48 replies to this topic

[boxpin]

Driving me crazy. I am getting..now and then...misfires at high RPMs. Sometimes its subtle other times its very noticeable and throws cels. I can feel the power loss at high rpms. I need help figuring it out.

Problem:
Cels:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304

All cylinder misfires with the exception of the 00, its a multiple misfire .


What I have done:

Change the plugs to OEM Volvo gapped at .026
Replaced the Cap - Bosch
Replaced the rotor - Bosch
Swapped out the MSD Blaster with the OEM coil then back again
Replaced the wires from IPD to OEM then back to IPD
Added a MSD6a then gapped the plugs to .030
ARD blue tune to IPD then back to ARD.

Improvements:
IPD wires typically only threw the P0301 error and one time the P0303.

In general, the car starts and runs fantastic. You would never know there is a problem until you really go.

From the coil to the plug has been replaced or changed out for testing. It must be something else. Could it be the flywheel sensor or cam sensor? This is a problem that has developed over time. It has not always been there. The car used to haul butt. Something is amiss.

[fischmama]

Make sure the wires from the cam and crank sensor are away from the coil wire. I have seen that causing interference and it would misfire.

[Snabb T5M]

Try a smaller gap just to see.

[scumcity14]

Another idea..fuel filter, dirty injectors, or FPR? Just a thought..

This was non volvo, but one of our GM trucks would throw those same codes anytime there was heavy throttle (towing on highway etc..) and after going through all of the same ignition trouble shooting (plugs, coil packs in our case) it turned out to be crap in the injectors/fuel rail..cleaned all injectors and the fuel rails. (we actually had to clean the tanks too, but that's poor GM design in our case)

Edited by scumcity14, 06 January 2012 - 01:12 PM.

[boxpin]

scumcity14, on 06 January 2012 - 01:11 PM, said:

Another idea..fuel filter, dirty injectors, or FPR? Just a thought..

This was non volvo, but one of our GM trucks would throw those same codes anytime there was heavy throttle (towing on highway etc..) and after going through all of the same ignition trouble shooting (plugs, coil packs in our case) it turned out to be crap in the injectors/fuel rail..cleaned all injectors and the fuel rails. (we actually had to clean the tanks too, but that's poor GM design in our case)

Wouldnt I see a lean out on the AFR's?

I need to add that every once in awhile I feel a miss at idle. I have looked at the AFR meter and I go rich for that moment. That would indicate it was a spark loss.

[Snabb T5M]

I had the same after installing the 6A box, using OEM heat range plugs and gapped at .030. Went to the drag strip and got multiple misfires. Regapped the plugs to .026 and misfires gone. When I put the NGK colder plugs back in, I'm going to try the bigger gap again and see maybe perhaps the heat range has something to do with it.

[Gideon35T]

Hmmmm ... Garbage fuel maybe ?

[boxpin]

Gideon35T, on 06 January 2012 - 02:32 PM, said:

Hmmmm ... Garbage fuel maybe ?

Nah, ongoing. Many, many tanks

[Gideon35T]

A failing crank angle sensor or cam angle sensor can cause issues limited to a certain rpm range. Though typically it's an issue at idle and the higher rpms are fine. It sure sounds like spark blowout but that's pretty much been addressed. I wonder if lucky can read the ecu and give you some more info on what the motor is seeing.

[dublin14]

Have you tried another ECU? I would try a fresh set of NGK BKR7Es and just see how that works?

Also disconnect ther MSD 6A , run just the coil and see what happens there.

I guess mised that you tried another ECU already

[boxpin]

dublin14, on 06 January 2012 - 05:32 PM, said:

Have you tried another ECU? I would try a fresh set of NGK BKR7Es and just see how that works?

Also disconnect ther MSD 6A , run just the coil and see what happens there.

ECU - Yes, tried my IPD and ARD
Plugs - BKR7Es where in there before I moved to OEM
MSD6a was added hoping to address the problem, I thought it was blowout (frowned on term but you know what I mean)

[vmaxx]

I've had this issue for a while and it's still ongoing. I check vpcuk.org and read that the knock sensors or maf can be the issue..

http://www.vpcuk.org...ighlight=bloody

I've changed to a new bcs from ipd,
evap canister purge valve (which threw a cel),
bosch fuel filter,
bosch cap/rotor,
bougicord wires,
oem volvo plugs gapped at .028, better when they were incorrectly gapped to .025.
new crank sensor,
ONLY 93 octane from "top tier" companies
MSD coil from ipd
I threw in injector cleaner a long time ago.

I feel it is a fuel issue so a new fpr is what i'll do next, knock sensor upgrade kit costs ~$300 (same $ as the oem ones from teh stealer) might as well upgrade.
Idle is a steady 900rpm.

[vmaxx]

scumcity14, on 06 January 2012 - 01:11 PM, said:

it turned out to be crap in the injectors/fuel rail..cleaned all injectors and the fuel rails.

Noob question, how do you clean the injectors and fuel rails manually??

[boxpin]

I will try the .026 gap suggested by Snabb (#6). I figured with the MSD ignition module that I could open the gap since the spark is so scary strong now.

[Hippicus Rebuildacus]

someone already mentioned that you should check your cam positioning sensor wire in relation to the spark plug wires as this CAN cause interference. I had this issue and I ended up running the cam sensor wire under something to be sure it wouldnt come anywhere close again. Also I want to note that while I was investigating this issue I first thought that the sensor was bad so I decided to take a look. These are very small bolts that keep the cam positioning sensor snugged up and mine were loose like Sasha Gray after a midnight gangbang by the state of California. I could tighten them about 2 full turns with my fingers. This flopping around could have also caused my issues but I am still un-sure. I would just check to make sure that the securing bolts are still tight as with a lot of vibration i can see them working their way out because I am pretty sure no one has ever lok-tite'd these bolts

[boxpin]

Ash Filler, on 06 January 2012 - 07:41 PM, said:

someone already mentioned that you should check your cam positioning sensor wire in relation to the spark plug wires as this CAN cause interference. I had this issue and I ended up running the cam sensor wire under something to be sure it wouldnt come anywhere close again.

I would just check to make sure that the securing bolts are still tight as with a lot of vibration i can see them working their way out because I am pretty sure no one has ever lok-tite'd these bolts

A couple have recommended that and I will check and make an effort to move them regardless.

I have a second flywheel sensor and cam sensor...I could swap them both out???

[Gideon35T]

Swap 1 at a time then try. No use potentially making things more complicated.

[broken041]

I had a misfire issue, sometimes a gentle surging, other times it would act like it stalled under wot. Lifting the foot just off of the floor gave me back power, but obviously not full power due to keeping the foot off of the floor. Much searching and scratching of my head led me to the air injection pump being full of water. No wonder the air filter had a rust stain. I did the bypass and have not had a problem since. Just a thought.

[boxpin]

broken041, on 06 January 2012 - 10:46 PM, said:

I had a misfire issue, sometimes a gentle surging, other times it would act like it stalled under wot. Lifting the foot just off of the floor gave me back power, but obviously not full power due to keeping the foot off of the floor. Much searching and scratching of my head led me to the air injection pump being full of water. No wonder the air filter had a rust stain. I did the bypass and have not had a problem since. Just a thought.

Its a 95 w/egr...no pump. You had my attention though. Your description is excellent.

[fastwagonhawaii]

MAF, when was it changed or checked last. If it was fuel you wouldn't get misfires you would just loose power. If like you said everything is new or has been checked. the maf would be where I look.