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Custom Fmic, What To Do With The Iac?


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#1 Tightmopedman9

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 06:27 PM

I've had a FMIC on my car for a few years now and I'm not satisfied with my IAC connection, to say the least.


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It hasn't ever blown off, but it looks ugly as hell. I'm redoing most of my piping and was wondering how to best route the IAC. An NA throttle body is going on at the same time so the diameters will be 3" (NA TB) and 2.75" (intercooler piping).
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#2 Gideon35T

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 07:50 PM

Take a section of intercooler piping to a shop that can weld aluminum and have them make you a iac valve diameter pipe off the bottom (bottom how it will be mounted) then run a length or rubber hose to the smaller iac valve pipe. Set it up so that its as tucked away as possible. OR - I know you can get a silicone intercooler coupler (in whatever color) that has a protrusion for the iac.
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#3 lookforjoe

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 11:17 PM

Basically a piece like this..

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For that version, I just braised a copper fitting & used the stock IAC hose cut out of the factory hose..

seen here...

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#4 brad850

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 01:06 AM

Hussein's is nicer/cleaner but this may be a bit easier for you and it works.

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You can buy it here. http://www.snabb.us/...7-850_p_30.html

It's annoying that it faces up but I found a way around it. I also did the N/A throttle body mod so make sure you buy the one in the link I sent you and not a turbo one. Only problem is the pipe side is 2.5" not 2.75" like you want.
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#5 cgally

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 10:10 PM

I used the factory hose and a grommet kit from pep boys. Use a holesaw to make the opening and install the grommet fittings in the new piping. Just cut the factory hoses on the end and use clamps. Easy and done.
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#6 fivex84

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 10:20 PM

Same as above, you can just reuse the stock one depending on routing.
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#7 bergmjs

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 01:45 AM

I used the Snabb coupler as shown above, but rotated it so the intercooler piping didn't have to do that funny bend over the airbox feed. I then extended the IAC hose on that coupler with some standard hose and a 1" delrin coupler.
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#8 InitialDriveGTR

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 04:12 PM

You could run no IAC, and adjust the idle set screw to let in some more air:
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#9 gilber33

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 04:45 PM

Wait, that doesn't mess up your idle? Or your RPMs when you shift or anything like that?

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#10 InitialDriveGTR

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:15 PM

View Postgilber33, on 03 January 2012 - 04:45 PM, said:

Wait, that doesn't mess up your idle? Or your RPMs when you shift or anything like that?

Not at all. I adjusted the set screw on the throttle body to let in more air. I just kept turning it till it idled where it should. Makes it a little harder to warm up in the cold, but only for a minute or so

My pride and Joy -------------------------------------Volvo Rat------------------------------------ 98' 874 T5

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No power Steering, Bride Bucket Seats, M56H swapped, FMIC, OBX exhaust,

All digital gauges, Koni Yellows, Ipd Sport springs, Rebuilt head, N/A Cams


#11 gilber33

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:27 PM

So idle and everything is still completely OK? Not having the IAC doesn't effect anything else does it? MPG (not sure how it would but just curious)? That's interesting.

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#12 InitialDriveGTR

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:36 PM

View Postgilber33, on 03 January 2012 - 05:27 PM, said:

So idle and everything is still completely OK? Not having the IAC doesn't effect anything else does it? MPG (not sure how it would but just curious)? That's interesting.

Everything works fine, MPG has nothing to do with it. but I don't have a AC compressor or power steering, so the computer doesn't need to use the IAC to compensate for anything on the accessory system, just the alternator which is pretty constant

Edited by InitialDriveGTR, 03 January 2012 - 05:37 PM.

My pride and Joy -------------------------------------Volvo Rat------------------------------------ 98' 874 T5

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No power Steering, Bride Bucket Seats, M56H swapped, FMIC, OBX exhaust,

All digital gauges, Koni Yellows, Ipd Sport springs, Rebuilt head, N/A Cams


#13 Gideon35T

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 06:59 PM

I ran just the throttle body for idle air on my rally car. It works fine but keep in mind there is no adjustment to the opening of the throttle body when used for idle. So you open it "X" amount to set the idle. However, temperature and altitude affect air density yet the TB valve opening stays the same. So if you set it now when it's cold you'd see your idle slowly drop as air becomes thinner as the temps go back up. But it's absolutely doable. I have ran that setup on more then a few track toys.
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
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#14 lookforjoe

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:43 PM

The IAC valve is also used to allow more bypass air on heavy decel - otherwise you can create a extreme negative pressure in the manifold/engine, and/or get close to engine stall, depending on how you are driving.

Setting a higher base throttle angle to compensate will cause greater fuel consumption, even if it's a small amount.

Unless you also want to live with a permanent CEL (or pull the bulb) this really isn't a great idea for a street driven car.
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#15 850T5M

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 03:18 AM

This is happening to me I believe...my fmic iac pipework sucks, so the hose to the iac sometimes gets pinched, then on deck the car chokes and has stalled once or twice. I was trying to figure out if it was the hose or not lol
Would that be a symptom of a missing iac valve?

Decel* not deck lol

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#16 Jardim

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 10:27 AM

View PostInitialDriveGTR, on 03 January 2012 - 05:15 PM, said:

Not at all. I adjusted the set screw on the throttle body to let in more air. I just kept turning it till it idled where it should. Makes it a little harder to warm up in the cold, but only for a minute or so

Is this what you used restrictors for? (I remember when i drove laps in your car that night you had no CEL)
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