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300k, Smoking Getting Worse


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#1 850maybe

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:34 AM

So, I'm @ 300k miles on the original motor and it's starting to blow blueish smoke with more regularity. Would it be wise to replace the valve stem seals or just find a ' lower ' mileage motor and do a swap? One shop said they had a motor and would install for $3700. Seems quite steep. Same shop also said that the higher mileage motors don't take well to valve jobs which is why they recommended the swap. Aside from the oil burning and consumption there is nothing major the car needs.

What say you?



#2 Oreo931

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:39 AM

View Post850maybe, on 18 November 2011 - 05:34 AM, said:

So, I'm @ 300k miles on the original motor and it's starting to blow blueish smoke with more regularity. Would it be wise to replace the valve stem seals or just find a ' lower ' mileage motor and do a swap? One shop said they had a motor and would install for $3700. Seems quite steep. Same shop also said that the higher mileage motors don't take well to valve jobs which is why they recommended the swap. Aside from the oil burning and consumption there is nothing major the car needs.

What say you?

$3700??? You could buy two 850's for that much money. The shop is ripping you off. Unless the motor they want to install is completely rebuilt with forged internals.

Also, it's not true that higher mileage motors do not "take well" to valve jobs. If everything else appears ok I would just replace the valve seals and call it a day.

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#3 boosted_brick

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 06:23 AM

i could see that for a brand new motor but i'm sure that's not the case.

if it's not your daily, i'd say a rebuild is in order. if you have to drive it every day, like i'd have to, maybe another shop could do it.

#4 Gilhuly

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 12:19 AM

Just do a compression test to judge how "old" your motor is. If the numbers are good, swap a rebuilt head on or have your's recoonditioned with new seals etc. If you are a really solid DIYer you can do an on head valve stem seal operation for modest cash outlay. If you are close to due for timing belt etc, this would be the time to do that in the bargain.
1997 854 R White 191k, Upsolute, MSD Coil, EST 3" down pipe, 2.5" cat back, IPD rear sway bar, QBM endlinks, OMP Strut Tower Bar

#5 850maybe

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 03:02 AM

View PostGilhuly, on 19 November 2011 - 12:19 AM, said:

Just do a compression test to judge how "old" your motor is. If the numbers are good, swap a rebuilt head on or have your's recoonditioned with new seals etc. If you are a really solid DIYer you can do an on head valve stem seal operation for modest cash outlay. If you are close to due for timing belt etc, this would be the time to do that in the bargain.

Will be doing a compression test tomorrow. Timing belt was done during the summer and I don't have the space, time or patience to tackle this on my own. Found a shop that has the skill and reputation to do the valve job if things check out. If not I have a line on a couple of motors and a place to do the install.

#6 TryingBe

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 02:52 PM

I just took apart a 01 engine. The valve stem seals are harden and all broken. The cam shafts will have to come off to change the seals, probably a 2-4 hours job by a pro. Do you have a compression gauge? Run a compression test and see what # you get first before you decide.

#7 Gilhuly

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 04:41 PM

It is not a 2-4 hr job by a longshot. 8 hrs if you are awesome, 10-12 if you are mortal. I'm assuming you are talking on-head.

If I'm having the work done professionally, I'm pulling the head and having it reconditioned. The on-head approach is good if you are doing the work yourself, have the time and knowledge and want to keep costs low.
1997 854 R White 191k, Upsolute, MSD Coil, EST 3" down pipe, 2.5" cat back, IPD rear sway bar, QBM endlinks, OMP Strut Tower Bar

#8 850maybe

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 07:49 PM

Will be doing a leakdown test as well. Might as well check the overall condition of the motor.

#9 Gilhuly

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 08:30 PM

I think that's a great idea. Whether to scrap/sell the car, do an engine swap, a head swap or a valve stem seal replacement is dependent on engine condition, rest of the car condition and owner capabilities
1997 854 R White 191k, Upsolute, MSD Coil, EST 3" down pipe, 2.5" cat back, IPD rear sway bar, QBM endlinks, OMP Strut Tower Bar

#10 renns

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 10:03 PM

If you don't do your own work, IMO it's worth fixing the car. Sell it off cheap, and if you like, buy another lower mileage 850 or S70/V70. The difference you'll spend on buying the new car will almost certainly be less than paying someone to swap engines, and probably about the same as the valve job.

View Postrenns, on 20 November 2011 - 10:02 PM, said:

If you don't do your own work, IMO it's worth...
Insert the word "NOT" between it's and worth! For some reason I can't find how to edit these posts...
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#11 cruzer555

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 02:53 AM

View Postrenns, on 20 November 2011 - 10:03 PM, said:

If you don't do your own work, IMO it's worth fixing the car. Sell it off cheap, and if you like, buy another lower mileage 850 or S70/V70. The difference you'll spend on buying the new car will almost certainly be less than paying someone to swap engines, and probably about the same as the valve job.

Insert the word "NOT" between it's and worth! For some reason I can't find how to edit these posts...

I agree. You can get a very nice 100-150k 850 for $1750-2000... No need for engine swaps!
My car: 1994 Volvo 855 NA - 137k miles - Auto :( - S80 T6 "Arrakis" wheels - 850R steering wheel




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