So I went to replace the oil cooler lines on our '97 850 GLT (LPT) and noticed that the bolt which holds the line bracket is missing.
I also noticed that the intake manifold bracket which supports the intake manifold is just flopping around in there, the two bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block and intake manifold are missing. The only thing keeping it from falling out is the bolt to the wiring harness. So instead of the bracket support the wiring harness, the wiring harness is supporting the bracket. So much for using that "volvo specialist" shop to have the PCV done just after I bought the car seven years ago. Grrrrrr.....
So anyway it's Sunday and I can match the bolts I need off our other 850, and would like to just go to the hardware store to find replacements. But my question is: do I need to be careful which material the replacement bolts are made of (assuming I can find replacements)? Should I get stainless, or if not that, then what? All of the above bolts go into either the engine block or intake manifold (aluminum).
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What Material For Replacement Bolt?
Started by bob850, Nov 13 2011 01:48 PM
4 replies to this topic
#1
bob850
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Posted 13 November 2011 - 01:48 PM
1996 850 Turbo Wagon - approx 110K miles, IPD Stage 1 ECU, Koni FSD, IPD sways, Snabb intake pipe, IPD HD TCV, IPD HD CBV
1997 850 GLT Wagon (LPT) - approx 160K miles, Koni FSD, IPD sways & endlinks, SAS delete
1997 850 GLT Wagon (LPT) - approx 160K miles, Koni FSD, IPD sways & endlinks, SAS delete
#2
erikv11
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Posted 13 November 2011 - 04:41 PM
All three of those bolts are non-bearing, they just hold things in a certain spot. Get standard grade 5, steel bolts that match the thread pitch and length of your samples, and you are good to go.
'96 NA 855 | 99 k | daily driver
'95 R 854 | 177 k | project, not running
#3
bob850
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Posted 13 November 2011 - 07:32 PM
Okay thanks. I thought there was some issue with differing metals and corrosion or something when used with the aluminum. I'll get stainless if they have them at the hardware store.
1996 850 Turbo Wagon - approx 110K miles, IPD Stage 1 ECU, Koni FSD, IPD sways, Snabb intake pipe, IPD HD TCV, IPD HD CBV
1997 850 GLT Wagon (LPT) - approx 160K miles, Koni FSD, IPD sways & endlinks, SAS delete
1997 850 GLT Wagon (LPT) - approx 160K miles, Koni FSD, IPD sways & endlinks, SAS delete
#4
fastwagonhawaii
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Posted 14 November 2011 - 12:23 AM
I would go stainless also, if you can find them. As I do work on my car I am replacing bolts with stainless where ever possible. especially with all the salt in the air here in Hawaii . Being in Indiana i am sure you have salt issues once the the snow falls.
1996 850 turbo wagon auto, Custome intake, MSD coil, IPD spark plug wires, Eibach springs, Bilstiens HD, Mesh grill, IPD strut tower bar,ultra racing 2 point rear strut bar, Tiki end-links,IPD intake manifold spacer, FCP silicone inter-cooler hoses, stoptech steel braided brake lines front and rear, completely rebuilt auto tranny, Complete stage zero. soon to have (white injectors, s70 front end, 16t, ARD tune)
#5
notaduc
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Posted 14 November 2011 - 03:01 AM
You wont find metric fasteners graded "5" that is for SAE only. The metric equivalent is 8.8.
But if you are replacing both screws and nuts there is no reason you couldnt use SAE is a similar size.
Stainless is ideal, but zinc plated holds up pretty well and costs a fraction of what stainless does.
And yes, when mild steel and aluminum are in contact it causes something called Galvanic corrosion particularly when an electrolyte (ie salt) is added.
But if you are replacing both screws and nuts there is no reason you couldnt use SAE is a similar size.
Stainless is ideal, but zinc plated holds up pretty well and costs a fraction of what stainless does.
And yes, when mild steel and aluminum are in contact it causes something called Galvanic corrosion particularly when an electrolyte (ie salt) is added.
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