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Diy Rip Kit


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#1 Gideon35T

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 01:05 AM

Going to setup a rip kit with some cxracing pipes and a turboxs bov. I have the bov and most of the piping so all I really need is the couplers.
My question is: What are the ODs for the inlet and outlet of the oem intercooler as well as the throttle body?
I did a quick search but came up empty handed :-/
I realize a RIP kit wont be much power wise but its a simply way to ditch the plastic pipes, rubber couplers, and add a bov.
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
1994 855 "Zombie Wagon": Roof rack, Push bar, Steelies, shovel for zombie killing ...



#2 Gideon35T

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 01:12 AM

Since there's 2 cars in my sig I figures I'd specify its for the 850. Even though my sig says I have a mishimoto fmic for the S60, haha.
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
1994 855 "Zombie Wagon": Roof rack, Push bar, Steelies, shovel for zombie killing ...

#3 Che'_Moderator

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 02:04 AM

2.25.

Plastic is actually about the best material.

#4 Gideon35T

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 02:26 AM

Would have to get an adapter pipe and two connectors so I can run the bov anyways. Might as well use up all the spare intercooler piping I have and make a rip kit.
Besides, while the rip kit wont really do much for power it should help throttle response which is a bit underwhelming as it stand right now.
Thanks for the quick reply btw. I take it all three ODs I asked for are the same 2.25"? That will make life easy.
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
1994 855 "Zombie Wagon": Roof rack, Push bar, Steelies, shovel for zombie killing ...

#5 Che'_Moderator

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 02:33 AM

View PostGideon35T, on 30 December 2011 - 02:26 AM, said:

Would have to get an adapter pipe and two connectors so I can run the bov anyways. Might as well use up all the spare intercooler piping I have and make a rip kit.
Besides, while the rip kit wont really do much for power it should help throttle response which is a bit underwhelming as it stand right now.
Thanks for the quick reply btw. I take it all three ODs I asked for are the same 2.25"? That will make life easy.

From memory pretty sure. Do a before and after dyno and let us know how many HP you lose as well as what material and what routing.

#6 cgally

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 04:49 AM

It seems unecessary and you will be opening yourself to more issues with couplers possibly loosening. Yes, you can do it. In theory better throttle response. Will you honestly notice it?? But, I cannot lie. It does look way cooler with an OTE pipe. (until you change plugs) Not a biggie, just another step or three.
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#7 lookforjoe

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 05:02 AM

Top IC outlet is larger than bottom inlet. I have a couple of stock IC's in the basement, I'll measure one tomorrow if no-one replies beforehand.
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#8 Gideon35T

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 11:27 AM

View PostChe, on 30 December 2011 - 02:33 AM, said:

From memory pretty sure. Do a before and after dyno and let us know how many HP you lose as well as what material and what routing.
I could see there being a negligible gain but I'd be surprised if it actually lost power.

View Postcgally, on 30 December 2011 - 04:49 AM, said:

It seems unecessary and you will be opening yourself to more issues with couplers possibly loosening. Yes, you can do it. In theory better throttle response. Will you honestly notice it?? But, I cannot lie. It does look way cooler with an OTE pipe. (until you change plugs) Not a biggie, just another step or three.
The oem rubber hoses are known to fail at higher boost levels. And mine are an unknown age. I'd rather run silicone couplers and I have enough spare intercooler piping laying around to do the whole rip kit. If I'm going to do new piping then I might as well run it as a rip since it's less piping and easier to route.

View Postlookforjoe, on 30 December 2011 - 05:02 AM, said:

Top intercooler outlet is larger than bottom inlet. I have a couple of stock intercooler's in the basement, I'll measure one tomorrow if no-one replies beforehand.
Appreciate it. Nothing like the aggrivation of trying to fit a silicone coupler thats just a little too small, haha.
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
1994 855 "Zombie Wagon": Roof rack, Push bar, Steelies, shovel for zombie killing ...

#9 Gideon35T

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 02:02 PM

Best DIY RIP kit info I've found = http://www.volvot5.c...ead.php?t=31579
I wont be using 3" piping and the article doesnt list the oem TB OD. Personally I'd also prefer to use angled pipes instead of so many couplers but it looks like a good clean setup. Only missing the IAC pipe in his pics. I'm guessing this is our VS friend with the "ultra gutted" 854 from the looks of it.
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
1994 855 "Zombie Wagon": Roof rack, Push bar, Steelies, shovel for zombie killing ...

#10 pedro fandango

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 04:22 PM

View PostGideon35T, on 30 December 2011 - 02:02 PM, said:

Best DIY RIP kit info I've found = http://www.volvot5.c...ead.php?t=31579
I wont be using 3" piping and the article doesnt list the oem TB OD. Personally I'd also prefer to use angled pipes instead of so many couplers but it looks like a good clean setup. Only missing the IAC pipe in his pics. I'm guessing this is our VS friend with the "ultra gutted" 854 from the looks of it.
yes i'm P Fandango on there (my home forum). The 3" pipes & 960 throttle body tranformed the car & reduced the 19t's turbo lag no end, spools possibly quicker than the 15g now. I've binned the idle control valve

#11 Gideon35T

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 08:13 PM

Do you just use the throttle body to control idle or ... ? Nice write up btw
I'll likely be sticking with the 15g as it's for the girlfriend. No need to go all out.
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
1994 855 "Zombie Wagon": Roof rack, Push bar, Steelies, shovel for zombie killing ...

#12 pedro fandango

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 08:20 PM

View PostGideon35T, on 30 December 2011 - 08:13 PM, said:

Do you just use the throttle body to control idle or ... ? Nice write up btw
I'll likely be sticking with the 15g as it's for the girlfriend. No need to go all out.
no i've left the throttle body as is, i think its probably sucking in the air in needs & possibly forcing it open itself. I have got some boost leaks at the minute so properly getting air from them as well. Thanks for the comments sir

#13 Platinum 850

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 10:04 PM

Stock 850
Top IC port: 2.5"
Throttle body: 2.5"
Bottom IC port: 2.25"
Posted Image1996 Volvo 850 Platinum Edition
"R" Exhaust Manifold, Garrett Stage III 54 Trim T3/T4 Hybrid Turbo, 550cc @ 3bar Injectors, Racelab Intake Manifold, 3" Full SS Exhaust, TurboTuner, CAI, BOV, Custom FMIC Setup, Crane Ignition, 5spd Swap, Walbro Fuel Pump, KONI FSD & Eibach Springs, IPD Sway Bar Kit, IPD BBK, 328WHP & 376WTQ New Results comming soon...

#14 lookforjoe

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 10:43 PM

^ Thanks - I went & measured them earlier, then forgot to post the info here. In reality, the OD of the ports is slightly under the listed dimensions once you go over the outer raised ridge, but if you're using thick wall silicone couplers it would be difficult to stretch a 2" on the outlet & a 2.25" on the inlet.
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1998 V70 XR M66 PTE6262 BB Built '04 2.3l Block '03 Ported Head EnemY21Cams TurboTuner 710cc Inj, 3" DP back Dual Magnaflow 14834's May 2011 355WHP(@6400rpm) 347WTq(@4400rpm)@22psi Now with LGSpeed Header & Custom Intake Manifold! BIG 31x12x3"FMIC

#15 Gideon35T

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 12:27 AM

Well I have 2.5" piping and it would be much easier to get straight couplers for as much as possible. I'd only therefor need a reducer for the turbo and the bottom intercooler pipe.
Thanks for finding me the exact dimensions guys. I doubt I'm going to survive this 60% layoff so an fmic is going to be off the table, haha. The girlfriend will just be happy to make the engine bay a bit cleaner looking. At least I'll have a lot of time for wrenching ... :lol:
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
1994 855 "Zombie Wagon": Roof rack, Push bar, Steelies, shovel for zombie killing ...

#16 Gideon35T

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 01:50 AM

$125 for the couplers using the above measurements, 2.5" piping, and pedro's setup as per the link. (couplers from cxracing)
Might as well spend the same on a cheap fmic kit then add the two reducers I'd need. :-/
I guess I'll just have to wait and see what happens with my job and if $$$ is fine I can just get an fmic kit.

Maybe this should be a sticky to dissuade others from traveling this path. Without the ability to weld aluminum (and therefor reduce the number of couplers needed) there's simply no way it would be of value -vs- a cheap fmic setup.
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
1994 855 "Zombie Wagon": Roof rack, Push bar, Steelies, shovel for zombie killing ...

#17 lookforjoe

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 03:37 AM

View PostGideon35T, on 31 December 2011 - 01:50 AM, said:

Maybe this should be a sticky to dissuade others from traveling this path. Without the ability to weld aluminum (and therefor reduce the number of couplers needed) there's simply no way it would be of value -vs- a cheap fmic setup.

:lol: We already know that, just took you awhile to realize it...
Posted Image
1998 V70 XR M66 PTE6262 BB Built '04 2.3l Block '03 Ported Head EnemY21Cams TurboTuner 710cc Inj, 3" DP back Dual Magnaflow 14834's May 2011 355WHP(@6400rpm) 347WTq(@4400rpm)@22psi Now with LGSpeed Header & Custom Intake Manifold! BIG 31x12x3"FMIC

#18 Gideon35T

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 05:14 AM

View Postlookforjoe, on 31 December 2011 - 03:37 AM, said:


:lol: We already know that, just took you awhile to realize it...
Hahahaha, yeah. I've read alot of good feedback but now that I've done the price breakdown I have my own reason to say no, lol. If I had enough spare couplers of the right kinds laying around then sure. But not if I have to spend $125 on them. I guess I'll just put the intercooler revamping on hold till I'm more certain about my future finances.
So, for everyone who's reading this thread - If you're thinking RIP kit ... "Just Say No" - Not worth the $$$ and if anyone's curious I'll post the cost breakdown of the required couplers to show how I got to $125. That's with cxracing prices which aren't even expensive vs better companies like stylin motors.
2003 S60 2.4T: FMIC, BOV, 16T, Straightpipe, OZ Wheels, Springs, etc.
1994 855 "Zombie Wagon": Roof rack, Push bar, Steelies, shovel for zombie killing ...

#19 scumcity14

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 05:21 AM

Add this thread to the manual window conversion and electric supercharger thread and make it one big "You may think these are great ideas, but everyone is dissuading you for a reason" thread..
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#20 rbodor3

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 05:18 AM

you could go stainless and weld that in lieu of aluminum. Or, just pay to have the welds done. It's not a good idea to use any coupling elbow on a pressure pipe, unless you brace it. For pretty much the same $$ as the ridiculous number of couplers, you could pay a guy to have it welded proper. And then you get rid of the unsightly couplers, better clearance, better flow, less clamps, etcetcetc. Just cut/mark/measure yourself if on a budget. blah.....

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