36 replies to this topic

[JCviggen]

Boxman, on 05 October 2011 - 10:09 AM, said:

As for the horror story; i've actualy heard several. One from a Dutch guy who said those Glyco's were bad, others from someone on eBay who spun them, but had no problems with OEMS, and another on here who had them fall apart, badly damaging his crankshaft.

Not all Glyco's are the same. That's only the brand name. For our cars they have standard bearings and sputter bearings. Standard is around 30 euros, sputter is around 200 euros. Same box, same name, only the sticker on it is different. But a huge difference in bearing quality. I would not assemble an engine using glyco standard. A friend of mine accidentally did and after a few thousand miles they were gone (rod bearings, they have much less surface area than mains so they get most abuse) the sputters are similar to OEM volvo bearings which are also sputtered.

[Boxman]

Thought as much. Only question remains; how can the Volvo OEM's be 30 euro's, while the GLyco sputters are 200?

[B Mac]

If you're rebuilding the motor just get the oem bearings...you'll be kicking yourself if something happens that could have been avoided by spending a little extra cash.

[JCviggen]

I don't know about over there but here in Belgium and Germany the OEM volvo turbo bearings cost a lot more than 30 for a set (unless prices changed dramatically compared to 2yrs ago)

Edited by JCviggen, 06 October 2011 - 09:02 PM.

[Boxman]

Weird though.. How much do you pay for them? What volvo partnumber do you use for them?

I'm located in the Netherlands by the way, so shouldn't really make much difference those prices..

[Alan M]

Genuine turbo bearing sets for 5 here in the UK were around £140 with a good 15-20% discount from the dealer on Volvo UK prices.

[JCviggen]

Boxman, on 06 October 2011 - 09:56 PM, said:

Weird though.. How much do you pay for them? What volvo partnumber do you use for them?

I'm located in the Netherlands by the way, so shouldn't really make much difference those prices..

Don't have the p/n handy, but it's at least 30+ per 2 bearing halves (cylinder) 170-180 euro for 5 iirc. Make sure you are not getting quoted the wrong bearings.

[Johann]

71-3926/5 STD

[dublin14]

I went with OEM bearings. Thats what you dont cheap out on when doing a build.

JCviggen, on 07 October 2011 - 10:38 AM, said:

Don't have the p/n handy, but it's at least 30+ per 2 bearing halves (cylinder) 170-180 euro for 5 iirc. Make sure you are not getting quoted the wrong bearings.

Do you still have the 850?

[Boxman]

Right, so I ordered 1 set of 2 shells, and not a set of 10. That makes perfect sense then

[Boxman]

So one remaining question; do I need new bolts for the mid section, or can I reuse the ones in there now? They were brand new original Volvo, and I've only put them in there. I haven't got any further than that, the engine has never run. So it'd make me think there was no stress on the bolts yet. Should I really toss them out and replace them with new ones?

[wizzard_al]

Pain in the arse, but I'd say yes. These are torque to yield, and even though you haven't stressed them with an operational engine, I am reluctant to say re-use them. That is MY personal preference, but I can't say whether you are risking problems or not. Just cheap insurance.

[notaduc]

"Selective fit" is just a way to streamline assembly. At the factory, they just measure and fit the correct size bearing "stacking tolerances". When rebuilding the reason for one size main bearings is that traditionally you would refinish the crank to the to like dimensions, and align bore and or hone the block as needed, then stack tolerances on a much smaller scale. Not simply install the bearings.

Volvo is not any more picky about main tolerances than anyone else, many manufactures use a similar system. BMW does this on most of their engines for sure.

I have the Clevite bearings, so far the crank journals for the main are all +/- a tenth, which I wouldnt expect anything closer, and will only have to polish it. Havent retorqued and checked the block yet. But we'll see.

[Boxman]

Ok, got the crank out and read the markings

My block is 1baabbb and my crank is 1bbbbbb. So I figured out that I need 10 yellows and 2 reds. One question though:

Which way does this code run? I'd say the second letter is for the one with the flange, but I might as well have it the wrong way around. So from where to where does the code describe the block? Haynes manual is not clear on this one.

[wizzard_al]

Numbering starts after the "1" which tells you to start at the front end of the engine for your numbering.

baabbb is the block bearings, 1 through 6. The thrust bearing (flanged bearing) is #5, so you have b for both the block and the crank.

bbbbbb is the crank and in this case, it makes it easier to pick bearings for it. .

Yes, yellows mostly, but only two complete reds and 6 complete yellow sets. They come as a set for the bearing position, a top and bottom half.

by bearing
1 - yellows for both halves This is the bearing at the front of the block, right behind the oil pump.
2 - red top, yellow bottom
3 - red top, yellow bottom
4-6 - yellow both halves

So, you do not use the bottom half of the 2 red bearing shells, and you don't use the top half of the two yellow bearing shells, at positions 2 and 3 on the block.

Rod bearings have nothing to do with these numbered shells, they are only for the block and intermediate carrier bearings. I.e., the main bearings for the crank.

Edited by wizzard_al, 16 October 2011 - 08:16 PM.

[Jardim]

B Mac, on 06 October 2011 - 08:03 PM, said:

If you're rebuilding the motor just get the oem bearings...you'll be kicking yourself if something happens that could have been avoided by spending a little extra cash.

Never built a motor in my life but you had a 280ish whp car on a 250ish thousand mile motor before your build....So OEM bearings seem to do their job pretty damn well.

[boxpin]

Excellent informative thread