36 replies to this topic

[stan_t]

Hello,

So, I picked up this '99 V70 XC a few days ago. Trying to convince myself to sell my sorted-out '07 Forester XT which handles very nice and is fast, but is currently being mostly used to carry the dog -- used Volvo can do that much cheaper and better.

Anyway, still feeling out the car and it's going fairly well. One thing is, I've become somewhat obsessive with suspension setups in past few years and have done like 30 - 40 suspension swaps on at least 5 of my cars and a dozen of others' cars at install days. We have very nice twisties in the area as well as some crappy roads, so suspension tweaking is good times.

This thing feels very boaty -- I'm imagining the shocks/struts aren't in best shape? Car will wobble like a water mattress when pressed on, I hope this isn't normal. So, I'm researching suspension options and reading about Nimovats, which I assume I have. My question is -- can I ditch the Nimovats and run FWD-fitment suspension? Reading "What are Nimovat shocks?" article on ipdusa.com makes it sound like if FWD shocks are installed on my car, the rear will sag 2 inches. This makes it sound like the shocks fit, but springs are shorter -- I can just get FWD rear springs/shocks if that's the case.

So, can I safely ditch the Nimovats, get something like Koni FSDs or Bilstein TCs in FWD-fitment and some FWD front and rear springs? I would not mind springs being 1-2 inches lower and stiffer, I'll cut the stockers to raise the sprint rates if I have to (never have done that in the past for the record), but I'd rather do it the right way.

Any help will be appreciated by a Volvo newbie. Here's what the car looks like:















Stan

[JRL]

No wood trim, that's an oddball.
How many miles?
If over 100K, rebuild the front suspension, add whatever struts you like I like Koni yellows (if price is not an object) and add a pair of IPD sway bars, you will really notice the difference!

[stan_t]

No, no wood trim. 141K on the car. Changed the oil with MaxLive 5w30 (whatever came out was black and nasty), used the Bosch filter. Lifter was ticking sometimes before the oil change, it stopped. The oil pan was oily, I cleaned it up and it's staying that way so far. Tranny shifts smooth forward and reverse (knock on wood), angle gear seems to not make noise. Need to change tranny and angle gear fluids (Volvo transmission fluid okay to use?)

Peeked at fron struts quickly, they look to be painted black and dusty. Probably original. You are right, I should just start with the fronts, they should be easy to do. I've ran Konis before, they are nice. I may look into those or the Bilstein Touring, replace spring perches/strut mounts and just go from there.

Stan

[Ihatespeedbumps]

Use regular Dex III for the trans. I buy volvo angle gear oil.

[JRL]

Bilsteins may push the front up even farther
Some people say it's OK to mix Bilstein fronts and Nivomats in the rear, Personally I wouldn't and would go with two front Konis.
They're more like OEM but with better steering feel and control, not as choppy as Bilsteins and... they're adjustable!
Sway bars will help you the most for handling after you get the front end straightened out

[stan_t]

Konis, heh. I've had yellows on my Subaru and Miata, and my friend has them on his 850, they are nice. I'll start looking into getting a set.

One thing I have going on is a slight front end vibration around 40mph while accelerating. Trying to figure out if it's a tire balancing issue, cv joint, engine mount (top one is cracked badly), or something else.

Thank you much,

Stan

[stan_t]

I took the car in to have the tires re-balanced and rotated and snapped a few pictures.

Struts, look OEM. I'm guessing they are original, what do you think?



Driver's side axle boot looks dry:



Passenger side is wet. It was hard to tell if boot was torn, or if this oil leaked onto the boot from something else. What else could be leaking in that area?





No apparent rusting problem, pretty clean California car:



Nimovats look OEM, I'm going to guess they are original as well.



There is still shaking around 40MPH while accelerating. If this is an axle problem, it should be fairly easy to fix. I am hoping it isn't something in the transmission or angle gear. But, if there is -- manual swap, here we come

Stan

[AdirondackVolvo]

I will completely agree with going for Koni's. Nice and adjustable.

As for The Nivo's in the rear, They are self adjusting Shock absorbers. And you can replace them with FWD shocks as long as you have the "correct" home made adaptors. I have a 2000 XC and I'm looking into some 600 lb/in Afco Springs, and a homemade adjuster like the ones made by KW or Kalphinke (sp.) along with Koni adjustables in the rear also.

I have never heard that the rear will sag without Nivo's but, I may be wrong about that.

As for A manual swap, I've been looking to do the same swap myself, (I have all the parts ready to go), but there is a common problem in doing this on the 99-00 cars.

These 99-00 V70's are equipped with Bosch Motronic ME7, ME7 does not take well to manual swaps. Not saying it can't be done, but unfortunatly, once you do it, Your ECU will not see a TCU and automatically think the vehicle is in Park, therefore, It fuel cuts at arond 4000 RPM....

[burnout8488]

You'll likely only be able to do a manual swap once Lucky of ARD Tuning gets ME7 tuning finished, probably around springtime if I had to guess.

Very envious of your undercarriage! My AWD parts are rusted to bits, it's horrible!

It kind of looks like there is a slight split in your CV boot, but I can't tell. Seems like the grease is seeping out a bit, but you'd be able to tell if you poke around in there and see if it opens up or not.

[AdirondackVolvo]

Oh yeah. Forgot to mention about that....

BTW, When my Axle shaft blew out, is started as a slight vibration, then only happened while coasting, then all the time, loudly!!!!

My 2000 has a little rot underneith, but not bad at all.

[stan_t]

In attempt to eliminate this shaking, I may just take the brute force approach and replace the passenger-side axle. I'm pretty sure it's seen better days.

For undercarriage -- agreed, we are pretty lucky here to not have snow, though there is snow 3 hours away in Tahoe, and if all works out this car will be seeing it. This particular car does seem to be pretty unmolested even for a California car. It seems like it was driven by a woman, fairly well maintained and mostly used to carry kids and dog. There aren't even many scratches/dings on it, considering it's a '99.

Stan

[stan_t]

MadracingAlley, on 13 December 2011 - 12:49 AM, said:

BTW, When my Axle shaft blew out, is started as a slight vibration, then only happened while coasting, then all the time, loudly!!!!

This one isn't really vibrating while coasting, it will vibrate when you get on the gas. It's most pronounced around 35-40MPH, then above 70MPH on the freeway. I suppose it could be happening when boost pressure is higher, I need to watch that closer.

Stan

[AdirondackVolvo]

Eh, Could be close. I replaced most of my front suspension componants and The best improvements I have made were the Engine mounts! Now keep in mind My wagon has around 241,000 on it....

another oddity I noticed. No passenger power seat... Interesting. I thought that was included, and the Gray Dash accents, I don't think thats factory.

I've never seen dual color paneling like that either.

[stan_t]

Nope, no power passenger seat, driver's only. Let me know if you want me to take more pictures, now you got me curious. I'll bug my dealer friend for a Carfax too, maybe that will help.

On the door panel I see the manufacturing date of 1997, is that normal for a Volvo '99 car? I though that was odd, too.

Stan

[JRL]

No touring package or whatever it was called in the late 90s.
Are you SURE it's a 99?
PM me your VIN and I'll tell you for sure what it is.

[Keaton85]

I had a 98 XC with no power pass. seat, no wood trim and funky color combos like that. It's a 99-00 though due to the side markers and the oil cooler (could be added but probably not)

[stan_t]

It looks like my driver's side front door isn't stock -- the VIN on it doesn't match one on the dash, under the hood and in the title. The manufacture date on the door is 02/97 which must be wrong and threw me off. I'm guessing some mechanism broke and dealer replaced the whole door because it doesn't look there is any body work anywhere. Could have been external damage to the door though, who knows.

I replaced the upper engine mount, a new OEM replacement came with the car. I didn't have a new bushing for the arm where it's held in bracket near the firewall though, that one is pretty bad too. Looks like that one needs to be pressed out. I went for a quick drive and it seems the shaking is almost gone, but I'll need to get a better feel for it tomorrow. Engine mounts definitely need to be done before anything else is replaced, though.

Here are a few pics of what I'm dealing with.











Stan

Did I mention this car is cool? 'cause it is. Thank you for all the help so far.

Stan

[JRL]

Breather box replacement time!!!

[Serge]

Welcome to the forums!

[stan_t]

Serge helped me find and buy this car, thank you.

Breather box.. yeah. For now I'm just applying my regular tune-up technique, which is ensure fluids and fuel is good, make sure car is safe, then drive the crap out of it. We'll see how blowby works out, even as is I'm smelling oil a lot less and the engine is working much better. Small steps. Buying dexron 3 for tranny today.

Stan