as you get some road time on them, or are they supposed to be completely solid without any play like they are straight from the box?

Thanks, stupid question I know, but I just want to know what to look for. I'm tracking down that popping sound when my car shifts momentum (front to back or back to front), I don't think it's my strut mounts, but when I see that little bit of play, it makes me paranoid.

Gabe

Edited by gilber33, 27 July 2011 - 03:09 PM.

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#2 ozzimark

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Posted 27 July 2011 - 09:55 PM

I'd replace those mounts ASAP. There should be no perceptible radial or axial play in the bearing.

#3 FCP Groton

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Posted 27 July 2011 - 10:57 PM

+1

There should be no play at all.
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#4 gilber33

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 11:48 AM

I'd replace those mounts ASAP. There should be no perceptible radial or axial play in the bearing.

+1

There should be no play at all.


Well, wtf. Those lasted all but 5 months. OEM too. What the fuck? Why are these not lasting long at all? Are these KONI DIY coilovers really destroying them that fast? :unsure: :rolleyes:

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#5 erikv11

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 01:05 PM

Typically, how much play is allowed between the strut mount and the bearing/bushing? I checked my strut mounts the other day and there is a little bit of a wiggle between the metal mounting surface and the rubber bushing/bearing, not much, but I can slightly wiggle the strut mount separately from the bearing. Is this to be expected as you get some road time on them, or are they supposed to be completely solid without any play like they are straight from the box?

Thanks, stupid question I know, but I just want to know what to look for. I'm tracking down that popping sound when my car shifts momentum (front to back or back to front), I don't think it's my strut mounts, but when I see that little bit of play, it makes me paranoid.

Gabe

Apart from any potential issues with the strut mount bearing, for the record you will get exactly that popping sound with worn control arm bushings. Were they pre-loaded before tightening?

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#6 gilber33

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 01:16 PM

Apart from any potential issues with the strut mount bearing, for the record you will get exactly that popping sound with worn control arm bushings. Were they pre-loaded before tightening?


I am going to be doing Lemfoerder control arms when I put in new axles and the new transmission. I'm assuming the passenger side is bad. And no, I don't believe they were pre-loaded before tightening. What is the process to tightening the control arms under load?


I just need to determine why my strut mounts are not lasting more than 6 months at a time. I had aftermarket ones in, those lasted about two months, then I put in OEM ones, and those lasted about 5. It must just be the Koni DIY super stiff coilovers and the completely shitting Milwaukee roads. That's my only thought, there's no other reason for me to be going through those like this. :unsure:

Edited by gilber33, 28 July 2011 - 01:20 PM.

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#7 erikv11

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 03:41 PM

"Pre-loading" refers to putting the weight of the car on the control arm, then tightening up the bolts at the subframe. It is so the bushings don't get pinched in while there are far from the actual position during use. So the weight/load isn't actually the issue, the point is to have the control arm near-horizontal, like at resting position when the car is on the ground, before you tighten them.

The standard way to pre-load the control arm before tightening the bolts at the subframe is to jack up the arm with a bottle jack, although some people also put the wheels on and lower the car onto ramps. But it is a hassle to get the ratchet in there when it is on the ramps, I have done it both ways.

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#8 gilber33

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 05:06 PM

"Pre-loading" refers to putting the weight of the car on the control arm, then tightening up the bolts at the subframe. It is so the bushings don't get pinched in while there are far from the actual position during use. So the weight/load isn't actually the issue, the point is to have the control arm near-horizontal, like at resting position when the car is on the ground, before you tighten them.

The standard way to pre-load the control arm before tightening the bolts at the subframe is to jack up the arm with a bottle jack, although some people also put the wheels on and lower the car onto ramps. But it is a hassle to get the ratchet in there when it is on the ramps, I have done it both ways.


OK, I will do that when I install the new control arms. Thanks. :)

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#9 cn90

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 05:38 PM

Actually when I did my Front Suspension Overhaul, the brand-new Boge Strut Mount has a very very tiny bit of play.
You really have to hold the Strut Mount firmly and rock the inner race back and forth, then you will feel a very very very slight play.
I guess this is designed this way so it does not bind the steering wheel.
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#10 fastwagonhawaii

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 07:25 PM

Well I also go through them rather quickly, I am on my 5 set in 3 1/2 years. And i am running HD's on eibachs. So I will be following this topic closely to see what you find since I have basically given up to the fact that I will be making these part of my one year maintenance program lol. plus I keep a set always to the ready, just in case.
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