34 replies to this topic

[raysv70]

I am new to this forum and not sure if I am posting this in the correct location, but here goes. I have a 1998 v70, and if it;s cold out in the low 30's and I try to start the car, it will start and then die. If I wait 2 minutes and try again it will start and stay running. This procedure worked for me all last year, no matter what the outside temp was, I would start it, it would die, I would wait (2) minutes and start it and it would run fine. I live in Chicago, so needless to say, it was cold. This year the symptoms changed, If the temp drops into the lower 20's it will not stay running. I brought it in twice to the mechanic both times he had the issue happen but the temperature went up into the 30's and he couldn't get it to fail again.
any thoughts.

[Keaton85]

Any check engine light? And does your temp gauge read correctly after running?

[raysv70]

The check engine light was on, the mechanic said all he saw on the codes were some mis-fires. The temp gauge seems to read correctly

[okoye]

ive been having similar problems on my xc70

[Keaton85]

I bet you have really bad spark plugs. When it's cold the amount of fuel that is getting dumped in just kills your spark. But on the second start you have some of the fuel that cleared out. Those misfires are not something to ignore!

That's just a guess but you have to start somewhere. Have you ever replaced the plugs, wires, cap/rotor?

[raysv70]

I was thinking plugs and wires also, but the mechanic said they appear to be good. I can't recall,but I think I got new plugs and wires around 20K a-go when I had the timing belt replaced. How long should plugs last?

[Keaton85]

It depends on what type were used. Was the cap and rotor replaced at the same time?

I think you should drive for a bit and then check to see what codes are actually be stored. Post them on here and that will help.

[raysv70]

My mistake I checked the paperwork from the timing belt replacement, and we didn't get new plugs or wires. I might take your advice and replace wires and plugs. Someone once told me I need to replace with volvo wires??? Whats your opinion. and should I also replace cap/rotor at the same time?
Thanks

[Keaton85]

That's your issue then, you need to go over and do a complete stage-0 of your vehicle.

Wire: Bougicord, or better is Kingsborne which is what IPD rebrands and sells (Link)
Plugs: Volvo, or you can try NGK if you would like as ive had good luck with them but Volvo is a safe bet
Cap/Rotor: Bosch

The wires last a lot longger then the plugs and cap/rotor. The cap/rotor/plugs are 30K mile parts in my opinon, but that changes depending on parts used and what vehicle.

Also replace or check:
Air filter
PCV system (if turbo replace it, if N/A remove flame trap)
ATF

[raysv70]

Thanks
One last question, and one Observation.
Question
What is a "complete stage-0 of your vehicle".
Observation
Your zip tie is quite Large

[Keaton85]

http://volvospeed.co...o-searchhow-to/

It's pretty much what I listed for you, as the items that I listed are a must do. Since they will have the largest influence on your vehicles (since your timing belt was already done, I kept that off the list)

haha as for zip ties, they come in handy when doing the PCV system, as long as you use 185 degree rated ones. Not cheap-o dollar bin ones...

[BEJinFBK]

please delete, on 30 December 2011 - 06:57 PM, said:

haha as for zip ties, they come in handy when doing the PCV system, as long as you use 185 degree rated ones. Not cheap-o dollar bin ones...

Not just +1...

HELLA Plus 1 Maximus!
I really hate it when they snap in half when you snug'em down.
Especially when it's a one hand reach that's a PITA in the first place.

"Ty-Rap" Brand from Thomas & Betts - Accept No Substitute.
Look for the Stainless Steel tang wherever you shop for Ty-Raps!

 TY-529MX.jpg   23.79K   3 downloads
http://www.tnb.com/p...gi?part=TY529MX
Virgin nylon, UV rated, 120 lb test, -40 to 185 F
( And this bad boy is a 30" unit... )

[Smithwicks]

Fuel pump relay?

[Keaton85]

unlikly....

[raysv70]

What I don't get is, why it starts when it's fairly cold in the 30's, but will not start when it's in the 20's???

[Keaton85]

Well, you have to start somewhere. Having a misfire code tells me that your ignition system is shot.

If you start with that then you can go from there, as you need to replace those items regardless of this issue.

[raysv70]

I replaced plugs and wires, still won't start when in the low 20's. Brought it to a Mechanic, he said the rotor and cap looks good, and he said it looks like the immobilizer. Not sure if I agree, I am now thinking fuel pump relay. Does anyone know the symptons of a bad immobilizer?

[Keaton85]

idono how the immobilier would effect this.

Sorry the plugs and wires didnt work out, but alteast you can rule that out and they probably needed to be done. Strange that he said the cap/rotor were ok when it seems it's been a while since those have been replaced.

As for the fuel pump relay, you can take it out and then remove the cover on the relay itself. Once you have it stripped down you can look to see if it's bad by either bulged capacitors or resistors/diodes that have sagged down the board. Pretty easy to tell if it's bad.

[raysv70]

Thanks

[the commissar!]

Is it possible your battery is getting tired and contributing to this problem? Also, you might try cleaning the battery contacts and the grounds.

Are you still getting misfire codes?

It is difficult to "see" if a cap and rotor are ok or not unless they display some physical damage...for the <$30 in parts, I'd change them if they are that old...

and tell me your doing all this yourself, it is real simple stuff/no need to pay a mechanic for this.