131 replies to this topic

[lookforjoe]

Trying to determine my best course of action after the header install. Underhood/engine bay temps are radically higher. I am going to wrap the header a second time, and try to better wrap the collector, but that's problematic.

I know some just remove the cowl seal & even lift the back of the hood at the hinges. I'm trying to find concrete info on exactly how the engine bay air flow was designed to function; my understanding is that the hood is sealed to force airflow over & then down into the tunnel - so when moving, removing the cowl seal would be a bad thing, no?

I haven't found a universal hood scoop that would work as far as I can tell, I know Falcone slotted his, and 850 Kompressor has a scoop. I'm wondering what is the best path to take here. I'd prefer to build something with an inner run off tray, if I do it at all - I would want it as a year-round solution.

Any thoughts, ideas?

[ozzimark]

If you're trying to get the heat out of the engine bay, something like this is probably your best bet, disregarding water concerns:



Another option is to bend up a heat shield to cover up your manifold and reflect the heat downward.

[TRACStar]

When you say wrapping the header again do you mean a second layer per runner, or wrapping the entire header as one?

Side note, I removed my cowl seal everywhere except for by the fuse box and after a spirited drive you can see and feel the heat escaping. I have no measurements to compare.

[lookforjoe]

Mark - yes, I may fabricate a heat shield coming up off the cam cover to deflect it back down.

TRACstar - wrap each individual runner, then wrap collector.

[rj240]

I've been looking for a louvered vent, say about 20"x5", that can be installed near the rear edge of the hood, basically over the turbo area...to let all the hear escape...

Haven't been able to find anything...

[BlackT5]

What about getting the manifold coated before re-wrapping it? You could do the downpipe and turbine housing also. I guess the only thing for you would be the downtime to have it sent out unless there is somewhere locally.

[C30T5*36]

The exhaust manifold was melting the plastic firewall cover on my C30 after putting in the Gt3071r. I had the header titanium ceramic coated and the problem went away.

[Mesoam]

I remember a few different members cut the rear section out above the exhaust mani (the triangle shape that is in between the bracing). I imagine this would be your best bet for an immediate fix

[Mesoam]

found it

[Emiel]

Florian did the same years ago with good results.



Don't raise the rear of the hood, it will get pretty warm inside with the A/C turned off.

[BlackT5]

Emiel, on 01 September 2011 - 03:48 PM, said:

Florian did the same years ago with good results.



Don't raise the rear of the hood, it will get pretty warm inside with the A/C turned off.

Picture doesn't work for me?

[PyROTech]

BlackT5, on 01 September 2011 - 04:06 PM, said:

Picture doesn't work for me?

[Emiel]

BlackT5, on 01 September 2011 - 04:06 PM, said:

Picture doesn't work for me?

I see, doesn't work here either...

http://nordicturbo.n...al_DSC00344.jpg

*edit..

Edited by Emiel, 01 September 2011 - 04:18 PM.

[Q-Ship]

I seem to remember a diagram around here somewhere that showed air pressures along the hood, but I can't find it right now.

[Che'_Moderator]

LULZ. Another reason why equal length runners are not always a good idea. Get a sheet of inconel and fab a heat shield. That should take care of it.

[claymore]

Mine works fine

[Che'_Moderator]

If its your turbo thats causing the issue not the pipes something like this makes a huge difference.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item3a50569bbc

[OptimusGlen]

NACA duct maybe?

[Texas850Turbo]

Chuck is right, a heat shield works much better than header wrap or ceramic coating. Some basic heat transfer is helpful here. A stagnant layer of air, even if it's only a couple tenths of an inch across, conducts almost no heat. When you wrap the headers the surface temperature drops somewhat but you still get convection effects throughout the engine bay from the fact that everything is open to airflow.

Inconel is nice but difficult to work with and expensive. I've made heat shields out of aluminum to protect a carbon monocoque with reflective gold or silver tape on the inside that worked great, or even just plain aluminum as it is fairly reflective in the first place.

[Che'_Moderator]

If you go the inconel route you can proabably get a half sheet for ~400. That would be enough to crank out atleast 10 shields. IE if someone was interested GB time. For ~60 in materials you get an inconel shield and back it with graphite held on with rivets. You could have the turbo glowing red, the sheild half an inch off off the turbo and probably touch the graphite side and feel very little heat.