Starts fine when cold most of the time. After a short trip, it rarely starts until it cools down. I can hear clicking of one or more relays in the dash and probably the solenoid. When go straight the battery it starts normally, however the remote start pink wire at the back of the engine is not active. When I check voltages, I get 12 volts when it starts from the key, and when it doesn't start and just get clicks, the voltage is just 7.36 volt. I checked the adjustment on the start inhibitor switch (automatic) and it looks fine. I'm not a mechanic, so I don't know what may cause the voltage drop at the solenoid (and probably elsewhere, since some relays are just clicking when it won't start).
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Three Fat Tigers
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Posted 25 August 2011 - 05:47 AM
No relays involved in the operation of the starter, but the clicking points to a possible bad ignition switch or a problem with a battery cable. I'd start by doing a voltage drop test, especially when the issue is present:
→Hand held volt meter set to read DC volts, one test lead on the center of the negative battery post, the other test lead touch to good ground points on the body, engine, and alternator. Any reading of .1 volts or higher is a significant contact or cable issue that needs attention. For example my '92 240 reads .000 at all three points when off, and .062 when running, .091 at the alternator. You can check the positive cable the same way, between the center of the positive battery post and the starter, and the large red wire at the alternator. Check again with the parking lights on. I stress the word center as while the battery cable terminals may look ok from above, they may be hiding corrosion that you cant see until you pull them off.
If it's just the starter, it could be a bad ignition switch or inhibitor switch (aka neutral safety switch). Most common failure mode of the starter is for the solenoid to refuse to work when hot, and if this were the case you normally get it to work by placing a stick/rod/extra large screwdriver in contact with the solenoid and then strike that with a hammer/similar while the key is held in the start position; cost about the same to replace the entire starter versus just the solenoid. Otherwise for the inhibitor switch, you might try moving the gear selector in/out of park/neutral while holding the key in the start position.
Connecting power to the starter test terminal next to the dip stick sends power through the inhibitor switch before it reaches the solenoid. One quick test for this would be to make a jumper to connect between the starter test terminal and the solenoid, 18 gauge wire will suffice; this will bypass the inhibitor switch, and if that is/was the problem, you can leave it that way indefinitely; then if it fails to start when hot, measure the power again at the starter or test terminal, and if it's still low, odds are you will need to replace the electrical part of the ignition switch (very easy to do, just unplug and two screws from behind; same part used in 740/940s).
Another thread covering that: http://volvospeed.co...ouble-shooting/
→Hand held volt meter set to read DC volts, one test lead on the center of the negative battery post, the other test lead touch to good ground points on the body, engine, and alternator. Any reading of .1 volts or higher is a significant contact or cable issue that needs attention. For example my '92 240 reads .000 at all three points when off, and .062 when running, .091 at the alternator. You can check the positive cable the same way, between the center of the positive battery post and the starter, and the large red wire at the alternator. Check again with the parking lights on. I stress the word center as while the battery cable terminals may look ok from above, they may be hiding corrosion that you cant see until you pull them off.
If it's just the starter, it could be a bad ignition switch or inhibitor switch (aka neutral safety switch). Most common failure mode of the starter is for the solenoid to refuse to work when hot, and if this were the case you normally get it to work by placing a stick/rod/extra large screwdriver in contact with the solenoid and then strike that with a hammer/similar while the key is held in the start position; cost about the same to replace the entire starter versus just the solenoid. Otherwise for the inhibitor switch, you might try moving the gear selector in/out of park/neutral while holding the key in the start position.
Connecting power to the starter test terminal next to the dip stick sends power through the inhibitor switch before it reaches the solenoid. One quick test for this would be to make a jumper to connect between the starter test terminal and the solenoid, 18 gauge wire will suffice; this will bypass the inhibitor switch, and if that is/was the problem, you can leave it that way indefinitely; then if it fails to start when hot, measure the power again at the starter or test terminal, and if it's still low, odds are you will need to replace the electrical part of the ignition switch (very easy to do, just unplug and two screws from behind; same part used in 740/940s).
Another thread covering that: http://volvospeed.co...ouble-shooting/
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