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#1 s_moneh

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 09:45 AM

i'm not entirely sure if i should be worried or not, but i seem to get lots of condensation in my catch can, ever since it got below freezing temps. with maybe a low of -6 deg celcius.

heres a pic of what came out of my can about 2ish weeks ago:

Posted Image

(this can is rouglhy 12 inches in height and i believe 3-3.5 inches in diamater)

here is where i stand currently:

Posted Image

it's got a filter roughly maybe .5 inches bigger then the one pictured on the very top ( yes i know it should be bigger but its wat i got for now)
and on that little nipple on the side i supplied a second filter where u can see the ice forming. it seems that the can fills up quick then leaks out there and creates ice. should i be worried?

i'm at that point where i just want to run a tube all the way from the drain plug just to the ground so it just empties itself in the winter and i wont have to worry about it back filling or anything. thoughts? this a good idea? not sure on my next move for this
1997 854 T5M - Megasquirt 2Extra with COP, Sconemans Intake Kit, Sconemans short shift kit, K&N Panel Filter, poly engine mounts/poly control arm bushings, delrin solid subframe bushings,prosport; boost, oil pres gauges, AEM wideband, OBX Turboback, 16T, D2 Racing coilovers, HKS SSQV4 BOV with BP, FMIC w/ 2.5" piping, 213 Fuse Mod, R manifold, NA 3" throttle body w/ 960 plate, NA cams, lgspeed rods, wiseco 81.5mm pistons, newer style oil cooler, green giants, 4bar fuel regulator,28mm rear ipd sway, 25mm front ipd sway, 17x7.5 BBS Propus C's, tons more mods

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#2 lookforjoe

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 01:39 PM

Much more condensate in colder weather. Drain the can more frequently. If you let it get to the point where the vent is restricted due to freezing, then you will run the risk of excessive CC pressure. Get a filter such as the Moroso 68815, which has an 1 3/8" inlet.

I'm looking at ways to increase the capacity of my drain can, simply because as the temp has dropped, the increase in condensate volume is creating more vapor, which I dislike smelling.
I still have a vacuum draw on the breather system, because it helps reduce the vapor @ idle - my problem is that I don't have a vac port at the far end of the intake where the vac seems to be stronger than @ the TB - at least that's Volvo's rationale for placing it there, and it seems to be true.
I may hook up a small vacuum pump to maintain vacuum on the breather @ idle & draw the condensate vapor off & vent it behind the engine bay, to minimize vapor being drawn into the cabin.
Posted Image
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#3 dublin14

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 02:30 PM

View Posts_moneh, on 31 December 2011 - 09:45 AM, said:

i'm not entirely sure if i should be worried or not, but i seem to get lots of condensation in my catch can, ever since it got below freezing temps. with maybe a low of -6 deg celcius.

heres a pic of what came out of my can about 2ish weeks ago:

Posted Image

(this can is rouglhy 12 inches in height and i believe 3-3.5 inches in diamater)

here is where i stand currently:

Posted Image

it's got a filter roughly maybe .5 inches bigger then the one pictured on the very top ( yes i know it should be bigger but its wat i got for now)
and on that little nipple on the side i supplied a second filter where u can see the ice forming. it seems that the can fills up quick then leaks out there and creates ice. should i be worried?

i'm at that point where i just want to run a tube all the way from the drain plug just to the ground so it just empties itself in the winter and i wont have to worry about it back filling or anything. thoughts? this a good idea? not sure on my next move for this

Andre why are driven that thing in the winter :P I thought u were putting it away.
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#4 nvr70

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 02:35 PM

Whatever happened to the "winter beater" you had bought?
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#5 s_moneh

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 04:36 PM

View Postlookforjoe, on 31 December 2011 - 01:39 PM, said:

Much more condensate in colder weather. Drain the can more frequently. If you let it get to the point where the vent is restricted due to freezing, then you will run the risk of excessive CC pressure. Get a filter such as the Moroso 68815, which has an 1 3/8" inlet.

I'm looking at ways to increase the capacity of my drain can, simply because as the temp has dropped, the increase in condensate volume is creating more vapor, which I dislike smelling.
I still have a vacuum draw on the breather system, because it helps reduce the vapor @ idle - my problem is that I don't have a vac port at the far end of the intake where the vac seems to be stronger than @ the TB - at least that's Volvo's rationale for placing it there, and it seems to be true.
I may hook up a small vacuum pump to maintain vacuum on the breather @ idle & draw the condensate vapor off & vent it behind the engine bay, to minimize vapor being drawn into the cabin.

would u recommend just adding a tube at the bottom so it constantly empties itself? i really dont want to keep taking it out and screwing the drain plug to drain it, this way i just goes on its own? i hope it didn't do anything bad, although i beleive it shouldnt have. i will however swat to a bigger filter

View Postdublin14, on 31 December 2011 - 02:30 PM, said:

Andre why are driven that thing in the winter :P I thought u were putting it away.

didn't find a garage in time or a beater, moneys tight to so gotta make compromises!

View PostR855, on 31 December 2011 - 02:35 PM, said:

Whatever happened to the "winter beater" you had bought?

i never bought anything, money got too tight!
1997 854 T5M - Megasquirt 2Extra with COP, Sconemans Intake Kit, Sconemans short shift kit, K&N Panel Filter, poly engine mounts/poly control arm bushings, delrin solid subframe bushings,prosport; boost, oil pres gauges, AEM wideband, OBX Turboback, 16T, D2 Racing coilovers, HKS SSQV4 BOV with BP, FMIC w/ 2.5" piping, 213 Fuse Mod, R manifold, NA 3" throttle body w/ 960 plate, NA cams, lgspeed rods, wiseco 81.5mm pistons, newer style oil cooler, green giants, 4bar fuel regulator,28mm rear ipd sway, 25mm front ipd sway, 17x7.5 BBS Propus C's, tons more mods

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#6 project_850

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 02:08 AM

Posted Image
This was my solution...
Posted Image
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#7 s_moneh

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 02:35 PM

i need me somthing like that^^^ somthing easier to get at
1997 854 T5M - Megasquirt 2Extra with COP, Sconemans Intake Kit, Sconemans short shift kit, K&N Panel Filter, poly engine mounts/poly control arm bushings, delrin solid subframe bushings,prosport; boost, oil pres gauges, AEM wideband, OBX Turboback, 16T, D2 Racing coilovers, HKS SSQV4 BOV with BP, FMIC w/ 2.5" piping, 213 Fuse Mod, R manifold, NA 3" throttle body w/ 960 plate, NA cams, lgspeed rods, wiseco 81.5mm pistons, newer style oil cooler, green giants, 4bar fuel regulator,28mm rear ipd sway, 25mm front ipd sway, 17x7.5 BBS Propus C's, tons more mods

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#8 lookforjoe

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 02:55 PM

^ easy enough to do - just get plumbing 3/8" NPT fittings & either use a hose or rigid line to drop down through the belly pan & add the drain valve.

Or, put the drain valve on the bottom of the can so you can access it from under the hood, and run hose off of that down through the pan...
Posted Image
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#9 854TGA+

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 07:14 PM

You think that's not going to be an issue at -25c in Toronto?

Snow/ice/slush/salt???
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#10 Canadianplat855

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 07:36 PM

View Post854TGA+, on 02 January 2012 - 07:14 PM, said:

You think that's not going to be an issue at -25c in Toronto?

Snow/ice/slush/salt???

Just put the ball valve on the can and run the hose down. Thats how mine is.

#11 s_moneh

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 03:51 AM

View Postlookforjoe, on 02 January 2012 - 02:55 PM, said:

^ easy enough to do - just get plumbing 3/8" NPT fittings & either use a hose or rigid line to drop down through the belly pan & add the drain valve.

Or, put the drain valve on the bottom of the can so you can access it from under the hood, and run hose off of that down through the pan...

i currently have a drain actually, it consists of just a screw so i have to go underneith and unscrew the screw in order to create a hole and let the water come out, its really a PITA because my FMIC piping goes right underneith it, come summer i'll be moving that somewhere else and doing a valve such as above

View Post854TGA+, on 02 January 2012 - 07:14 PM, said:

You think that's not going to be an issue at -25c in Toronto?

Snow/ice/slush/salt???

are you reffering to the valve itself as project_850 has? or the whole water in the can at -25c?

View PostCanadianplat855, on 02 January 2012 - 07:36 PM, said:

Just put the ball valve on the can and run the hose down. Thats how mine is.

this will be accomplished



in the end a little update, i'm going bigger with everything
picked up a

1 1/2 ID filter
and will be swapping all the hoses and fittings to 5/8 ID hose i think bigger is better to get the flow down and really let the sucker breathe.

seeing how fast my can fills up a red cup like above, its almost insane like no joke 2 weeks and i can fill that cut to the brim now as it got colder, i just emptied mine out today and filled it to the brim

heres a comparison of what i'm fabbing up tommorow

Posted Image

that top k&n filter used to be red, i believe its clogged so i left it there and added that secondary filter just for kicks, i'll be removing that nipple and welding the hole shut, then swapping the small nipples to accept the bigger filter and the 5/8 ID hose



any otherr recomendations? should i weld the nipple higher? any other changes i should make? how much baffle should i have? i have a bout 4 of those dish cleaning steel things all stretched out and packed in the can itself
1997 854 T5M - Megasquirt 2Extra with COP, Sconemans Intake Kit, Sconemans short shift kit, K&N Panel Filter, poly engine mounts/poly control arm bushings, delrin solid subframe bushings,prosport; boost, oil pres gauges, AEM wideband, OBX Turboback, 16T, D2 Racing coilovers, HKS SSQV4 BOV with BP, FMIC w/ 2.5" piping, 213 Fuse Mod, R manifold, NA 3" throttle body w/ 960 plate, NA cams, lgspeed rods, wiseco 81.5mm pistons, newer style oil cooler, green giants, 4bar fuel regulator,28mm rear ipd sway, 25mm front ipd sway, 17x7.5 BBS Propus C's, tons more mods

Posted Image


#12 lookforjoe

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 01:41 PM

Adding the larger filter to the top should help. Using larger lines & ID fittings should also help, since you have no vacuum draw on the breather anymore (I'm assuming the inlet to the can is the vent off the stock breather box that normally goes to the PTC).

The baffling should be between the inlet & the outlet (top) to deflect oil vapors down & around the baffle; that's how the oil/condensate separates from the the vapor in the stock breather design (which works) so if you have screens/baffles inside, they need to be between your breather inlet & filter outlet, not in the lower half of the can - that may be why it's filling so quickly...

This is a sketch of my revised tertiary can - you can see how I baffled it with an internal plate

Posted Image

the inlets are in the top because of my location for the can - it's down between the subframe & frame rail. The old one was unbaffled, and was originally a small eBay CC. In my case, this can is solely to collect the final condensate - the block breather & cam vent into a larger can (with drain back to block) that these two vent lines come from...

Posted Image
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1998 V70 XR M66 PTE6262 BB Built '04 2.3l Block '03 Ported Head EnemY21Cams TurboTuner 710cc Inj, 3" DP back Dual Magnaflow 14834's May 2011 355WHP(@6400rpm) 347WTq(@4400rpm)@22psi Now with LGSpeed Header & Custom Intake Manifold! BIG 31x12x3"FMIC

#13 550

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:30 PM

I had my pre-catch can line freeze last year with some consistent 0 degree days. Thought about adding a small type of electric heater (like the one on the intake pipe) but then just left it vented. ( I had to cut the line in the cold weather at a gas station as I found out the hard way it froze)
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