8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 03 October 2011 - 06:49 AM
So, I have an infinity basslink system in the back. I installed it about 5-6 months ago. Power comes from a 12 gauge wire through the car. The radio has a dedicated subwoofer mono outlet, so I have a 1->2 rca splitter. The sub has worked fine until up to about a couple weeks ago. It just won't boom like it used to. I've checked and rechecked the ground, both fuses, all rca connections, settings on the head unit, etc. The servo led still blinks on the system so i know it is getting audio input but there is no bass.
cliff notes: sub doesn't work, sub gets power, all connections good, joey is sad
HELP??A?@?!??!?!
cliff notes: sub doesn't work, sub gets power, all connections good, joey is sad
HELP??A?@?!??!?!
#2
Posted 03 October 2011 - 03:03 PM
I have the bass link 2... and it did this when one of the RCA's was unplugged. I'd start there. Perhaps the 1->2 adapter is unhappy.
Really really am pleased with this box otherwise, though.
EDIT: Also... unplug the deck completely and let it sit for a few minutes and plug it back in. Had a fluke with the stock radio after someone attempted to jump their car with the cables backwards to mine. :-/
Really really am pleased with this box otherwise, though.
EDIT: Also... unplug the deck completely and let it sit for a few minutes and plug it back in. Had a fluke with the stock radio after someone attempted to jump their car with the cables backwards to mine. :-/
1998 V70 R AWD - M66 - 2.5T - FMIC
1991 244 NA - M47
![]()
#3
Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:48 PM
That must be one small amp setup if you're running 12 gauge. I'm running 4 gauge on mine but then again i'm running 2 amps that claim to push 800w RMS. If you've heard of Steve Meade (famous for his Tahoe on youtube) i remember him saying that If you can take the sub out of the box, a simple way to test if it isn't fried is by hooking up your cars battery directly to the (+) and (-) terminals on the sub. Don't leave it connected though, just quickly connect it and disconnect it. If the sub moves then its still good.
'98 T5M 163k and still kickin. [6000k HID lows and fogs, OBX exhaust, OBX strut brace, MBC @ 12psi, IPD Sport Springs, Billstein TCs]
'83 Chevy Caprice (Lead Sled). 67k original miles, 4 bolt 350 swap.
'83 Chevy Caprice (Lead Sled). 67k original miles, 4 bolt 350 swap.
#5
Posted 03 October 2011 - 11:28 PM
Box83Brick98, on 03 October 2011 - 09:48 PM, said:
That must be one small amp setup if you're running 12 gauge. I'm running 4 gauge on mine but then again i'm running 2 amps that claim to push 800w RMS. If you've heard of Steve Meade (famous for his Tahoe on youtube) i remember him saying that If you can take the sub out of the box, a simple way to test if it isn't fried is by hooking up your cars battery directly to the (+) and (-) terminals on the sub. Don't leave it connected though, just quickly connect it and disconnect it. If the sub moves then its still good.
Good idea, but a little over the top on the power source, IMHO.
Kinda like weeding your lawn with a cruise missile...
You can do the same thing with a AA battery and save yourself some trouble.
Going with a small speaker popper is MUCH easier and there's no risk of smoking a voice coil.
'98 V70R - Upsolute ECU - Strut Brace - Arctic Grade Oil Lines - E-codes / SilverStars - Spoiler - XC Grill
#7
Posted 04 October 2011 - 09:20 PM
I'd run a bigger gauge wire. 10 gauge at least but 8 would probably be better. Should help with your amp getting power. Crutchfield has a list of recommended gauges depending on your current draw and length of wire. I believe 12volt has one too.
EST intake/Koni shocks&struts/H&R springs/SS brake lines
Brembo pads&rotors/3inches from the turbo back
Brembo pads&rotors/3inches from the turbo back
#8
Posted 06 October 2011 - 10:21 PM
BEJinFBK, on 03 October 2011 - 11:28 PM, said:
Little overkill there?
Good idea, but a little over the top on the power source, IMHO.
Kinda like weeding your lawn with a cruise missile...
You can do the same thing with a AA battery and save yourself some trouble.
Going with a small speaker popper is MUCH easier and there's no risk of smoking a voice coil.
Good idea, but a little over the top on the power source, IMHO.
Kinda like weeding your lawn with a cruise missile...
You can do the same thing with a AA battery and save yourself some trouble.
Going with a small speaker popper is MUCH easier and there's no risk of smoking a voice coil.
Hey i'm just saying what that guy said on youtube. He does know his stuff by the way but you do have a point using a AA for simplicity's sake.
'98 T5M 163k and still kickin. [6000k HID lows and fogs, OBX exhaust, OBX strut brace, MBC @ 12psi, IPD Sport Springs, Billstein TCs]
'83 Chevy Caprice (Lead Sled). 67k original miles, 4 bolt 350 swap.
'83 Chevy Caprice (Lead Sled). 67k original miles, 4 bolt 350 swap.
#9
Posted 07 October 2011 - 12:50 AM
Box83Brick98, on 06 October 2011 - 10:21 PM, said:
Hey i'm just saying what that guy said on youtube. He does know his stuff by the way but you do have a point using a AA for simplicity's sake.
A battery will smoke a voice coil wit da quickness!
Wanna have some fun? Find a toasted one and time it...
Back in the day, we'd sit around the shop for a few beers after work on
a friday night and perform the "AC Voice Coil Test" on thrashed woofers.
All you need is a plain old 120 volt power cord with a couple
of alligator clip on the business end and You can make smoke TOO!
A good quality woofer will give you a 60 hz hum for a while before the smoke comes out...
Little speakers go even faster!
Ahhh - Good Times...
'98 V70R - Upsolute ECU - Strut Brace - Arctic Grade Oil Lines - E-codes / SilverStars - Spoiler - XC Grill
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users















