hi all, i've been working at a volvo specialty shop for the past month or so and it made me want to pick one up for myself so i ended up getting a 1989 245. I've been going through and doing needed maintenance on it to keep it on the road. So far I have done:
Full synthetic oil change
Full synthetic tranny flush with new filter/gaskets
Power steering flush (probably need to do it again soon, it was near black, a week later it is looking brownish)
Replaced blown A/C hose
Replaced ball joint
Adjusted and tightened shifter assembly
I have a couple issues that I could use some help on however:
1. After I replaced the A/C line the pressure held steady so there is no major leaks anywhere any more. My issue is that the high side was getting way too high and the low side would not build adequate pressure. I have decently cold A/C coming out now but when the low side reached ~20 psi the drier started venting through the pressure valve. When we threw the high side gauge on it was sitting at high 400's. We bled some pressure out of that and I am sitting at ~17psi on the low side and ~350 on the high side. What could be causing this? Possibly the orifice tube?
2. Well the dreaded overdrive malfunction has occurred on this car. After some diagnosis we saw that the wire running from the shifter to the tranny had been replaced but in a crappy manner so we replaced that with proper wire, crimps, and electrical tape tonight but still no overdrive. The light goes on and off on the dash as intended but I do not hear the click of the OD relay. Is that about the only thing it could be if the wire is unbroken?
3. I pulled the common 1-1-3, 2-2-3, and 2-3-1 codes when i checked diag port 2. The first step we took was the replaced the aging injectors with updated 4 hole S70 injectors. This did not clear the codes, in fact they were right back after starting it back up. We pulled the AFM and tested it and it was within range and is a reman'd unit. What else should i be checking here? I haven't gotten to checking the make sure the warm air throttle on the air filter box is closing or the o2 sensor yet.
thanks for any help you can provide.
New Guy With A Few Issues
Started by nate2k5, Aug 27 2011 09:41 AM
2 replies to this topic
#2
Three Fat Tigers
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Posted 28 August 2011 - 03:36 AM
1) AC: odds are the expansion valve (no orifice tube) is causing the high pressure issue, not sure why the low is that low, that is definitely an odd combination to have a low low but a high high. What are you putting in the system and how was it evacuated?
2) IINM, the OD lamp is powered off terminal # 87a of the relay which shares an internal connection to terminal #87 which powers the solenoid so the light turning on/off with the button indicates that the OD relay is working. The lamp has 12V+ on one leg coming from the ignition switch, when the other leg sees 12v+ from the relay, the lamp goes out, only when the relay is off, the #87 terminals are connected to ground and thus the lamp turns on.
Normally, in a quiet neighborhood, you can lean way over down to toward the sill or lie down under the driver's side of the car and hear the solenoid on the trans clicking while you/someone operate the OD button (ignition on, engine not running). Otherwise you should be able to put your hand on it and feel the solenoid clicking while it is operated. Otherwise, use an incandescent test lamp, not a test meter, to verify power (enough amperage) reaching the solenoid under the car. And/or remove the solenoid from the transmission and bench test it, connect power and verity you hear it clicking, and if not try some carb cleaner or similar to see if you can free it up. To remove, jack up the entire driver's side of the car to access the solenoid (12mm bolts, flex head gearwrench works best), normally very little fluid will come out unless it's slightly over filled; recommend first cleaning the area around the solenoid first so dirt wont contaminate when reinstalling, brake cleaner/carb cleaner et cetera.
Most common failure mode of the solenoid itself is in the electromagnetic coil. If the solenoid is bad then you can take a drill and drill out some of the metal between the two holes, creating a channel to bypass the solenoid and allow the OD to stay on all the time, the metal is very soft so this is very easy to do, images for reference:
http://www.threefatt...olvo/ODmod1.jpg
http://www.threefatt...Dsolenoid-1.jpg
Only downside is you can't manually downshift out of 4th but otherwise has no effect on the normal operation of the transmission. Much cheaper than trying to replace the solenoid. Normally you can reuse the large o-ring along with some RTV.
Some additional photos here for reference: http://www.threefatt.../ODsolenoid.htm
3) How did you reset the codes, did you disconnect the battery? (most reliable method) Can you tell if the IAC is working and also make sure that the throttle position sensor is adjusts so that it clicks just as you open the throttle. Otherwise unplug the O2 sensor and see if that makes any difference, a bad sensor could cause that; for replacement I recommend a Bosch 15727 4 wire (extra ground 4th wire hookup is optional). Unplug the fuel ECU connector and inspect it for corrosion/oxidation. Thoroughly inspect the hose between the MAF sensor and the throttle body for any holes/cracks/splits.
S70 injectors? I've never heard of doing that, can you elaborate more on that, are they just plug and play? Is the resistance and flow rate the same?
2) IINM, the OD lamp is powered off terminal # 87a of the relay which shares an internal connection to terminal #87 which powers the solenoid so the light turning on/off with the button indicates that the OD relay is working. The lamp has 12V+ on one leg coming from the ignition switch, when the other leg sees 12v+ from the relay, the lamp goes out, only when the relay is off, the #87 terminals are connected to ground and thus the lamp turns on.
Normally, in a quiet neighborhood, you can lean way over down to toward the sill or lie down under the driver's side of the car and hear the solenoid on the trans clicking while you/someone operate the OD button (ignition on, engine not running). Otherwise you should be able to put your hand on it and feel the solenoid clicking while it is operated. Otherwise, use an incandescent test lamp, not a test meter, to verify power (enough amperage) reaching the solenoid under the car. And/or remove the solenoid from the transmission and bench test it, connect power and verity you hear it clicking, and if not try some carb cleaner or similar to see if you can free it up. To remove, jack up the entire driver's side of the car to access the solenoid (12mm bolts, flex head gearwrench works best), normally very little fluid will come out unless it's slightly over filled; recommend first cleaning the area around the solenoid first so dirt wont contaminate when reinstalling, brake cleaner/carb cleaner et cetera.
Most common failure mode of the solenoid itself is in the electromagnetic coil. If the solenoid is bad then you can take a drill and drill out some of the metal between the two holes, creating a channel to bypass the solenoid and allow the OD to stay on all the time, the metal is very soft so this is very easy to do, images for reference:
http://www.threefatt...olvo/ODmod1.jpg
http://www.threefatt...Dsolenoid-1.jpg
Only downside is you can't manually downshift out of 4th but otherwise has no effect on the normal operation of the transmission. Much cheaper than trying to replace the solenoid. Normally you can reuse the large o-ring along with some RTV.
Some additional photos here for reference: http://www.threefatt.../ODsolenoid.htm
3) How did you reset the codes, did you disconnect the battery? (most reliable method) Can you tell if the IAC is working and also make sure that the throttle position sensor is adjusts so that it clicks just as you open the throttle. Otherwise unplug the O2 sensor and see if that makes any difference, a bad sensor could cause that; for replacement I recommend a Bosch 15727 4 wire (extra ground 4th wire hookup is optional). Unplug the fuel ECU connector and inspect it for corrosion/oxidation. Thoroughly inspect the hose between the MAF sensor and the throttle body for any holes/cracks/splits.
S70 injectors? I've never heard of doing that, can you elaborate more on that, are they just plug and play? Is the resistance and flow rate the same?
#3
nate2k5
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Newbie
Posted 28 August 2011 - 06:21 AM
1. after driving around today in decently warm weather the AC works adequately so i will probably just not worry about it till it doesn't work any more. we used a vacuum pump to evacuate it, we don't have an AC machine at the shop as it would not be cost effective. it has been converted to r134a, it had a huge leak in the compressor to drier line which may have been caused by the extended high pressure.
2. took the car on the interstate today and it still would not shift into OD on the way to my destination (about 5 miles away). on the way back however it kicked into OD about half way and then worked properly in town driving also. i've read it can take a while to kick in but that seems excessive.
3. the codes were reset using the probe and diag port 2 as detailed in the reset procedure. it was throwing 1-1-3, 2-3-2, and 2-2-3 initially so we reset them, it was done correctly because afterwards it was giving the 1-1-1 code. we had some spare injectors laying around so we just threw them in and right after start up and idle it threw 1-1-3 and 2-2-3 again but lost the other code. the injectors are known good and the engine runs just fine.
the injectors we put in were either from an 850 or S70, now that i think of it they were most likely 850 injectors. they were still bosch 19lb and were just plug and play but have four holes instead of one.
2. took the car on the interstate today and it still would not shift into OD on the way to my destination (about 5 miles away). on the way back however it kicked into OD about half way and then worked properly in town driving also. i've read it can take a while to kick in but that seems excessive.
3. the codes were reset using the probe and diag port 2 as detailed in the reset procedure. it was throwing 1-1-3, 2-3-2, and 2-2-3 initially so we reset them, it was done correctly because afterwards it was giving the 1-1-1 code. we had some spare injectors laying around so we just threw them in and right after start up and idle it threw 1-1-3 and 2-2-3 again but lost the other code. the injectors are known good and the engine runs just fine.
the injectors we put in were either from an 850 or S70, now that i think of it they were most likely 850 injectors. they were still bosch 19lb and were just plug and play but have four holes instead of one.
