selling a set of s60r wheels 18"/7" great condition, straight center hub was bored to 65.1 mm for use on my 98 v70 will fit any volvo with a 65.1 hub or smaller. $800
selling remote fobs, these are all new in box . the battery's may need to be replaced $25
i work at a former Volvo dealer and these were some of the inventory left behind
launch x431 scanner , lightly used looks new i have all parts and papers, im the original ower and can transfer ownership to you with launch. upgrade able software. matco sells these scanners now
willing to ship, shipping on fobs is $10 the scanner and wheels i need to get a estimate crypto currency bitcoin accepted. email me firstname.lastname@example.org parts are located in concord california
2008 Volvo C30 1.0 T5 with 130k miles.
On cold startup the car runs rough bouncing between 1500-2000 rpm for about 10 sec before returning to 1500 until it is warm, the following codes have appeared: P0101 MAF circuit range/performance, and P0300 Random/ Multiple cylinder misfire. I have taken the following steps to solve the issue:
About a year ago Cylinder 3 coil pack was replaced due to P303 code (issue was solved, just added as background)
New MAF sensor was installed (after attempting to clean the stock Bosch unit, which also didn’t stop the code from reappearing) 2 weeks ago
All 5 spark plugs replaced with Bosch units (3 months ago)
New air filter, which was installed at the same time as the spark plugs
The MAF problem started about a month ago, but the rough idle only 2 weeks ago, even after clearing the codes, they return after 1 or 2 driving cycles. Rough start up even happens after codes are cleared.
Anybody had this issue, or have any advice as to what the next steps should be?
maybe someone can help me or give me the instructions.
I have 2010 year Volvo XC60, 2.4 diesel, D4 engine, automatic transmission, AWD.
Problem is for some reason the car does not have turbo boost anymore. Turbo is working only after the cold start 80 km/h and then turns himself off. If the engine temperature is 90C, ignition needs to be off at least ~ 10 minutes and then turbo works again but only up to 80 km/h. And then turns himself off again.
At first I had problem with turbo which leaked oil, the bottom part of the engine was all oily. Second problem was smoke in the interior and under the bonnet. Smoke came from rear part of the engine, not from exhaust! No power loss, car went very well.
Local service they changed turbo to the new one (used but factory restored) and installed the new turbo. Oil leak was goen but smoke remained. Smoke came same place, under the bonnet, from rear part of the engine where is the turbo. I went back to the service and they did guarantee works. Uninstalled turbo and sent the turbo to the seller, who checked that everything was okay. Before the repairman started to install turbo again he discovered broken plastic tube / pipe which connects two turbos with each other. And I think this was the problem why engine sometime smoked. Also in the service they washed DPF filter. I have not any idea why because with this car I have not any problems with DPF and it worked before the service very well.
Ok turbo and tube were installed, at the beginning car works. Suddenly threre was not turbo boost any more.
No fault codes / lights in the dashboard. Diagnostics does not show any fault codes. Car is not smoking and starts up well but after the first approx. 300 meters turbo pressure is gone.
MAP sensor is working, EGR is working, turbo valve /controller (flap) is working. No smoke from exhaust.
I suspect that maybe they ruined in service DPF filter or DPF filter temperature sensor. I have no idea how they did this task and this was the task which I have not ordered from him.
I am having troubles finding information on the name of a part that I need to replace. It's a part of maintenance to my 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo 2.3L. I want to order it and replace it since its cracked. If I don't know the name of it I cant order it. It's under the fuel rail and plugs (elbow rubber ends)into the manifold then the line extends to the throttle body tree near the vacuum lines. The color of the line is yellow except for the elbow rubber ends. It's about a foot in length. Does anyone know what the exact name for this so I can order it online?
I had to put electrical tape on the elbow end of the tree so that's what you see.
I have just recently installed a 20T turbo, 7 cm2 turbo exhaust housing, NA intake and exhaust cams, NA throttle body and air intake, BOSCH EV14 550 cc/min injectors, and an ARD tune. I did this about two days ago now and when I finished putting everything on the car started up fine. I let the car idle for about 5 minutes, and then took the car for a test drive. As a side note I have swapped the automatic transmission for a manual M56H transmission, this was many months ago. But, I took the car for a test drive and when I would accelerate the car would not respond to the throttle then would backfire a few times, and would then repeat a few more times before the car lost all form of power and stalled itself out. I tried turning the car over but it would only crank not start. The next day I went over a few things to see what could be causing the issue. I pulled the spark plugs out and there was not a single hint of too much fuel. I next checked the shredder valve to be sure I was getting fuel and yes I did have fuel pressure. When I installed the cams which are both from an NA car I retarded the exhaust cam to -4 degrees and the intake cam to -6 degrees. ARD recommended, -4 exhaust and -8 intake, but I thought this a bit much. Does anyone know if the cams are the problem? The only other thing I can think of is that the tune is goofed in some way. The car did start and the car idled down to a beautiful purr but after driving it, which I only did 1/4 to 1/2 throttle (hard to remember but i know the car had to adjust parameters before I really lay into it so I did not go heavy), the car backfired then stalled and will not start again. If anyone has any info they would like to share please do.