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Bilstein Touring Installation?

bilstein touring tc touring class volvo suspension 850 850 glt 1993

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#1 Dingleburg

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 01:53 AM

I need some help, i'm upgrading my 93' 850 GLT's shocks and struts with Bilstein Tc's, and i was wondering if i'll have to replace the shock/strut plates or purchase anything else with the actual shock and struts to install them? Thanks guys.

-Brandon



#2 scumcity14

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 02:17 AM

upper spring seats in the front probably need replaced (OE is best) the strut bearings (what you are calling plates) may need to be, but not always. The rear shock mounts also are a common item..and cheap.

Also, welcome to the forums.. I don't know your experience, but, DO NOT do the struts with out spring compressors..Volvo springs are long and under a good deal of pre-load..

Edited by scumcity14, 11 December 2011 - 02:19 AM.

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#3 Jardim

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 02:43 AM

Or you might end up without an arm, or a head.
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#4 InitialDriveGTR

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:35 PM

You could just rent spring compressors at your local auto shop aswell. but they are a must for stock springs

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#5 Keaton85

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 10:57 PM

Ive always wondered if you can release the compression of the spring with the weight of the vehicle. As in the fallowing:

As in unbolt from the top while the vehicle is still on the ground. (the main bolts, not the three nuts)
Then raise the vehicle slowly via the lift or jack.

I have a spring compression set-up BUT it would be so much simpler on the lift....

**Don't try this at home** :josh:

#6 Silver854m56

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 11:52 PM

So i put IPD springs and Bilstein Touring Shocks on my 94 850... to repeat scumcity14, Do NOT try to take the springs off without compressors.
i heard a horror story about this from my dealer once...
also new spring seats help.

and, I'd suggest springs too!!! my 850 is a Go kart and i love it/ haven't had to replace too many other suspension components even tho it's a stiffer ride.
...except the Right rear trailing arm bushing for the delta link suspension... long story short it cost me 300 to have my guy take the whole back end off to replace the bushing...

just make sure yours are in good shape... cuz you know... PITA.
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#7 burnout8488

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 06:18 AM

View Postplease delete, on 11 December 2011 - 10:57 PM, said:

Ive always wondered if you can release the compression of the spring with the weight of the vehicle. As in the fallowing:

As in unbolt from the top while the vehicle is still on the ground. (the main bolts, not the three nuts)
Then raise the vehicle slowly via the lift or jack.

I have a spring compression set-up BUT it would be so much simpler on the lift....

**Don't try this at home** :josh:

Maybe on the earlier cars this would work, but on my '99 there is a cross-nut underneath the main 22mm nut on top and it can only be accessed once the top of the strut is disassembled off the car.
'99 S70 AWD except not
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#8 Keaton85

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 06:38 AM

That cross nut is right on top, you can get to it after removing the 22mm nut.

#9 c70pete

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 05:48 AM

how long should a mechanic take to install 2 shocks and 2 struts? what will a reputable garage charge you?
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#10 Deimos

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 05:27 PM

View Postplease delete, on 11 December 2011 - 10:57 PM, said:

Ive always wondered if you can release the compression of the spring with the weight of the vehicle. As in the fallowing:

As in unbolt from the top while the vehicle is still on the ground. (the main bolts, not the three nuts)
Then raise the vehicle slowly via the lift or jack.

I have a spring compression set-up BUT it would be so much simpler on the lift....

**Don't try this at home** :josh:

Yes, it is. This is how I got my stock springs off when I installed my IPD ones. Chocked the back, lifted the front on stands, put a floor jack under the control arm while undoing the top stuff, including the magic X nuts (which I am no long using...), then let the floor jack down slowly. Bam, uncompressed.

Note: Do NOT try this if you're going to reinstall the OEM springs.

View Postburnout8488, on 12 December 2011 - 06:18 AM, said:

Maybe on the earlier cars this would work, but on my '99 there is a cross-nut underneath the main 22mm nut on top and it can only be accessed once the top of the strut is disassembled off the car.

It's there on all years and can be gotten to without removing the strut.
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#11 Keaton85

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 06:40 PM

I tried doing it with stock springs and it did not work, as the control arm would not allow for enough extension. Although this is on a P2 which can not extend as far down due to the control arm set-up. On the 94-00, that might not be an issue.

I installed Koni FSD dampeners and Eibach springs on my 01 last weekend and you don't need a spring compressed to reinstall the Eibach springs.

As for labor, if they are drop in dampeners and not inserts like the FSDs then its about 30min for each front and 15min for each rear. In bill time that is about 2 hours for the fronts and an hour for the rears. It's just due to the fact that it takes time to get the vehicle on the lift, deal with any small issues along the way and so forth. I would bet 250-300 labor maybe? I'm not 100% as i don't do the billing.

#12 c70pete

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 06:55 PM

View Postplease delete, on 22 January 2012 - 06:40 PM, said:



I installed Koni FSD dampeners and Eibach springs on my 01 last weekend and you don't need a spring compressed to reinstall the Eibach springs.


I have a set of FSD I'm installing with original stock springs on my 98 C70.... how long did it take for front and rear?

I'm assuming you have to take out and re-install the stock spring when you install Koni FSDs?
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#13 Keaton85

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 07:06 PM

umm, all depends on what you have for tools, lift, and so forth.

Fronts, you have to swap the springs and rear you do not. Also the fronts are inserts and not the complete assembly do you have to cut out the old dampener and insert the FSD.

If you have some experience, no lift and no power tools then I would say it's a two day job. BUT if you have experience, a lift, power tools and so forth then it's an afternoon job.

#14 c70pete

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 07:18 PM

View Postplease delete, on 22 January 2012 - 07:06 PM, said:

umm, all depends on what you have for tools, lift, and so forth.

Fronts, you have to swap the springs and rear you do not. Also the fronts are inserts and not the complete assembly do you have to cut out the old dampener and insert the FSD.

If you have some experience, no lift and no power tools then I would say it's a two day job. BUT if you have experience, a lift, power tools and so forth then it's an afternoon job.

why do you have to swap the springs? do you mean remove and re-install them?

I'm taking it to the dealer and I know the service manager very well...

how many hours do you think they should charge me for the whole job?
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#15 Keaton85

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 07:31 PM

Umm because the spring and strut is made into a complete unit, do you have to compress the spring. Once compressed you disassemble it, and install the new dampeners.

The rears on the FWD 94-00 are just direct swaps without messing with springs.

As for time, idono what they will charge you but they are not going to like swapping the inserts!

so you have to***

#16 Box83Brick98

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 08:02 PM

At autozone what you do is buy a spring compressor for like $50. And then you can get that $50 back whenever you're ready to return it. Great deal!
'98 T5M 163k and still kickin. [6000k HID lows and fogs, OBX exhaust, OBX strut brace, MBC @ 12psi, IPD Sport Springs, Billstein TCs]
'83 Chevy Caprice (Lead Sled). 67k original miles, 4 bolt 350 swap.

#17 c70pete

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 12:04 AM

View Postplease delete, on 22 January 2012 - 07:31 PM, said:

Umm because the spring and strut is made into a complete unit, do you have to compress the spring. Once compressed you disassemble it, and install the new dampeners.

The rears on the FWD 94-00 are just direct swaps without messing with springs.

As for time, idono what they will charge you but they are not going to like swapping the inserts!

so you have to***


so what is the verdict on the FSD and eibach springs you installed..... do you like them? do they soak up the bumps better than the stock setup?
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#18 Keaton85

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 12:17 AM

It rides great! But I have not tested around any hard corners since my ETM went on me. Also I'm running without front end links.

The only con I would say is bottoming out when turning into a corner and hitting a bump While in that turn. That's a given with the springs though.

They FSDs were not much more then stock ones so that's why I went that route.

Don't expect them to be perfect but they are definitely better then stock with a higher quality part. Lifetime warranty as well!

#19 c70pete

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 02:08 AM

how is the anti-dive and anti-squat with the FSDs?
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#20 Jardim

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 03:16 AM

View Postplease delete, on 22 January 2012 - 06:40 PM, said:

As for labor, if they are drop in dampeners and not inserts like the FSDs then its about 30min for each front and 15min for each rear. In bill time that is about 2 hours for the fronts and an hour for the rears. It's just due to the fact that it takes time to get the vehicle on the lift, deal with any small issues along the way and so forth. I would bet 250-300 labor maybe? I'm not 100% as i don't do the billing.

In my area, the avg. labor rate is 75/hr so 150 bucks. If you know someone who hooks you up, even cheaper.
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