47 replies to this topic

[Aequitas_Veritas]

Let me first point out that I am not one to let other people work on my car EVER. In fact, I can count on one hand the number of things I have had someone else’s help on for things that have to do with my car. I have let someone else install and do tire related stuff, I have let someone else do an alignment, I let someone else lay the black suede on my headliner (after I screwed it up once), and I let someone else polish the parts on my engine bay (cause screw that). Its not that I don’t trust other people, I just know I would do a better job because I care more about the outcome then they do. And nothing on my car is half assed. I like to do mods only once and not have to redo them later when they break.

So that being said, I got a Viper 5901 alarm system for my car last year as a Christmas present from my parents.. A year has gone by and I have not been able to find a shop that I would trust to do a proper job that I would be happy with. So I knew I had to do it myself. Since I have a manual swap, and have watched Pras run his car up a curb and almost into a side of a building showing off his remote start to me and left the car in gear, I decided I really didn’t need a remote start here in southern California. I realize now since im not hooking up the remote start I could have gotten a Viper 3303 which is the same alarm but without remote start and can be found for about $180-$200.

So after downloading every wiring guide I could find, including the DEI one, the Volvo one, 2 more from the 12volt.com, and the Hayes manual. I set out to find the wires that I have to hook up. And because no one of these guides makes it easy for you to figure out what wires to tap, and because I had to trace these wires out on every diagram, I am now going to make an easy write up for how to install a basic alarm better than any alarm shop could even do it by tapping only one wire and soldering it instead of crimp connectors. Done right this will last the lifetime of the vehicle. However you should always test the wire colors I provided with a meter first before tapping them to ensure they are correct. I assume no responsibility for any damage caused due to these instructions. I am however, 100% sure of their accuracy for 1996 850s.

However for my security I am not going to show almost any pictures because I don’t want people to know where I installed it in my car. But I am going to tell you exactly what wires to tap to get parking light flash, lock/unlock, door sensor, trunk sensor, hood sensor, tilt sensor, and glass break sensor.


You will need

• quality solder 60% tin/ 40% lead .8mm diameter with a rosin core. NO that stuff you has left over from sweating the water pipes will not do in this application LOL.
  
• High quality solder iron
  
• 3m Super 33+ electrical tape 66ft roll about $5-6 each
  
• 4", 8" black zip ties
  
• Digital Multimeter
  
• wire loom in 1/4" and 3/4" sizes
  
• wire fishing tool, generic wire hanger will do most of the time or I used solid core copper wires (very stiff)

Here are the 9 wires I tapped and their exact location on a 1996 850R and their polarity in parentheses. All my wires were tapped at the 3 main engine harnessed you see from underneath. There is a Yellow, White and a Red one, each having several different colored plugs in them, I reference all my colors from here.

Wire Location

12+volt constant Input (+) Tap any red wire with 12+volts constant (Most red wires)

Ground (-) Tap any black wire

Siren Output (+) Goes to the siren under your hood/ wiper cowl. I put mine under my wiper cowl, just remember to face it slightly down so water doesn’t collect in it.

Trunk Pin trigger Input (-) Red block, Red connector, pin 11, blue-brown wire

Instant trigger Input (-) Some alarms can have multiple triggers from other things such as backup batteries that instantly trigger the alarm, mine shared this trigger with the trunk pin

Door Trigger Input (-) Red block, Blue plug, Pin 6, Yellow-White wire

Parking Light Output (+) Yellow block, Blue plug, Pin 8, White wire

Unlock Output (-) White block, Blue plug, Pin 8, Blue-Brown wire (This wire must be double pulsed to unlock the car, I had to set that in my alarm settings)

Lock Output (-) White block, Blue plug, Pin 10, Yellow-Grey wire

Hood Pin Goes to a hood pin you install under the hood, here Is the custom mount I did for mine Here are some pics of the bracket I made:






You will also have to run wires up to you dome light for the controller antenna where you can hide the module in there. I attached it to my ceiling above my passenger side of the dome light.






Of course all my connections are soldered and heat shrunk on. I pulled each pin out one by one and used a razor to cut away the wire insulation and wrapped the alarm wire around the Volvo wire and soldered it, then slipped a piece of head shrink on the end, lighter and reinstall the pin into the plug. Here are some pics of after I was done:












I also bought a glass break sensor module and 2 window modules that I will be getting next week so that I can add them onto this write up for those that want to roll their windows up as they get out of their cars. They also add 1 touch to every window.

Hopefully this guide will help those people out on the fence about doing it themselves.

[Ghost Shadow]

Disclaimer: I have a background in mobile 12 volt. I am chiming in on this thread because i know a little something about something.

This guide is NOT the way i would do it, I am a pro. Your system is only as good as its installation and Quality is long remembered after price is forgotten. Remember that!

I am replying not to have a pissing match or say his way is wrong and i am right. Just letting you know there is more than meets the eye and some misinformation that can lead to bad results, even though on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest this volvo is a 1.

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 08:01 AM, said:

Let me first point out that I am not one to let other people work on my car EVER. In fact, I can count on one hand the number of things I have had someone else’s help on for things that have to do with my car. I have let someone else install and do tire related stuff, I have let someone else do an alignment, I let someone else lay the black suede on my headliner (after I screwed it up once), and I let someone else polish the parts on my engine bay (cause screw that). Its not that I don’t trust other people, I just know I would do a better job because I care more about the outcome then they do. And nothing on my car is half assed. I like to do mods only once and not have to redo them later when they break.

So that being said, I got a Viper 5901 alarm system for my car last year as a Christmas present from my parents.. A year has gone by and I have not been able to find a shop that I would trust to do a proper job that I would be happy with. So I knew I had to do it myself. Since I have a manual swap, and have watched Pras run his car up a curb and almost into a side of a building showing off his remote start to me and left the car in gear, I decided I really didn’t need a remote start here in southern California. I realize now since im not hooking up the remote start I could have gotten a Viper 3303 which is the same alarm but without remote start and can be found for about $180-$200.

First fail: Viper
Second fail: No pictures
Third Fail: "I just know I would do a better job because I care more about the outcome then they do." and this one is what prompted my reply, "I am now going to make an easy write up for how to install a basic alarm better than any alarm shop could even do"
Fourth Fail: Your how to needs to be a how to, not a how not to or why you should.

Let me tell you why.

1: Viper bought online, not installed by a authorized dealer = no warranty (supposedly)
2:

• System installed right will get the alarm going and they will have a tough time getting to the brain.
  
• there is a big ass knee bolster that goes accross the bottom, all you need to do is tuck the brain behind the gauge cluster
  
• fuck their stupid pager, GPS/tracking/smart phone unit Dronemobile.com is much better than dei;s smart start. Why? lets start with the $50 a year service LOL
  
• everyone here knows what a 850/ x70 looks like inside under the dash
  
• a HOW TO HAS PICTURES and is a full guide
  
• ALARM is so easy like changing a tire

3: Just because you cant find one or maybe refuse to pay a great shop their labor rates to do one does not mean you can do it better, really dont know what the true reason is. Soldering takes skill, un pinning a wire, soldering and shrink wrapping something is great and all. Its just time consuming. Your car took how many hours into days to do? This should take a pro 2hours MAXIMUM.


I do remote starts, alarms and keyless entry all day everyday. I did this month at least 50 units in various cars.
This week Dec 26 to Dec 29 2011
Monday

• 2012 Honda Pilot: remote start/keyless/transponder bypass 12miles 40 minutes
  
• 2011 Honda Crv: remote start/keyless/transponder bypass 22 miles 1hr 5 minutes
  
• 2012 Honda Pilot: starter/keyless trandponder 45 minutes
  
• 2012 Honda Accord starter/keyless/bypass 30 minutes

Tuesday

• 2008 Honda Crv : remote start/keyless/transponder bypass 55 minutes
  
• 2012 Honda CRV remote start/keyless/transponder 2hrs 15 minutes first one i have seen, first one done in the country
  
• 2012 Honda Civic remote start/keyless/transponder 1 hr 10 minutes

Wednesday

• 2006 Hyundai Sonota keyless/remote start 1hr 10 minutes
  
• 2012 Nissan Rouge Intelligent key starter/keyless/trnasponder 19miles 2hrs 45 minutes
  
• 2011 Ford Raptor SVT remote starter/gps drone module/keyless and aux 1 triggers the airhorns 3 hours

Thursday

• 2012 Honda Odessey starter/keyless/transponder 43miles 40 minutes
  
• 2005 GMC Yukon remote start/keyless/databus module 1hr 15 minute 115k
  
• 2004 Dodge Durango remote start/keyless/alarm/transponder bypass 2hrs 30 minutes 67k

Friday

scheduled, one 12 pathfinder, and one 05 kia, slow day...has not started yet.

You do not need to take pins out to shrink wrap. To do a quality install you dont need to shrink wrap.

You do need

• quality solder 60% tin/ 40% lead .8mm diameter with a rosin core. NO that stuff you has left over from sweating the water pipes will not do in this application LOL.
  
• High quality solder iron, shop has craftsman $30 300w irons, mobile i use master butane filtered gas and a Master UT-100SI with a UT-200SI as a backup
  
• 3m Super 33+ electrical tape 66ft roll about $5-6 each
  
• 4", 8" and 14" 40 lb test wire tires
  
• Fluke 789 Digital Multimeter
  
• wire loom in various sizes
  
• wire fishing tool, generic wire hanger will do most of the time

You also need to know how to solder, cold solder joints are just as bad as crimp connectors.

If you consulted a quality shop, at least i would have, given you your options out there. I would have asked what you wanted to do? Why? What level of protection? Pros and cons of each.

With your car, i would have installed at least a Compustar One Way Alarm, Remote Start, Keyless entry system, then considered adding in the drone gps device.

Compustar will safely do a manual, compustar will have a built in turbo timer, compustar had ez-go (RFID remotes),compustar has touch RPS, compustar has drone mobile capabilities, compustar is easily upgradeable to two way, compustar has a plug to add on back up battery, just to name a few features.


I live, eat, drink 12 volt. if you dont know how to change a negative trigger to a positive trigger off the top of your head, you dont need to be writing how to's and insulting everyone in the 12 volt industry by saying you can do it better than they can ever do it, with inferior products too.

[Ghost Shadow]

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 08:01 AM, said:

Wire Location

12+volt constant Input (+) Tap any red wire with 12+volts constant (Most red wires) Bad idea, do not just use any line, test to see if this line is constant power first usually use the line from the ignition harness


Ground (-) Tap any black wire Use a ring terminal and a self tapping screw and make your own new ground, PRO's would find a good ground first.

Siren Output (+) Goes to the siren under your hood/ wiper cowl. I put mine under my wiper cowl, just remember to face it slightly down so water doesn’t collect in it.
Good spot is near the battery tray, this way if someone tried to cut the battery, they go deaf

Trunk Pin trigger Input (-) Red block, Red connector, pin 11, blue-brown wire

Instant trigger Input (-) Some alarms can have multiple triggers from other things such as backup batteries that instantly trigger the alarm, mine shared this trigger with the trunk pin

Door Trigger Input (-) Red block, Blue plug, Pin 6, Yellow-White wire

Parking Light Output (+) Yellow block, Blue plug, Pin 8, White wire How do you get the headlights to stop flashing when the alarm goes off, its killing my HIDz

Unlock Output (-) White block, Blue plug, Pin 8, Blue-Brown wire (This wire must be double pulsed to unlock the car, I had to set that in my alarm settings)

Lock Output (-) White block, Blue plug, Pin 10, Yellow-Grey wire

Hood Pin Goes to a hood pin you install under the hood, here Is the custom mount I did for mine You can use the oem hood pin under the hood black /yellow trace

[Picture coming in the next few days]

You will also have to run wires up to you dome light for the controller antenna where you can hide the module in there. I attached it to my ceiling above my passenger side of the dome light.Doing this will decrease range, dei's stupid antenna design now had the programming plug and led light on the antenna

[Picture coming in the next few days]

Of course all my connections are soldered and heat shrunk on. I pulled each pin out one by one and used a razor to cut away the wire insulation and wrapped the alarm wire around the Volvo wire and soldered it, then slipped a piece of head shrink on the end, lighter and reinstall the pin into the plug.

[Picture coming in the next few days]

I also bought a glass break sensor module and 2 window modules that I will be getting next week so that I can add them onto this write up for those that want to roll their windows up as they get out of their cars. They also add 1 touch to every window.
All components going in for a security system should be done at the same time to minimize the spaghetti(wires running everywhere)

Hopefully this guide will help those people out on the fence about doing it themselves.

I made notes to your guide because its not really a guide, it is what you think it should be done.

[Aequitas_Veritas]

First let me say Thank you Ghost Shadow. I am sure you are trying to help even if it came off a little harsh

Ghost Shadow, on 30 December 2011 - 01:32 PM, said:

This guide is NOT the way i would do it, I am a pro. Your system is only as good as its installation and Quality is long remembered after price is forgotten. Remember that!

I am replying not to have a pissing match or say his way is wrong and i am right. Just letting you know there is more than meets the eye and some misinformation that can lead to bad results, even though on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest this volvo is a 1.

Ok, so this volvo is on the easier side, I am not doing a writeup on how to install an alarm in any other vehicle, someone could add that to my title. But that is also why I wanted to do it myself because I knew it was on the easier side.

First fail: Viper It was what I was bought, but I did look at many others and didnt like the way they looked, and I especially don't like the way the compustar remotes look at ALL, I think the Viper did everything I needed it to do, but you could use my guide for any alarm.
Second fail: No pictures As stated im adding these in a few days
Third Fail: "I just know I would do a better job because I care more about the outcome then they do." and this one is what prompted my reply, "I am now going to make an easy write up for how to install a basic alarm better than any alarm shop could even do" Sorry if that comment offended you, but I believe my alarm install, even though it took much longer then a pro would take, is better then any you would do yourself at your shop.
Fourth Fail: Your how to needs to be a how to, not a how not to or why you should. I am still working on this how to and it will be rewritten several times as I do, thanks for the advice.

Let me tell you why.

1: Viper bought online, not installed by a authorized dealer = no warranty (supposedly) True, but it was already bought online from some random person, my warranty was invalid prior to this
2:

• System installed right will get the alarm going and they will have a tough time getting to the brain. True?
  
• there is a big ass knee bolster that goes accross the bottom, all you need to do is tuck the brain behind the gauge cluster I left it up to the installer to find the best place to put it. That is a good place yes.
  
• fuck their stupid pager, GPS/tracking/smart phone unit Dronemobile.com is much better than dei;s smart start. Why? lets start with the $50 a year service LOL Ok, thier shitty looking remotes have a little better functions on them, but I already have a GPS locator on my carpc without paying a $50 a year service or having to use a shitty looking remote.
  
• everyone here knows what a 850/ x70 looks like inside under the dash I guarantee you not everyone on VS does
  
• a HOW TO HAS PICTURES and is a full guide As stated they are coming
  
• ALARM is so easy like changing a tire

3: Just because you cant find one or maybe refuse to pay a great shop their labor rates to do one does not mean you can do it better, really dont know what the true reason is. Soldering takes skill, un pinning a wire, soldering and shrink wrapping something is great and all. Its just time consuming. Your car took how many hours into days to do? This should take a pro 2hours MAXIMUM. I am aware its time consuming, but done properly I think its FAR superior then T-taps, butt connectors, or any other means you might use because you are on a time deadline. That is exactly why I did this myself, cause I could spend days doing it and not have to worry about cutting corners for the sake of a fast install.


I do remote starts, alarms and keyless entry all day everyday. I did this month at least 50 units in various cars. Congrats. I just had to do one car, and I did.

You do not need to take pins out to shrink wrap. To do a quality install you dont need to shrink wrap. I disagree, when you tap the pins at the plug and tap the wires right at the end then it looks like part of the volvo harness, and therefore is much harder to track down when trying to figure out what wires to cut. I know its not NEEDED, but it looks factory.

You do need

• quality solder 60% tin/ 40% lead .8mm diameter with a rosin core. NO that stuff you has left over from sweating the water pipes will not do in this application LOL.
  
• High quality solder iron, shop has craftsman $30 300w irons, mobile i use master butane filtered gas and a Master UT-100SI with a UT-200SI as a backup
  
• 3m Super 33+ electrical tape 66ft roll about $5-6 each
  
• 4", 8" and 14" 40 lb test wire tires
  
• Fluke 789 Digital Multimeter
  
• wire loom in various sizes
  
• wire fishing tool, generic wire hanger will do most of the time

All True, and all things I used. Although a $50 meter will work just as well as the $900 Fluke one that Ghost uses. I will add this to my original write up.

You also need to know how to solder, cold solder joints are just as bad as crimp connectors. Also True, but I have soldered at least a few hundred wires in my day and I think I know how to do a quality solder job.

If you consulted a quality shop, at least i would have, given you your options out there. I would have asked what you wanted to do? Why? What level of protection? Pros and cons of each.

With your car, i would have installed at least a Compustar One Way Alarm, Remote Start, Keyless entry system, then considered adding in the drone gps device. This would not have been helpful to me as I already had GPS tracking and didn't want remote start and wanted a two way remote. Then I would have asked for a system with a more attractive remote, like a viper unit.

Compustar will safely do a manual, compustar will have a built in turbo timer, compustar had ez-go (RFID remotes),compustar has touch RPS, compustar has drone mobile capabilities, compustar is easily upgradeable to two way, compustar has a plug to add on back up battery, just to name a few features. Good for them, how much do they pay you to suck that hard on their nuts? None of these features would have been helpful for me except the turbo timer, but I already had one installed before and literally had 5-10 people every year that would ask me why I left my car on when going into the store and doesn't that waste gas, and blah blah blah and made me explain myself (Cali is full of hippies) So I took it out.


I live, eat, drink 12 volt. if you dont know how to change a negative trigger to a positive trigger off the top of your head, you dont need to be writing how to's and insulting everyone in the 12 volt industry by saying you can do it better than they can ever do it, with inferior products too. Sorry I insulted you, but I still stand by the fact I did a better job then you would have done to my car if I brought it in there.

Wire Location

12+volt constant Input (+) Tap any red wire with 12+volts constant (Most red wires) Bad idea, do not just use any line, test to see if this line is constant power first usually use the line from the ignition harness I already suggested they test every connection with a multimeter, so thank you for reaffirming this, I used a spare plug I found underneath and repinned a spare harness plug I had laying around so it looks just like it could have been factory.


Ground (-)Tap any black wireUse a ring terminal and a self tapping screw and make your own new ground, PRO's would find a good ground first. I found an unused ground in a spare plug mentioned above, Ive never seen a factory wire harnesses using ring connectors? Wonder why?

Siren Output (+) Goes to the siren under your hood/ wiper cowl. I put mine under my wiper cowl, just remember to face it slightly down so water doesn’t collect in it.
Good spot is near the battery tray, this way if someone tried to cut the battery, they go deaf Or they just move inside the vehicle where its quieter. I dont see how the 4 ft difference would matter, but personal opinion

Trunk Pin trigger Input (-) Red block, Red connector, pin 11, blue-brown wire

Instant trigger Input (-) Some alarms can have multiple triggers from other things such as backup batteries that instantly trigger the alarm, mine shared this trigger with the trunk pin

Door Trigger Input (-) Red block, Blue plug, Pin 6, Yellow-White wire

Parking Light Output (+) Yellow block, Blue plug, Pin 8, White wire How do you get the headlights to stop flashing when the alarm goes off, its killing my HIDz This is parking lights only, you headlights wont flash, but thanks for asking

Unlock Output (-) White block, Blue plug, Pin 8, Blue-Brown wire (This wire must be double pulsed to unlock the car, I had to set that in my alarm settings)

Lock Output (-) White block, Blue plug, Pin 10, Yellow-Grey wire

Hood Pin Goes to a hood pin you install under the hood, here Is the custom mount I did for mine You can use the oem hood pin under the hood black /yellow trace Even better, you're so helpful!

[Picture coming in the next few days]

You will also have to run wires up to you dome light for the controller antenna where you can hide the module in there. I attached it to my ceiling above my passenger side of the dome light.Doing this will decrease range, dei's stupid antenna design now had the programming plug and led light on the antenna I think a mile range is pretty ridiculous, I would rather decrease it some. But thanks for the concern.

[Picture coming in the next few days]

Of course all my connections are soldered and heat shrunk on. I pulled each pin out one by one and used a razor to cut away the wire insulation and wrapped the alarm wire around the Volvo wire and soldered it, then slipped a piece of head shrink on the end, lighter and reinstall the pin into the plug.

[Picture coming in the next few days]

I also bought a glass break sensor module and 2 window modules that I will be getting next week so that I can add them onto this write up for those that want to roll their windows up as they get out of their cars. They also add 1 touch to every window.
All components going in for a security system should be done at the same time to minimize the spaghetti(wires running everywhere) All my wires are all tucked in the same loom, I am just going to mount the glass break sensor somewhere else, so I kept it out, again, thanks for the concern!

Hopefully this guide will help those people out on the fence about doing it themselves.

Thank you for all the help, Helpy Mchelperson. But I feel that all your concerns are addressed in my install, and I didnt mean to touch such a nerve with you, but I am glad you are trying to help others following my guide. I will be adding and changing this guide quite a bit in the next week, I just wanted to put a rough draft up cause it was late and I wanted to go to bed.

[Mesoam]

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 08:01 AM, said:

and have watched Pras run his car up a curb and almost into a side of a building showing off his remote start to me and left the car in gear, I decided I really didn’t need a remote start here in southern California

lets not forget about Hussein

[Ghost Shadow]

To all future readers of this thread, don't do it based on this "write up". It surely is not a write up by all means.

This simple alarm job consists of 9 simple wires. That its complicated by the fact that the OP wants you to pull pins out and shrink it.

Dude you do what ever you want to your car, but don't tell people the wrong thing to do. You can't put up a post because you want it to be a place holder and pictures will come later. WTF is that? Your anal retentive instal is borderline insane. Yet you insist you can do it better than me. You nave no experience in this field. You can call me whatever you want, I actually know what the hell I am taking about

[Jaxx]

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 05:00 PM, said:

Parking Light Output (+) Yellow block, Blue plug, Pin 8, White wire How do you get the headlights to stop flashing when the alarm goes off, its killing my HIDz This is parking lights only, you headlights wont flash, but thanks for asking

you'll find out he's right about this soon enough. Because of the circuitry with volvo's bulb out warning lamp in the cluster, you need to wire up this with a relay otherwise it will feedback into the headlight relay and turn them on.


Good luck. I guess I could post up my wire harness notes for my 5701 install sometime this week.

[Vagabond]

OPs post makes it more laborious than required without much better outcome, IMO.

Two cents from a guy who installed his Compusar 2 way Remote Start, EZ Go, RPS etc etc recently.

Also, I found it easy enough to remove the three bolts for the knee bolster and tuck my stuff above it.

[Ghost Shadow]

how do you like the ezgo?

i think its a neat little piece like the touch RPS.

I will be heading out for dinner with the Compustar National Sales Director next week at CES to give him feed back and things we would like to see out in the field.


One of the major reasons i love their products.

You cant do this with the DEI Holdings Group aka viperpython/avital/clifford ect ect people. Small independants like me (under $250k in sales, I only do $75k with compustar) dont get a voice with them. thats why they so far behind the curve. there are tons of guys out there like me under $75k in sales, thats the bulk of their people.

BTW OP this week's jobs:
Monday:
2010 accord starter/keyless/transponder
2011 accord crosstour starter/keyless/transponder

tuesday
2010 toyota tundra hornblasters airhorn with drone mobile/starter/transponder and horns to be controlled thru drone app to HOOONK on aux 1
2006 suzuki forneza alarm/ keyless/ trunk pop

Wednesday
2011 kia soul starter/keyless/drone
2012 nissan rouge starter/keyless/transponder INTEL-KEY

Thursday
2012 honda pilot starter/keyless/transponder
2011 honda crv pioneer avic x930bt, camera/ steerign wheel controls/ sirius

Today is going to be a busy one for me,
2002 dodge ram starter/keyless
2001 dodge durnago starter/keyless
2006 suzuki forenza alarm/keyless YES ANOTHER ONE, we did 1 since they first came out and now two in 1 week!!!

and whatever else walks in and i can do.

[Vagabond]

EZ go is a must have so is the RPS.

I'm an account rep and travel everday for work. So not fumbling for my keys when I'm carrying all my gear is nice. They RPS made me feel comfortable setting the auto relock without the fear of lockling my keys in the car.

The drone mobile feature is just baller. All in all you cant go wrong with a Compustar install.

It took about 5 hours start to finish at a leasurely pace which included:

Prepping the wires
Reading over the diagrams multiple times
Taking apart the trim for the first time
routing the atennaes and tucking them into the liner
lunch
finind a way to mount to unit
wiring into the harness
replacing the trim
realizing i forgot to plug in the shock sensor and rps
mounting the rps
programing
etc.

First time doing it.

I would have done a how to, but its strait forward.

[Ghost Shadow]

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 05:00 PM, said:

First let me say Thank you Ghost Shadow. I am sure you are trying to help even if it came off a little harsh

I am helping others on the forum to tell them to NOT take your advice. Not trying to be harsh or anything of the sort.

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 05:00 PM, said:

Ground (-)Tap any black wireUse a ring terminal and a self tapping screw and make your own new ground, PRO's would find a good ground first. I found an unused ground in a spare plug mentioned above, Ive never seen a factory wire harnesses using ring connectors? Wonder why?

You have never seen any because you never seen under any other car besides your Pristine 1996 Volvo 850
Pictures as promised
2006 Suziki Forenza and 2002-2008 Dodge ram pick up ring terminals as promised from today

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 05:00 PM, said:

Parking Light Output (+) Yellow block, Blue plug, Pin 8, White wire How do you get the headlights to stop flashing when the alarm goes off, its killing my HIDz This is parking lights only, you headlights wont flash, but thanks for asking

In all 94-97 850's, 98-00 S/V70 and 98-04 C70's the parking lights will flash the headlamps, a relay is required to stop this.

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 05:00 PM, said:

Hood Pin Goes to a hood pin you install under the hood, here Is the custom mount I did for mine You can use the oem hood pin under the hood black /yellow trace Even better, you're so helpful!

Your write up should have included this

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 05:00 PM, said:

[Picture coming in the next few days]

it has been a few weeks still no pictures LOL

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 05:00 PM, said:

Hopefully this guide will help those people out on the fence about doing it themselves.

Thank you for all the help, Helpy Mchelperson. But I feel that all your concerns are addressed in my install, and I didnt mean to touch such a nerve with you, but I am glad you are trying to help others following my guide. I will be adding and changing this guide quite a bit in the next week, I just wanted to put a rough draft up cause it was late and I wanted to go to bed.

i have written DIY/How to's and i post it AFTER i am done with pictures to back it up.

I also did a walk in today for a remote start in a 2010 dodge avenger.

[Che'_Moderator]

That ground is aweful. Its first pic I saw so I feel the need to comment. You needed to take the paint off then terminate it, followed by primer and undercoat. But anyways.

All I got out of this was blah blah blah

Ghost Shadow, on 06 January 2012 - 07:58 PM, said:

Sorry if that comment offended you, but I believe my alarm install, even though it took much longer then a pro would take, is better then any you would do yourself at your shop.

Then I LOLed.

[Ghost Shadow]

Che, on 06 January 2012 - 08:28 PM, said:

That ground is aweful. Its first pic I saw so I feel the need to comment. You needed to take the paint off then terminate it, followed by primer and undercoat. But anyways.

All I got out of this was blah blah blah



Then I LOLed.

Chuck, those are FACTORY ring terminals and FACTORY connections. I did not install them. OP said you never see ring terminals from the factory in any cars.

[Che'_Moderator]

Ghost Shadow, on 06 January 2012 - 08:37 PM, said:

Chuck, those are FACTORY ring terminals and FACTORY connections. I did not install them. OP said you never see ring terminals from the factory in any cars.

Still awful. Ford does crap like that all the time. The have like 5 circuits on a common ground to the back of the door in the explorer. Headlights, door locks, and something else that makes 0 sense ends up there. In FL the last about two years before the humidity causes them to become intermediate. You are correct though. Lots of american cars terminate wires that way

[Ghost Shadow]

chuck, the OP suggested that people just tie to any ole ground. well i dodge's, they use one wire and depending on ohm's like 480 will do a oem alarm arm and lock, 1500ohm will do disarm and unlock, 980ohm will do a low beam parking light. Now using his way to do things, a direct ground on the door lock wire will make the whole system useless!

[850T5M]

Anyone wanna share how to make the headlights stop flashing with the park lights? I understand i need a relay, but where does it go? Lol
Thanks

[Ghost Shadow]

850T5M, on 07 January 2012 - 06:28 AM, said:

Anyone wanna share how to make the headlights stop flashing with the park lights? I understand i need a relay, but where does it go? Lol
Thanks

i can, but the OP says he know more than me and can install better than i can ever do LOL.

YES i can, i an also provide pictures RIGHT NOW, not a promise for a few days later LOL
Pull the light switch out, You should have a white wire that goes 12volt when you turn the switch on, most likely there are two of them. about 2 inches in, cut it in half

Go buy, beg, steal how ever you get one....A decent quality DPDT (double pole double throw) relay, easiest if you get one of these harness too

Connect 87 to a constant 12v
connect 85 to negative
connect 86 to your positive parking light trigger from alarm
connect 87a to the switch side of the cut white wire
connect 30 to the car side of the white wire

BTW all your connections will be done at the OEM light switch, all necessary connections are there.

Pictures as promised LOL


CHUCK, can we change the topic? Its a thorn in my side when someone says they doing like a pro when it surely is NOT?

[850T5M]

Beautiful! Thank you very much, i will give this a shot as soon as it gets a little warmer outside.
Where can i find a harness like that? Looks simpler than welding on the relay pins.

[Ghost Shadow]

850T5M, on 07 January 2012 - 06:33 PM, said:

Beautiful! Thank you very much, i will give this a shot as soon as it gets a little warmer outside.
Where can i find a harness like that? Looks simpler than welding on the relay pins.

here http://www.ebay.com/...=item1e6917bcdb
you can actually do this inside the car with it running LOL

all you need is a test light, a solder iron, some GOOD quality tape, dont solder onto the relay, this may cause the relay to break from excessive heat from the solder iron.

[Ghost Shadow]

Aequitas_Veritas, on 30 December 2011 - 05:00 PM, said:

Ground (-)Tap any black wireUse a ring terminal and a self tapping screw and make your own new ground, PRO's would find a good ground first. I found an unused ground in a spare plug mentioned above, Ive never seen a factory wire harnesses using ring connectors? Wonder why?

Daily update on ring terminals NOT used in OEM applications!

Here's one in a *cough* volvo