29 replies to this topic

[Volvoboi24]

Hi All,

Tried searching, but posts only talked about the audio signals, not the power.

Where is the best place to tap into the 12V for amp / sub?

Or do I have to route the wires directly from the battery? If so, how did you guys route the wires?

Thanks in advance!

Jae

1998 S70, SC-900 HU.

[Burn-E]

Off the switched 12v line into the back of the radio? That's where I did mine.

[Che'_Moderator]

Ummm.

What amp and how much power you plan to draw? Anythying over call it 150w and you will need to run new wires. As for pass through, there are write ups on both left and ride side pass throughts. Right side is best for any wire heavier than 1ga. Left is fine for everything else.

[scumcity14]

Are you talking actual amp power? or the power turn on lead?

[Che'_Moderator]

If its signal wire for trigger just use the speakers, or antenna.

[BEJinFBK]

I don't care how much power you're drawing, big power
for any sub amp should always come from the battery.
And don't forget a fuse for that cable AT the battery.
Burning Volvos smell awful...

[Volvoboi24]

Sorry, should have been more specific - I'm going to install an Infinity Basslink (200W from the spec sheet).

[Jigga]

Its right on the verge, but if you want to bump that shit you need to run a 8ga wire.

[Volvoboi24]

Thanks for your help everyone.

[thewhiteguy1]

For what its worth I am running a 10 or 12 gauge wire down the drivers side area for the basslink. Straight from the battery with an inline fuse, even though there is a fuse on the amp portion already. its a great sub.

[optimus prime]

dont mess around run 8 gauge from the battery make sure you have a fuse within in 18" of the battery.run the signal wire from the antenna. do your ground in the trunk .make sure you use a wire brush to clean the metal where you will be grounding from. dont forget if you want to avoid alternator whine its a good idea to run your rca's and your power on opposite sides of the car. if you are patching into the rear speaker lines to get sound to the unit you dont need a remote wire though just power from battery ground in the trunk splice into the rear speaker wires connect to the speaker level inputs. although you could get away with 12-10 gauge wire 8 would provide room for upgrade later and is just about the same price if you buy in kit form.

[EVL WAGN]

^^^this^^^

I would never ever ever run anything less than 8awg....did I mention EVER? And don't cheap out with a crimp together ATC fuse holder either...spend a few extra bucks and run an AGU holder.

[Volvoboi24]

Thanks! But if I don't use the remote wire, wouldn't the amp / sub never turn off? I thought you needed the remote wire to tell it to turn off when the radio isn't on...

[Che'_Moderator]

Thanks! But if I don't use the remote wire, wouldn't the amp / sub never turn off? I thought you needed the remote wire to tell it to turn off when the radio isn't on...

You only need the remote wire if you are using RCA or someone other line leval out. Speaker/power level outs do not need the trigger wire.

[Volvoboi24]

Thanks again everyone your help!

[T-RRRRR]

You only need the remote wire if you are using RCA or someone other line leval out. Speaker/power level outs do not need the trigger wire.

So this is saying if A) i'm using a converter to get my RCA signal from the rear speakers - then I can forget about running the remote wire

[Che'_Moderator]

So this is saying if A) i'm using a converter to get my RCA signal from the rear speakers - then I can forget about running the remote wire

Why would you ever do that?

[bdimag]

You only need the remote wire if you are using RCA or someone other line leval out.

So this is saying if A) i'm using a converter to get my RCA signal from the rear speakers - then I can forget about running the remote wire

no, because you're converting it to line level

Why would you ever do that?

but isn't that the norm if your h/u doesn't have a sub out?

[Che'_Moderator]

no, because you're converting it to line level





but isn't that the norm if your h/u doesn't have a sub out?

Then just use powered outs. Converting back to line level is only going to make the quality worse

[98t5M]

Maybe I'm just picky but I would but ground to the chassis either, I would run a proper wire the same gauge as the power from the negative on the battery.